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 Post subject: ROTOR MADNESS
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 10:05 pm 
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I put on my nice new Roto-Tech front rotors and EBC Greenstuff pads last night.
Now my jCeReDp shakes when I brake over 35mph!!!

AutoAnything told me it was no way the rotors and to have Meineke measure them with a lathe. I called back and told them that Meineke said it was warped rotors without even seeing the vehicle.
AutoAnything then asked if I had put the old rotors back on, of coarse no, I worked all day.
Now they are going to get back to me tomorrow with return instructions and my options.

Mean while I still have the parking brakes dragging me down because the brake tech at Sears, a former long time DCJ mechanic, said the parking brake has to drag to keep them from chattering.

AAARRRGGG

So are these rotors warped or what?

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Provent-removed, Snorkel Air box, Raycor fuel head/filter,Omega temp. sensor, Fuel pressure gage, Kennedy Lift pump-not working now, fuel cooler Covered, B&M cooler for trans oil, Suncoast TC/ shift kit, 245/70/16 Firestone Destination A/T's, Amzoil& water in the diffs, mobile 1 0w-40, Radiator blanket
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 29, 2009 10:11 pm 
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Does it shakes when only applying the brakes? Or does it shack all the time?

If it only shakes when applying the brakes it's the rotors,front rotors if felt through the steering wheel,the rear rotors if felt in the vehicle and not the steering wheel.

If it shackes all the time it is not the brakes that are warped,start checking to make sure they where installed correctly amd the wheels are installed correctly.Oh and yes many have messed up the simplest tasks so rechecking to make sure is needed.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 7:06 am 
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Warped Rotors would shake (you would feel it most) when going slower. You say it only shkes when OVER 35...could be a weight fell off wheel (need to rebalance)...your wheel is not mounted completely flush (remove and make sure there is not something like a "ring" around the hub)...or maybe you have a loose front wheel bearing assembly.

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2006 CRD Sport

Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:35 am 
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I'll check the mounting of the wheels. I just had the wheels balanced. Would a loose front wheel bearing have play in it when the wheel is pulled/ pushed on?

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2006 Sport CRD
Provent-removed, Snorkel Air box, Raycor fuel head/filter,Omega temp. sensor, Fuel pressure gage, Kennedy Lift pump-not working now, fuel cooler Covered, B&M cooler for trans oil, Suncoast TC/ shift kit, 245/70/16 Firestone Destination A/T's, Amzoil& water in the diffs, mobile 1 0w-40, Radiator blanket
Thanks LOST


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 11:02 am 
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You also need to check where the rotor inner surface (hub) contacts the axel hub. If it has a piece of crap between these two mating surfaces, the rotor will “wobble” like it is warped.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 11:57 am 
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Also torque tighten the rims as overtightening them can also cause a vibration.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 2:51 pm 
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Well, with all that good advice above...you should have another full day ahead of you ;-)

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2006 CRD Sport

Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 5:29 pm 
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Thanks all,

I rechecked my work, brake install was good, I may have over torqued the wheels so I torqued them at 85ft/lbs. after carefully making sure they and the rotors were flat as they should be.

I am noticing some vibration in the floor and a little steering wheel shake at higher speeds, >65mph.

And I'm still getting alot of shake at medium to hard braking over 35 mph.

Everything up front, like the steering linkage and cv's all seem fine, no play.

I will probably get the wheels balanced again.
And hopefully get new rotors.

I'll report back if I still have an issue after that.

Josh

_________________
2006 Sport CRD
Provent-removed, Snorkel Air box, Raycor fuel head/filter,Omega temp. sensor, Fuel pressure gage, Kennedy Lift pump-not working now, fuel cooler Covered, B&M cooler for trans oil, Suncoast TC/ shift kit, 245/70/16 Firestone Destination A/T's, Amzoil& water in the diffs, mobile 1 0w-40, Radiator blanket
Thanks LOST


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:08 pm 
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Front bearing assemblies are know to cause wheel shake also. They come in an aluminum casing and attach with 3-4 (can't remember now) small bolts.

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Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport

Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 7:06 pm 
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Yeah, I'm gonna put on the new rotors and the Rancho struts and see if that does it. Then I'm going to look at the bearings. They don'y have any play in them, and I thought I didn't hear any noise when I spun the wheels.
Is it just a replace and see if that was it kind of thing at that point?

I also freed the parking brake drag- ah freedom :)

Also AutoAnything is sending me a new set of Roto-Tech rotors.
Pretty happy about that :)
Apparently Roto-Tech said the most common cause of warped rotors that are new is over torqueing. So maybe I did it by tightening the heck out of the wheels(ie without a torque wrench) I shot myself in the foot, again.
They also said it can be manufacture defect, and the way they are stored like on end etc...

Anyone ever warped a rotor by over tightening a wheel???

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2006 Sport CRD
Provent-removed, Snorkel Air box, Raycor fuel head/filter,Omega temp. sensor, Fuel pressure gage, Kennedy Lift pump-not working now, fuel cooler Covered, B&M cooler for trans oil, Suncoast TC/ shift kit, 245/70/16 Firestone Destination A/T's, Amzoil& water in the diffs, mobile 1 0w-40, Radiator blanket
Thanks LOST


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 7:35 pm 
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Did you bed in the pads?

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

- Chris

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:10 pm 
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I have warped rotors doing all kinds of things to include over tightening them. Most of th etime it is from over heating them. I now use DBA rotors and EBC Yellow Stuff pads on the KJ. So far so good only once have I overheated them driving fast.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 11:01 pm 
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jinstall Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 2:10 am Post subject:

I have warped rotors doing all kinds of things to include over tightening them. Most of th etime it is from over heating them. I now use DBA rotors and EBC Yellow Stuff pads on the KJ. So far so good only once have I overheated them driving fast.


Huh,

Wonder in the brake grease I got on the pad face had anythig to do with it.



chrispitude Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 11:35 pm Post subject:
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Joined: 18 Feb 2006
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Location: Saylorsburg, PA
Did you bed in the pads?

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

- Chris



No, but I surely will this time.

_________________
2006 Sport CRD
Provent-removed, Snorkel Air box, Raycor fuel head/filter,Omega temp. sensor, Fuel pressure gage, Kennedy Lift pump-not working now, fuel cooler Covered, B&M cooler for trans oil, Suncoast TC/ shift kit, 245/70/16 Firestone Destination A/T's, Amzoil& water in the diffs, mobile 1 0w-40, Radiator blanket
Thanks LOST


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 12:42 am 
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chrispitude wrote:
Did you bed in the pads?

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

- Chris
my first thought as well...

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2006 Ford F-250 PSD CC FX4
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 1:25 am 
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FormerlyBankNote4x4 wrote:
Thanks all,

I rechecked my work, brake install was good, I may have over torqued the wheels so I torqued them at 85ft/lbs. after carefully making sure they and the rotors were flat as they should be.

I am noticing some vibration in the floor and a little steering wheel shake at higher speeds, >65mph.

And I'm still getting alot of shake at medium to hard braking over 35 mph.

Everything up front, like the steering linkage and cv's all seem fine, no play.

I will probably get the wheels balanced again.
And hopefully get new rotors.

I'll report back if I still have an issue after that.

Josh


It would be rude not to :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 7:00 am 
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Yes bedding in pads is a must.

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No longer a CRD or Jeep owner. Selling everything I have, needs to go as I need the room for a project.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:30 am 
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I will absolutly bed in the pads when I get these new rotors. So are my slightly used EBC Green Stuff pads going to be ok with these new rotors and the bedding in?

_________________
2006 Sport CRD
Provent-removed, Snorkel Air box, Raycor fuel head/filter,Omega temp. sensor, Fuel pressure gage, Kennedy Lift pump-not working now, fuel cooler Covered, B&M cooler for trans oil, Suncoast TC/ shift kit, 245/70/16 Firestone Destination A/T's, Amzoil& water in the diffs, mobile 1 0w-40, Radiator blanket
Thanks LOST


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 2:28 pm 
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FYI- End warped rotors for ever.
http://frozenrotors.com

Just ordered a set of 4 drilled and slotted from them. If you order, order the Frozen Rotors brand as they use factory stuff then freeze em. Makes for head ache free installs as everything is the same size.
You should expect to get on average 3 times the life out of these vs. stock. Their customer service was great. If you call speak with Bill. Very knowledgeable.
Set me back about $540 with shipping for 4.
Ordered Mopar Pads through moparpartsamerica.com.
Waiting on delivery and will update after install.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:03 pm 
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DarbyWalters Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:08 pm Post subject:
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Front bearing assemblies are know to cause wheel shake also. They come in an aluminum casing and attach with 3-4 (can't remember now) small bolts.



Are the front bearing/ hub assemblies not in the FSM?

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2006 Sport CRD
Provent-removed, Snorkel Air box, Raycor fuel head/filter,Omega temp. sensor, Fuel pressure gage, Kennedy Lift pump-not working now, fuel cooler Covered, B&M cooler for trans oil, Suncoast TC/ shift kit, 245/70/16 Firestone Destination A/T's, Amzoil& water in the diffs, mobile 1 0w-40, Radiator blanket
Thanks LOST


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:26 pm 
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FormerlyBankNote4x4 wrote:
Anyone ever warped a rotor by over tightening a wheel???

Yes this is extremely common. You MUST torque the wheels to the proper spec and tighten them gradually. Don't torque each one to spec while the others are loose - tighten them a bit at a time in a star pattern (skip one lug as you move around the hub).

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