Buzzing noise after ignition shut-off...........

buells1 · **Posted:** Sat Oct 10, 2009 9:53 pm

I have a problem with a buzzing noise (appears to be EGR valve) after I shut off the ignition. It buzzes between 5 and 10 seconds. I have 11,000 on my '06 CRD. Help!

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sat Oct 10, 2009 11:44 pm

normal

RJM · **Posted:** Sun Oct 11, 2009 1:26 pm

buells1 wrote:

I have a problem with a buzzing noise (appears to be EGR valve) after I shut off the ignition. It buzzes between 5 and 10 seconds. I have 11,000 on my '06 CRD. Help!

FCV (flow control valve) Buzzing with a click at the end is normal, grinding is not,

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

It is normal, but it should barely be noticable. Our FCV started making a loud buzzing a while back and it was bad. Replace under warrenty.

Uffe · **Posted:** Tue Oct 13, 2009 4:07 am

Possibly caused by a vacuum modulator, mine did it as well. Most likely not EGR since that isn't vacuum operated in the US.

Look behind your airbox for the buzzing when you turn off the car, if it's a little "stick with a filter in the bottom" it's a vacuum modulator, most of them buzz after shutdown.

buells1 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 13, 2009 5:57 am

Uffe wrote:

Possibly caused by a vacuum modulator, mine did it as well. Most likely not EGR since that isn't vacuum operated in the US.

Look behind your airbox for the buzzing when you turn off the car, if it's a little "stick with a filter in the bottom" it's a vacuum modulator, most of them buzz after shutdown.

It seems to be on the left side of the engine. I can actually feel it buzzing when I place my hand on it (the round disk shaped thingy that I think is the flow control valve or FCV).

Thanks,
Kenny

CATCRD · **Posted:** Tue Oct 13, 2009 9:15 pm

buells1 wrote:

Uffe wrote:

Possibly caused by a vacuum modulator, mine did it as well. Most likely not EGR since that isn't vacuum operated in the US.

Look behind your airbox for the buzzing when you turn off the car, if it's a little "stick with a filter in the bottom" it's a vacuum modulator, most of them buzz after shutdown.

It seems to be on the left side of the engine. I can actually feel it buzzing when I place my hand on it (the round disk shaped thingy that I think is the flow control valve or FCV).

Thanks,
Kenny

Do you mean on the driver's side of the engine? A nice clean electrical whine from the FCV is normal for about 10 seconds after shutdown, followed by an audible click where you can hear the butterfly valve come open. When they're bad it'll make an angry buzzing sound or a really weak click because the butterfly is stuck.

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

That's the FCV. If it just started doing it and you didn't notice it prior, or it's much more prominent, it could be bad. I can only hear ours if I listen for it.

dgeist · **Posted:** Thu Oct 15, 2009 10:05 am

CATCRD wrote:

Do you mean on the driver's side of the engine? A nice clean electrical whine from the FCV is normal for about 10 seconds after shutdown, followed by an audible click where you can hear the butterfly valve come open. When they're bad it'll make an angry buzzing sound or a really weak click because the butterfly is stuck.

X2. If you're just hearing prolonged buzzing (and not a nasty grind/click) you might still be okay. That could just be the motor pushing against a suck flapper. The clicking would indicate stripped gears. After you engine is cool (and I mean wait a few hours... I paid for not waiting with a small scar), pop the intercooler hose off the driver's side and you can remove the FCV assembly pretty easily with some metric allen wrenches (don't remember the size). There are four small bolts holding the assembly onto the manifold. The back sides are hard to get to, but not too bad as long as you don't have big hands.

Take the assembly our and inspect the butterfly flapper for gook/carbon buildup. A nice spray with carb or MAF cleaner will loosen things up. Focus on the air chamber and flapper plate/pivot. An old toothbrush helps, too. Avoid spraying into the motor/gear assembly on top as it could damage the plastic gears and or flush out any grease in there. That might save you the cost (or pain of dealing with the dealer) to replace it. After re-assembly, it should behave as listed above.

Dan

BobFarley · **Posted:** Sun Oct 18, 2009 6:08 pm

I have the same problem I think. Mine makes a loud whining noise hard to explain with words. It has done this since I bought it a year ago. The sound seems less noticeable now but I can still hear it. I am under the 7 yr/70,000 mi warranty for about six more months. Should I try to get it replaced before? Does anyone know how much a new one will cost (parts only)?

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Oct 18, 2009 6:23 pm

BobFarley wrote:

I have the same problem I think. Mine makes a loud whining noise hard to explain with words. It has done this since I bought it a year ago. The sound seems less noticeable now but I can still hear it. I am under the 7 yr/70,000 mi warranty for about six more months. Should I try to get it replaced before? Does anyone know how much a new one will cost (parts only)?

Bob.

If the warranty your refering to is the power train warranty then as others have found out it most likely will not be covered. Some have priced the FCM but I don't remember the cost.

tim273 · **Joined:** Mon Nov 23, 2009 1:23 pm **Posts:** 5

I'm having the same buzzing sound (kind of like a fire alarm). My question: Is it drivable until we can get it fixed? If so, how long?

Thanks,
Tim

Glend · **Posted:** Sun Jan 02, 2011 11:21 pm

The bee like buzzing is normal, as long as its followed by the click. There is nothing wrong. I replaced a FCV for a friend and his had stripped the plastic gears and would just go on and on.

tim273 · **Joined:** Mon Nov 23, 2009 1:23 pm **Posts:** 5

It's not a bee like buzzing, it's a loud buzzing that you can hear in the car even with the engine running. It's really loud if I open the hood. I disconnected the connector tonight and the noise went away. Will that be a problem?

Thanks,
Tim

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Jan 03, 2011 12:38 am

The FCV is not an essential component, and letting it fail WILL NOT hurt anything in the engine. Point of fact, I don't believe that if the thing dies it will even cause a CEL, and because it is not part of the powertrain, it will not be covered under warranty.

The part alone is over $400. For the member who has the 06, your CRD only came from the factory with a 3/36, so unless you bought an extended warranty... Having only 11k on your CRD (wow, seriously new truck) doesn't mean you are under warranty. That vehicle timed-out of the factory covers-all warranty. Spending the deductible (if you bought an extended warranty) is not a good idea, b/c you will be risking the dealer screwing something ELSE up, replacing something that is used two times, for no useful purpose: To increase the factory EGR flow even more by choking off the life-giving oxygen your engine needs... And "softening" the engine shutdown by trying to again - choke the intake closed. At shutdown, your engine stops rotating LONG before that thing has a chance to close completely, so it is basically doing nothing at all.

I have been running without mine for many many months - It failed before my vehicle hit 60k, and my CRD is right on the doorstep of 100k.

No CEL, no buzzing from it (which is how I figured out it was dead) but for good measure, I pulled the two screws from the valve flap in the center (big disc) and put it back in. Looks stock, but completely impotent now. :JEEPIN:

Infinite_Karma · **Posted:** Tue Jun 26, 2018 9:22 pm

If you've done the Weeks Kit 1 and 2 (EGR Delete) ... would you still have this buzzing sound in and around that area?

APC9199 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 27, 2018 12:13 pm

No, since the FCV would be removed in that case.

Buzzing noise after ignition shut-off...........

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