LOST JEEPS :: View topic - CRD no-start.... (P0683)

Add the lift pump. It will fix it for good. I accomplished it in an afternoon. Just need to run as much fuel out of the tank as possible before you start.

I have some connector pins if you need them.

...than an air leak. I found the very small air leak I had on the filter head, after I installed my lift pump.

Two simple laws of Physics:
1) Vacuum leak, invisible.
2) Fuel leak visible.

Don't know about you, but my eyes work better with something visible

Agreed, fix the problem first, if there is air in the system you have a leak in a fitting or hose somewhere. Personally I can't understand the argument for lift pumps, we have thousands of VM engine CRDs Wranglers and KJs running around in Australia and not one has a lift pump - its simply not a problem here.

Author:	durangotang [ Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:49 am ]
Post subject:	CRD no-start.... (P0683)
So here I go again... CRD wouldn't start this morning with the same symptoms it had before. Brief summary: crank crank crank crank crank sputter crank crank crank crank sputter etc. Last time I did this I had a suspicion of bad fuel so I changed the fuel filter and it fixed it... bled the line twice since then to try and get every last bubble out. This morning it happened again and I went to bleed the line... nothing came out No air, fuel, nothing. Primed it until something came out and bled LOTS of air out of the system (awesome )... after priming it until firm it still cranked and sputtered. THen I hitched a ride with the GF to work. So what's the scoop? Is the fuel pump dead? Time to tighten down all the fittings from tank to firewall? I know a lift pump will the the magical fix many will recommend but I need some thoughts on how to get it driveable in the meantime...

Author:	JeepBumm68 [ Wed Oct 28, 2009 12:05 pm ]
Post subject:
I would check. The fuel line from tank tootor and make sure everything is tight and there are up cloggs in the system. Next try running diesel bg from napa through the fuel. We did this and it cleaned out whatever gunned my gfs motor. Has not sputtered since then

Author:	bugnout [ Wed Oct 28, 2009 12:11 pm ]
Post subject:
Add the lift pump. It will fix it for good. I accomplished it in an afternoon. Just need to run as much fuel out of the tank as possible before you start. I have some connector pins if you need them.

Author:	durangotang [ Wed Oct 28, 2009 1:48 pm ]
Post subject:
bugnout wrote: Add the lift pump. It will fix it for good. I accomplished it in an afternoon. Just need to run as much fuel out of the tank as possible before you start. I have some connector pins if you need them. Yeah if you have some connector pins, that would be great....

Author:	geordi [ Wed Oct 28, 2009 2:53 pm ]
Post subject:
I added an external (Mr Gasket type) fuel pump right at the bottom of the fuel tank so it only had to pull fuel over the top of the tank, it has positive (~4 psi) from then on. Running the power lead from the engine's distro box took longer than installing the pump. $60 including materials and its done. You might find you have a leak after this, which is why there was so much air in the system... OR that it works fine after, which could indicate that the filter is partially clogged and is just not working under the vacuum design. Do the power pump, either in the tank or the external. I want the internal too, but can't afford it yet. But I had similar problems, and they are all gone now.

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Author:	ATXKJ [ Wed Oct 28, 2009 5:30 pm ]
Post subject:
Okay - I have a lift pump - however the lift pump is a bandaid for a lot of different problems (safety factor) if you system is good it'll work stock if you're pumping out air - it's got a leak - fix the leak #1 suspect is the heater plug - new style head will fix that ~$100 with the pigtail and a new filter at MoparPartsAmerica after that no real priority but the connectors at the tank -they're made for pressure - it's a vacuum system. a clogged filter can cause problems, as will a loose filter or any of the connectors inline. Personally - I'm a big fan of fix the problem 1st and then add the lift pump as insurance.

Author:	Glend [ Wed Oct 28, 2009 6:00 pm ]
Post subject:
Agreed, fix the problem first, if there is air in the system you have a leak in a fitting or hose somewhere. Personally I can't understand the argument for lift pumps, we have thousands of VM engine CRDs Wranglers and KJs running around in Australia and not one has a lift pump - its simply not a problem here.

Author:	warp2diesel [ Wed Oct 28, 2009 6:24 pm ]
Post subject:	Much easier to find a slow slight fuel leak....
...than an air leak. I found the very small air leak I had on the filter head, after I installed my lift pump. Two simple laws of Physics: 1) Vacuum leak, invisible. 2) Fuel leak visible. Don't know about you, but my eyes work better with something visible

Author:	geordi [ Wed Oct 28, 2009 8:42 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Much easier to find a slow slight fuel leak....
warp2diesel wrote: ...than an air leak. I found the very small air leak I had on the filter head, after I installed my lift pump. Two simple laws of Physics: 1) Vacuum leak, invisible. 2) Fuel leak visible. Don't know about you, but my eyes work better with something visible X2

Author:	kdlewis1975 [ Wed Oct 28, 2009 10:37 pm ]
Post subject:
Ditto.... When I installed my lift pump (happens to be a Mr. Gasket as well), I tweaked the nylon lines that run to the tank enough to cause a pretty massive air leak. I couldn't get the system to purge and the Jeep would barely run at an idle. I realize what was going on when I would push the plunger and then hear gurgling at the fuel tank. I ended up dropping the tank and replacing the nylon lines with rubber hose. Before I added the lift pump, I was getting a lot of air in the fuel filter head. I replaced that too just in case and to the get the model with the updated heater plug, but my problem could have been at the tank all along. Good luck.

Author:	05infernoCRDL [ Thu Oct 29, 2009 2:35 am ]
Post subject:
Glend wrote: Agreed, fix the problem first, if there is air in the system you have a leak in a fitting or hose somewhere. Personally I can't understand the argument for lift pumps, we have thousands of VM engine CRDs Wranglers and KJs running around in Australia and not one has a lift pump - its simply not a problem here. don't you guys have a different fuel manager head too though?

Author:	Joe Romas [ Thu Oct 29, 2009 9:31 am ]
Post subject:
Air occures naturally in diesel fuel Anyone who has or had a VW diesel will see tiny bubbles that pass harmlessly back to the tank. One of the problems on the CRD's, expecially the 06's that has the filter head raised to clear the ABS/ESP unit, is the filter is the hightest point in the system and the air builds up there. Finally the large amount of air causes problems when it getts to the CP3 pump. In addition the CRD fuel lines are the same as the pressurized gasoline system. Yes you can replace the entire fuel intake fuel lines with rubber hoses and eliminate half of the problem. But the real complete solution is a in tank lift pump that most other smaller, including the cummins dodge, diesels vehicles have. The argument of "fixing the problem" has been around since it was first identified but is only a band aid. A lift pump is the real solution.

Author:	durangotang [ Sat Oct 31, 2009 1:42 am ]
Post subject:
Random update... I decided to plug the KJ in and see if that helped at all... after being plugged in overnight it started after 5 cranks or so and ran great. Outside temp has been hovering at 30-50F lately... I've NEVER had any issues with the cold... hopefully a lift pump, new lines, and new fuel head will bring it back to how it was... it better Until then... I carry an extension cord in the back.

Author:	durangotang [ Wed Nov 25, 2009 7:44 pm ]
Post subject:
Update... fuel system is good... I seem to have found the air leak and sealed it (for now) Still no start in the cold... if it's plugged in it starts great. Pulled a P0683 code today. I assume that this means I have at least 1 glow plug that is toast. My question: I'm thinking it is probably worth it to replace the troublesome relay and glow plug module before actually replacing any of the plugs... does this sound right? Really not looking breaking (I mean changing) the glow plugs... Is there a writeup on the matter that I have missed (in addition to the FSM)

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Author:	ATXKJ [ Wed Nov 25, 2009 9:38 pm ]
Post subject:
an individual glow plug would be a 1261,2,3 or 4 the 683 sounds like a module - so I'd try that first when the dealer started replace Plugs - they broke one and had to pull the head. so it's not always an easy change.