My u-joint by the rear diff was toast. I replaced it but am still getting some vibration.
I marked the position front and rear and lined up when I replaced it.
The only thing I can think of(if it's still the drive shaft) is I may have flipped the flange and the shaft when I put in the new u-joint.
I marked the flange and the diff, but not the flange and the shaft.

Is this a possible cause of vibration?
If so, should I even bother trying to put a hose clamp on it and balancing it the way the manual says?

Or am I stuck redoing this u-joint job?

Or should I just take it some where for better evaluation?

Thanks for any help,
Josh

Could your "vibration" possibly be the dreaded shudder caused by the TC people have had for years?

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Do yourself a favor, take your ds to a professional shop and have it turned and weighted.

I blew out the rear joint on my ds and took out the rear flange with it, replaced it myself, then lost the front ujoint, did that myself, and had excessive vibrations. I had to replace my HARMONIC DAMPENER it was packed with MUD and the rubber was damaged from heat. By then the front yoke was slightly damaged and used it as a core on a new drive shaft.


If i had taken it in and had it spun, they would have found the dampener faulty in the first place. It would have saved me some cash. And a lot of time.

After i got the new dampener and shaft weighted and re maned, i have never felt the ride so smooth, seriously, it made a huge difference. It was smoother than new. Also quieter.

Thanks guys, I have a Suncoast so I think my tc is fine. Thanks again for the tip on the ds Miller. Taking it in tomorrow for just that. I'll have them put on a greasable u-joint on the shaft side too, balance it and hope all I'll need for a while is some suspension parts.

I also picked up some power slot front rotors and green stuff pads. Can't wait to get them on.

Josh

I'll put the sig on future questions

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2006 Sport CRD
Provent-removed, Snorkel Air box, Raycor fuel head/filter,Omega temp. sensor, Fuel pressure gage, Kennedy Lift pump-not working now, fuel cooler Covered, B&M cooler for trans oil, Suncoast TC/ shift kit, 245/70/16 Firestone Destination A/T's, Amzoil& water in the diffs, mobile 1 0w-40, Radiator blanket
Thanks LOST

Hopefully your tech will be smart enough to not allow you to use a greasable joint on your drive shaft.

It's an old argument witch is better. And that depends on you.

The dana/spicer solid cross joints that come stock are EXCELLENT joints.
The seals have done nothing but improve.

In high tq and vib applications I've been told that joints that have fittings in the body, tend to crack there. The guys at east county drive shaft (san diego), told me that they don't see breakage in solid cross style u joints
, whereas with hollow body, they make them good money. They work on big stuff too. If it works, dont fix it :P

I had a vibration at high speed, it turned out to be excessive play at the driveshaft slip yoke. Had the shaft replaced and vibration is gone. One note, I have about 2" of lift and the slip-yoke seemed to be a little over-extended, so I had a mill-wright build me a spacer.

I had a vibration at high speed, it turned out to be excessive play at the driveshaft slip yoke. Had the shaft replaced and vibration is gone. One note, I have about 2" of lift and the slip-yoke seemed to be a little over-extended, so I had a mill-wright build me a spacer.

I have the same issue right now, it is likely I am going to get a slip yoke eliminator.

I now have grease fittings in both u-joints on the rear, and the drive shaft has been balanced.
I would say it's a good idea to get your drive shaft balanced whenever the u-joints are replaced.


Now:

I still have some vibration.

When I coast I get vibration like a wheel bearing, when it shifts up into 2nd it feels like drive train(possibly the shudder), and a little when it shifts up a gear and goes into a low rpm to do it(also possibly the shudder).

I had the wheels/tires balanced

I'm going to:
check for bearing play by pushing/pulling on the tires
check the motor mounts
try some atf shudder fix
replace springs and shocks

Is it possible that bad springs/shocks could be causing the vibrations?
Is it possible that new Rear rotors from O'reily's autoparts are unbalanced and causing the vibrations?


Larry R. Posted: Fri Sep 25, 2009 10:46 pm Post subject:

I had a vibration at high speed, it turned out to be excessive play at the driveshaft slip yoke. Had the shaft replaced and vibration is gone. One note, I have about 2" of lift and the slip-yoke seemed to be a little over-extended, so I had a mill-wright build me a spacer.

Larry,
Did you replace the drive shaft or the transfer case main shaft?

Did you put a spacer between the flange and the rear differential?
(because the slip yoke was not on the t-case main shaft far enough?)
(I would assume the lift would further seperate the yoke and shaft)

Thanks,
Josh

_________________
2006 Sport CRD
Provent-removed, Snorkel Air box, Raycor fuel head/filter,Omega temp. sensor, Fuel pressure gage, Kennedy Lift pump-not working now, fuel cooler Covered, B&M cooler for trans oil, Suncoast TC/ shift kit, 245/70/16 Firestone Destination A/T's, Amzoil& water in the diffs, mobile 1 0w-40, Radiator blanket
Thanks LOST

Josh,

I had the driveshaft replaced under warranty, wish they would have done the output shaft as well. The new driveshaft resolved the issue, but I installed the spacer in between the 4-bolt flange to return the slip-yoke to the original position (warranty was just about up and don't want to have to buy one my self). I am suprised more have not experienced this issue.

Can we possibly get a photo and the dimensions (like thickness) of this spacer? I will get one made up locally but I would need to know about how thick for howmany inches of lift?
thanks glend

I had Sears install my parking brake pads and hardware kit, due to time issues, but also because the brake tech told me the parking brake pads should drag a certain amont to keep the rear brakes from "chattering" and he had this tool that put it to the correct amount of torque/ drag.

ARE THE PARKING BRAKE PADS SUPPOSED TO DRAG?

When I raise the rear end I can spin the wheels but also hear/ feel the drag.

THE SERVICE MANUAL SAYS NO!!!

This Tech was a DC tech for 20 years until, well you can guesS the rest.
He also left the backing plates pinned up against the rotors- which makes for excellent horrifying noise.

I guess I'll get a star tool and back off the parking brake pads until they are free.

That was a wasted $180, some professional.

Any thoughts?

_________________
2006 Sport CRD
Provent-removed, Snorkel Air box, Raycor fuel head/filter,Omega temp. sensor, Fuel pressure gage, Kennedy Lift pump-not working now, fuel cooler Covered, B&M cooler for trans oil, Suncoast TC/ shift kit, 245/70/16 Firestone Destination A/T's, Amzoil& water in the diffs, mobile 1 0w-40, Radiator blanket
Thanks LOST

That tech must like selling parts, did you ask if he was using local weed or imported weed?
If you see him again tell him that dragging brakes contribute to Global Warming

_________________
2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

I hvae a vibration the started this morning. 45 to a stop, vibration under decelleration only, in neutral or drive, it does not matter. I THINK it is the u-joints, I have a new set but I was sick Sunday so I did not get to install them, I can do it tonight though. 107,000+ on it. It should NOT be the TC as that is BRAND NEW with about 4K on it. How much of a mess is this going to be and what should I used to plug the output seal when I yank the shaft out? Thanks

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No longer a CRD or Jeep owner. Selling everything I have, needs to go as I need the room for a project.

That sounds more like a pinion bearing problem if only on decel but no need to worry about any fluids leaking when pulling the rear driveshaft as the rear slip yoke is external and not internal.

Must be the season for u-joints, cause I actually replaced mine this week-end... I did it because of a slight vibration felt at startup, from dead stop then applying throttle, this occuring after I lifted the Jeep. It went away, only to be replaced by a high-speed vibration

I suspect a shaft imbalance (one of the weights has slightly separated from the shaft body), want to try the hose clamp. If that does not cut it, I'll probably head to the transmission shop...

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RIP 10/31/2012
Green Metallic 2006 CRD Limited
GDE Hot tune ~ Pre-F37 TCM ~ Transgo shift kit ~ MagnaFlow ~ Homemade Provent ~ OME 2" lift & Airlift ~ Samco ~ Euro TC ~ Lift pump ~ Nylon fan blade & Hayden clutch ~ Etc!

Thanks for posting something postive, not a pop shot but a truthful thank you. Well at the mileage I have I want to try this first. Also what should a DS balance cost? IF i need a PGB replaced, what should that cost, I do not want to do this because of the shimming of the PGB. I have not done a PGB before and I would rather pay to have it done until I can try one on a broken junk yard IRS diff first.

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No longer a CRD or Jeep owner. Selling everything I have, needs to go as I need the room for a project.

Around here in Colorado balancing a driveshaft is about $50(if you take them just the driveshaft) but then again there is a ultra high demand being a place with alot more rock crawling which does beat up driveshafts pretty good.

Well the front ujoint is rusted. Since both hobby shops on base are closed till Wed, I have to find a shop locally that can press them out for me. Oh well.

_________________
No longer a CRD or Jeep owner. Selling everything I have, needs to go as I need the room for a project.

OK well new joints pressed in and all is good. Plus that clunking noise from coming to a halt is now gone as well. Somewhere in here it was addressed and I did not associate the 2 until I did a test drive.

_________________
No longer a CRD or Jeep owner. Selling everything I have, needs to go as I need the room for a project.