My front calipers are really hard to slide the pin(singular) in and out.
Each caliper has a pin with a rubber bushing like part on it. And both left and right calipers are really hard to move in and out. I picked up replacement calipers from Napa and they slide easily, but before I commit the cash, maybe someone can help me understand why these have the rubber part, why they are so hard to move(after I've lubed them), and what I can do to correct the problem, if anything.

As a side note the old dude with a pony tail at Napa told me to mix 50/50 Sil-Glyde and Moly-Graph for the caliper lube, and that would last better because it will repel water better etc... thoughts?

Josh

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2006 Sport CRD
Provent-removed, Snorkel Air box, Raycor fuel head/filter,Omega temp. sensor, Fuel pressure gage, Kennedy Lift pump-not working now, fuel cooler Covered, B&M cooler for trans oil, Suncoast TC/ shift kit, 245/70/16 Firestone Destination A/T's, Amzoil& water in the diffs, mobile 1 0w-40, Radiator blanket
Thanks LOST

Moly is a great lube while the silicon is your water repellent

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2008 KK Liberty Sport NIGHT OPS EDITION + GILLS
OEM & Custom Skids - Factory Tow Package - Rock Lizard Skink Super Sliders
Prototype JBA 4 Inch Lift - JBA UCA's - Flowmaster Super 44 OR - Whacked Resonator
Jet Stage 2 - RL Gecko Basket Rack - Custom Winch Bumper - Recon 10.5K Winch

After a closer look at these pins, I think the rubber sheath is to keep the pin from coming out, and the slide can operate properly within the 1/2" or so that the rubber piece allows for.
When I attempt to push the pin in the rubber sheath wont stay in its spot on the pin, there is a metal lip that is supposed to keep it in, and it doesn't. So the sheath binds the pin in the hole and was causing it to not slide.
When I 1st re-greased the pins I put a bunch of grease in the hole, but then it made it difficult to push the pin in. There was no where for the air to escape.
So this time I stuck the long brake cleaner nozzle in the hole to the end and tried to remove the grease, and it worked to remove alot of it. But the pin still doesn't want to push in.
Do these rubber sheaths just get soggy after awhile? Is this a common issue that requires a new pin?
Could it be from using the wrong grease, say maybe the stuff that is for the back of the pads to keep them from squeeking(I thought that stuff said for all caliper moving parts? maybe not) ?
Anyone have some info here, and maybe where to pick up some new pins?

Thanks

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2006 Sport CRD
Provent-removed, Snorkel Air box, Raycor fuel head/filter,Omega temp. sensor, Fuel pressure gage, Kennedy Lift pump-not working now, fuel cooler Covered, B&M cooler for trans oil, Suncoast TC/ shift kit, 245/70/16 Firestone Destination A/T's, Amzoil& water in the diffs, mobile 1 0w-40, Radiator blanket
Thanks LOST

On our '99 VW Passat, I found that one of the slider bores in one caliper was improperly formed, even though it was visually indistinguishable from the others. I simply drilled it out with a bit that matched the ID of the bores where the pins slid fine right to the bottom.

I would mike all your pins to see if you have a defective oversize one. If they are all the same and they are not corroded, there's no point in buying new pins. Just clean out ALL the grease from the bores and confirm that the pins freely slide DRY down to the bottom of the bores without catching or hanging up. If you find one or more that do, drill them out just enough so that they don't catch at all going all the way to the bottom. Clean thoroughly with brake clean and compressed air and visually inspect carefully for any burrs.

Put a heavy coat of slider lube on ONLY the pins and you will have no trouble getting them all the way into the bores.

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP