Oil filter

wenied · **Joined:** Wed Dec 21, 2005 4:01 pm **Posts:** 107

The stupid fram web site gives the number for the wrong filter. They say use an 8316. It would screw on but it's about half the length of the mopar filter. For future reference....I went to o'reilleys and got a wix filter number 51516. Works like a charm.

So for anyone interested in wix..the filter number is 51516.

Who hooo!! My wife's crd has had it's first oil change..I used shell rotella full syn..5w40. Even at only 2000 miles on the engine that oil looked terrible..I've never seen oil from a diesel though.

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 01, 2006 4:05 pm

I just purchased a Puralator Pure One (PN PL25230) and Mobil1 0w40 and will be changing the oil next weekend. After the next oil change I will be sending the oil into Blackstone to see how everything is holding up....

BTW, where'd you get your Rotella? AAP only had 15w40

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sun Jan 01, 2006 4:17 pm

wenied wrote:

The stupid fram web site gives the number for the wrong filter. They say use an 8316. It would screw on but it's about half the length of the mopar filter. For future reference....I went to o'reilleys and got a wix filter number 51516. Works like a charm.

So for anyone interested in wix..the filter number is 51516.

Who hooo!! My wife's crd has had it's first oil change..I used shell rotella full syn..5w40. Even at only 2000 miles on the engine that oil looked terrible..I've never seen oil from a diesel though.

Welcome to one of the first mistakes a person new to diesel does is change the oil way to soon because it was so "dirty" or black. That is normal, you have a problem if it does not get looking like that in a 100 miles or less. Actually most will look like that 5 minutes after starting. The oil was easly good for 10,000 to 12,000 miles and you just wasted a bunch of money. Only do the 3000 miler oil change if you are running a non synthetic diesel oil. If using a synthetic diesel oil then 10,000 mile oil changes are no problem. Been doing that in my diesels for years.

Taz · **Posted:** Sun Jan 01, 2006 5:40 pm

RTStabler51 wrote:

I just purchased a Puralator Pure One (PN PL25230) and Mobil1 0w40 and will be changing the oil next weekend. After the next oil change I will be sending the oil into Blackstone to see how everything is holding up....

BTW, where'd you get your Rotella? AAP only had 15w40

The 5W40 is Rotella T Full Synthetic. Its hard to find in MN. I did find it a Walmart though in gallon Jugs. I would look at the Rotella T Full Synthetic rather than the Mobil 1, The Rotella T is designed for US diesel fuel that has a lot of sulfer in it. Not sure what the Mobil 1 was designed for, maybe European cars. If you like Mobil 1 you could use Mobil Delvac 1 5W40. Its also much better at handling the sulfer in our fuel.

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 01, 2006 5:51 pm

Taz, the Mobil1 I bought is what the manual recommends and what others I've seen here said works too. Later at Wal-Mart I saw the Truck & SUV Mobil1, which I'll try next time. The only Rotella T I could find at the time was 15w40....

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sun Jan 01, 2006 5:54 pm

The Delvac 1 is also supperior to the Rotella but that a different discussion for a different time and place. The Delvac 1 is also packaged as Mobil 1 Truck & SUV 5w-40 synthetic oil and commonly found in Wal-Mart and auto parts stores. It all about where the two are sold Delvac 1 is mainly sold at truck centers. It's also under Catapiller brand as Cat synthetic 5w-40 oil and both those places sell it a lot cheaper then the truck centers sell Delvac 1. Funny thing is Delvac 1300 is common to Wal-Mart also for some reason.

Taz · **Posted:** Sun Jan 01, 2006 6:32 pm

The physical properties of the Mobil 1 Truck and Suv 5W40 are the same as the Delvac 1, which supports that they are the same but for some reason Mobil only puts the CI-4 Plus designation on the Delvac 1, could be marketing or a slightly different additive package. The CI-4 Plus designation is signifigant in that it has better ash and soot handling than than CI-4 which is important for EGR equipped Diesels. The Shell Rotella T Full synthetis is also CI-4 Plus rated. The Mobil 1 0W40 is basically a gasoline engine oil, it does have a CF rating which is the lowest rating for diesel oil.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sun Jan 01, 2006 8:01 pm

Taz wrote:

The physical properties of the Mobil 1 Truck and Suv 5W40 are the same as the Delvac 1, which supports that they are the same but for some reason Mobil only puts the CI-4 Plus designation on the Delvac 1, could be marketing or a slightly different additive package. The CI-4 Plus designation is signifigant in that it has better ash and soot handling than than CI-4 which is important for EGR equipped Diesels. The Shell Rotella T Full synthetis is also CI-4 Plus rated. The Mobil 1 0W40 is basically a gasoline engine oil, it does have a CF rating which is the lowest rating for diesel oil.

All true, the 0w-40 was special designed for gassers to prevent sludging and opne of those properties is the ability to hold soot in the suspended in oil and yes gasser produce soot also as all combustion does.

Mobil use to publish the spec sheet for both and they were identical. Just checked the Mobil website for T&SUV and T&SUV carries CI-4 and the Product data sheets are the same as Delvac 1 and can be checked at these links. They are the same, but Mobil doesn't want the truckers buying at Wal-Mart I guess.

Reggie · **Posted:** Sun Jan 01, 2006 11:21 pm

Funny thing is that I can't find Mobil 1 Truck & SUV at the Wall-of-China-Marts here in Houston. I've been checking for over a month at three different stores and none have it in stock. I've even emailed them - not that it will do much good. Too bad you can't order it online and pick it up at the store. Looks like it is Autozone for me.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2006 12:18 am

Katrina messed up Mobils package supplier (the plastic jugs) and they are just now starting to catch up. This has been a problem all over the US to various degrees.

crdawg · **Joined:** Mon Sep 12, 2005 10:55 pm **Posts:** 98

I used the same combo of wix filter and rotella oil.we always used wix on our diesel with good results and always used rotella oil also. never had a problem with either one.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2006 2:54 am

If Wally World doesn't have Mobil 1 TSUV or Rotella 5W40, try Tractor Supply Company. They have Rotella T 5W40 in gallon jugs, within a dollar of Wal Mart's price in my area. They also carry Power Service white and silver bottle, and PS Lube Oil Extender.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Mon Jan 02, 2006 1:34 pm

Also any Cat dealer will have the Cat brand Synthetic 5w-40 and it is same as D1 & T & SUV synthetic oil. Don't know about pricing though, could be a bargin.

wenied · **Joined:** Wed Dec 21, 2005 4:01 pm **Posts:** 107

Old Navy, I'm aware that the oil was still good at 2000 miles. It give me more peace of mind when I do early oil changes. Even though it's probably not necessary now days, I still always do the first oil change early. I'll be putting this CRD on regular 3000 mile oil changes AND using full synthetic.

As for your comment that I wasted alot of money....I really hope you don't consider $28.00 alot of money. I don't think anyone could argue that FRESH oil is not better on an engine so if i want to change it every 1000 miles I will...

:lol:

Reggie · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2006 9:51 am

wenied wrote:

Old Navy, I'm aware that the oil was still good at 2000 miles. It give me more peace of mind when I do early oil changes. Even though it's probably not necessary now days, I still always do the first oil change early. I'll be putting this CRD on regular 3000 mile oil changes AND using full synthetic.

As for your comment that I wasted alot of money....I really hope you don't consider $28.00 alot of money. I don't think anyone could argue that FRESH oil is not better on an engine so if i want to change it every 1000 miles I will...

:lol:

I also change my oil sooner than necessary. I know their is no logic to it as far as wear and tear on the internals of the engine - it just gets me out of the house and into the garage where a man belongs. If I had to choose between hanging pink curtains or changing dark smelly oil, the smelly oil wins every time!

oldnavy · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2006 10:10 am

I understand peace of mind and the hard to change our old habits syndrome. I will say it's better to change early then late. It's just you will be increasing you oil cost by 4 times what would be normal and have all that extra down time, for a well maintained engine to get it to last 350,000 miles doing 12,000 mile changes with proper synthetic oils and filters. I'll be honest with you, as would any good oil engineer would tell you, if changing oil that often you should be using a non synthetic oil as you will get about the same engine life.

But as you say it's your dollar and for your peace of mind then why should we hassle you? We should not and I am far happier you are using 3000 mile changes with a synthetic then 6000 with a non synthetic oil or a non diesel rated oil. So if that is what you want to do then don't get upset with those of us try to get you to "see the error of your ways" they (we) just be oil nuts and just let them rant & rave, they will get over it, if not who cares. Diesel on dude.

oldnavy · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2006 10:16 am

Reggie wrote:

I also change my oil sooner than necessary. I know their is no logic to it as far as wear and tear on the internals of the engine - it just gets me out of the house and into the garage where a man belongs. If I had to choose between hanging pink curtains or changing dark smelly oil, the smelly oil wins every time!

Now that reasoning I can understand. See above posting.

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2006 10:18 am

wenied wrote:

Old Navy, I'm aware that the oil was still good at 2000 miles. It give me more peace of mind when I do early oil changes. Even though it's probably not necessary now days, I still always do the first oil change early. I'll be putting this CRD on regular 3000 mile oil changes AND using full synthetic.

3000 miles is only 1/2 the recommended interval even under 'severe' usage (which most of us qualify for). 12500 is 'normal' for the CRD....

oldnavy · **Posted:** Tue Jan 03, 2006 10:32 am

Actually the 12,000 mile would be normal for an oil like Mobil 1 Truck & SUV @ CI-4, I don't know how well the 0w-40 will hold soot for that range. I would only do the 0w-40 for 6,000 myself, but a CI-4 or CI-4+ oil would easy do 12,000 and probably do just fine at 25,000 miles with a filter change and top off at 12,000 miles in our CRD. I have been doing 10,000 mile oil changes for years with EGR eqipped turbodiesels and all of them are still running.

Heck my old '87 Jeep Cherokee had the oil pan dropped at 227,230 miles this week to replace leaking rear main seal and the oil pan on the inside, so my neighbor says who did the repair in his garage, was clean as new with no varenish or sluge build up. All it ever had was Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30 winter and 15w-50 summer and I did 7,500 and 10,000 mile oil changes on the car at that time. The neighbor started using non synthetic when the rear seal blew this past summer, he says he put Mobil 1 10w-30 back into it this time. I gave him a hard time for not calling me so I could take pictures, but like he said he was pressed for time and didn't even think about doing that for me.

wenied · **Joined:** Wed Dec 21, 2005 4:01 pm **Posts:** 107

Anyway..lol...the purpose of the post was to tell yall that FRAM has the wrong filter listed.

Oil filter

Who is online