First of all, 95% of the time, it does great. The only things I've noticed is that:

#1- Depending on the load on the transmission when shifting, the particular shift @ around 35 mph is "lurchy". I talked to another guy at a rest area who pulled up with a CRD- said that his does the same thing- but is this just a characteristic of this trans?

#2- pulled into parking lot, shut off the engine. After work, 12 hours later, the engine struggled a bit to move the Jeep. It seemed like it was locked into the wrong gear...but this was in reverse. Wanted to go in the right direction, but just seemed like it was doing it in 5th gear if you know what I mean. Then it seemed to just kick out of it and move fine.

Anyone have any of this happen to you? TIA.

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EHM, ORM

Number one is NORMAL
I'm not sure what your saying in number two Are you trying to back up after setting all day I'm assuming the fluid is at the proper level. Early on in the life of a crd there were some filter problems that didn't have check valves that caused similiar delays. So if your out of warranty I would have both of the filters changed and topped of with new TC+3 fluid (if that's the proper name of it).

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

ATF4+

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

I've experienced a similar sluggishness after the jeep is parked for a longer period or at low temperatures. I think I remember another post about this saying the cause was ATF draining from the TC??? Idling in neutral for a minute alleviates the problem.

The 35mph lurch happens in my 05 as well.

Does the Suncoast solve these problems?

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2005 Dark Khaki CRD Limited
235/70/16 Revos/Yokohama Geolander I/Ts
Magnaflow 12226
OME springs and shocks
GDE Hot tune and Trans. tune

The tc atf contents should not be draining back into the sump because; there is a anti drain back valve on the spin on filter.

So, Ether you don't have the proper fluid level (I've been there), or you have the wrong filter/that is lacking the drain back valve. If it's the latter, it most likely not a huge deal, but if it were mine i'd replace it.

It's not always straightforward to check the atf level, in the morning, after 6+ hours of non operation, it should be at or below the top hole of the cold area. After a nice hot drive, it should be at or below the top hole of the hot level, and obviously, above the bottom hole of the top level.

There are some exceptions.
If when cold the fluid level is above the top hole of the cold level, and when hot it is below the top hole of the hot level, your ok.

If your above the bottom cold when cold and below the bottom hot when hot, that's usually ok, it means your not really hot, yet.

The is part of the reason why oems are moving to dealer only, no dipstick, transmissions. If you overfill a transmission, it can be just as bad, if not worse, than having it empty.

If your adding fluid, go it slowly. 1/4 a qt or less, at a time, give it time. You do not want to overfill it.

I had hesitation to engage in the mornings, and also when stopping it would act like it wanted to bog down, i even had it stall a few times, particularly if on a incline (while coming to a stop). I was nearly 3 quarts low. This has happened to many other people.

If i had to estimate your probably about a quart or perhaps a little over, low. The fluid expands significantly when hot, this taking up more volume, allowing it to operate normally when warm, but act up when cold. hydraulic pressure operates every thing in the transmission. You need pressure to lock, unlock the tc, change gears, etc.

The 35 mph lurch.stumble is odd, but, normal. it gets more interesting with a trans-go shift kit.

Thanks much- you guys always come through with some good ideas. I'll check the fluid today after work when she's still warm.

Prolly plan on changing the fluid with some good AMSoil stuff and a new filter.

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EHM, ORM

At the risk of getting flamed on here, keep in mind that Chrysler calls for ATF +4 for the trans in the CRD. Amsoil syn auto trans fluid is not ATF+4 approved, Amsoil only recommends it for ATF+4 applications. I recently changed my trans fluid and filters, and used Valvoline ATF+4 trans fluid. It took about 6 quarts after dropping the pan and removing the filters.

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In this war of lines, so many have been crossed. Where will it all stop?

2006 Deep Beryl Green CRD Sport *SOLD 1/22/12*
Provent, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Samcos, GDE ECO & TCM Tune, Euro JK TC, Magnaflow Catback
245/70/16 Destination A/T's
Boiler's Radiator Skid Plate
Jeepin' By Al 2.5 inch Adjust-A-Strut Lift, JBA Gen 4.5 UCA's (6/5/10)

I also find it hard to believe that any multispec atf can meet the atf +4 spec
But i don't think that amsoil's multi spec atf will harm our transmissions.

Atf +4 is particularly robust in comparison to previous atf types.