What are some musts for new CRD owner

andrewmaurin · **Joined:** Tue Oct 27, 2009 11:24 pm **Posts:** 3

Hello all,
I got my Liberty about three weeks ago and so far I am really happy with it. I would like to give it some stance and wondered what is a recommended lift for someone on a budget? I was also wondering about tuning - I get the feeling that the GDE tune is the way to go. Another thing I get a feeling about is an aftermarket muffler. Any other suggestions or recommendations with which to go with? Thanks a bunch!

stoutdog · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2009 12:57 am

Here are some "musts", IMO:

1) Get a GDE tune. Power+efficiency+drivability = no reason not to.
2) Clean the MAP sensor and CAC hoses (see the CRD Tech section)
3) Unplug the fuel heater (see the CRD Tech section)

Some "maybes":

1) Install an aftermarket muffler. I did, although I'm not sure if I actually gained any mpgs. Sounds a little deeper though.
2) Install an Amsoil Ea Air Filter... more durable and efficient than stock.
3) Install a Provent or homemade device for filtering CCV oil vapors (see CRD Tech section)

If you can find a place to purchase biodiesel, I would also recommend running this little tractor on no more than B30 (30% biofuel). Mileage is about the same, if not better, but the ride is a lot smoother and quieter.

Hope that gives you a good start!

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2009 12:57 am

There is not much you can do to lift a Crd with out spending a ton if you want something over 2 to 2 1/2 inches from what I seen.

I am a fairly new CRD owner myself and I'm thinking about and OME spring lift with OME shocks and struts. I don't have the cash now tho. I was told by another member here to Talk to Dirk @ DPG offroad. I talked to the guy two weeks ago, seems like a decent guy to deal with too. anyway the parts were going to be around $750. You can get a spacer lift for way less but that may make the Jepp ride rougher or not handle as good. I am going to save up till I can do it right the first time so that I am happy and done with it.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:38 am

Welcome to LOST

The only real 'must' is something to stop the CCV from dumping oil into the intake

That's either Provent or EHM (check CRD Tech section)

if you're having problems- you might need some other upgrades like fuel head/fuel filter

the MAP sensor clean is free ~10 minutes of work

Then you can get to 'want' - there are a lot of things

lifts - I've got OME

I prefer All-J's - they know KJ's - you can call and talk to Quinn or Heather and they know what works

and they're great help - and they're at Moab if you go with the group.

http://boulderbars.com/kjproducts.htm

and they support LOST.

dgeist · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2009 9:38 am

If you're really looking to be cost conscious, obviously the "clean the <foo> sensor" things should be a first choice. As mods go, the most "cost effective" one that I did was the muffler. A straight section of 2.5" and some reasonable welding skills (or a local muffler shop) and you can have a few mpg increase, less turbo lag, and a little more power for under 100 bucks.

Dan

VMKJCRD · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2009 4:51 pm

If you dont plan on doing the GDE tune any time soon i would consider doing the ORM to stop the EGR valve from recycling the exhaust to the engine for burning. (surprised no one mention it yet).
Here is the link for the ORM, EHM or proVent, and where the MAP is located.

When i first got my Crd, first thing i did was change the oil, oil filter and fuel filter. You never know how long that oil has been running and how old that fuel filter is. When you do think of changing the oil you should so a search here for what type of oil you want to run on your rig. Folks here have different opinions on which oil to use so the best thing to do would be a search for what oil type and from there pick your poison. I ended up using 5w 40 shell rotella FULL synthetic and using a Mobil 1 M1 301 oil filter and definitely think replacing your oil pan plug with a fumoto valve because they tend to strip very easily.

Best of luck with your New "used" Crd :wink:

vtdog · **Joined:** Fri Sep 30, 2005 11:27 am **Posts:** 640

OR, you can just go stock and make no major changes/additions/upgrades (except junking oem tires) and drive the vehicle without major issues-as most have done

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:29 pm

vtdog wrote:

OR, you can just go stock and make no major changes/additions/upgrades (except junking oem tires) and drive the vehicle without major issues-as most have done

I feel this way about mine but I am very intrested in learning about the mods and things other here have done to overcome problems or improve the preformance.

I totally agree with changing the oil, oil filter and fuel filter first, I did this mayself for the reasons staated.

I would like to do the GDE tune but the price is high for a software flash and even tho I am not a hgh milage driver I need to drive it every day it is my only car.

I am thinking about the Mann Provent air - oil seperator. I just got new tires, Hercules Terra trac AT in 245/70/16

the stock tires (wrangler silent armour) are good in dry pavement and some gravel and mud but not in the rain.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2009 8:36 pm

The flange between the stock muffler and the cat is only 2 1/8" ID. Make sure that you open this up to the 2 1/2" size. I have run a bunch of tests with a back pressure gauge installed between the Turbo outlet and the CAT. After opening up the choke point at the flange and adding my Magnaflow, the only time I got any back pressure (like 1/2 PSI) is when the CAT gets a little sooted up. One hard stomp on the accelerator going up an expressway entrance ramp and driving at least 5 miles at 65+MPH fixes that problem.

linewarbr · **Posted:** Tue Nov 03, 2009 1:38 pm

CRD-Guy wrote:

. . .pick your poison. I ended up using 5w 40 shell rotella synthetic blend and using a Mobil 1 M1 301 oil filter and definitely think. . .

DO NOT USE A SYNTHETIC BLEND, USE FULL SYNTHETIC ONLY.

The spec for our engines is either 0W-40 or 5W-40 (which most use, I think) FULL SYNTHETIC.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Tue Nov 03, 2009 2:01 pm

mikey1273 wrote:

I would like to do the GDE tune but the price is high for a software flash and even tho I am not a hgh milage driver I need to drive it every day it is my only car.

You're paying for expertise, equipment, development/test time and effort, programming time, return shipping and above all this is for a very small niche market. All things considered I feel that they are asking a fair price. The only thing that is putting me off is the possibility of it getting lost or delayed at the border or getting dinged for import duties.

If the fuel economy claims can be realised I would expect to recover the cost in a couple of years.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Tue Nov 03, 2009 3:13 pm

dirtmover wrote:

mikey1273 wrote:

I would like to do the GDE tune but the price is high for a software flash and even tho I am not a hgh milage driver I need to drive it every day it is my only car.

You're paying for expertise, equipment, development/test time and effort, programming time, return shipping and above all this is for a very small niche market. All things considered I feel that they are asking a fair price. The only thing that is putting me off is the possibility of it getting lost or delayed at the border or getting dinged for import duties.

If the fuel economy claims can be realised I would expect to recover the cost in a couple of years.

I agree with that, they are spending much time developing the tune and the market for it is limited. The price is still not small, but yet fair for the work they put into creating it. Not being able to drive with out an ECU is a roadblock for me more so than the money

Linewarbr wrote:

DO NOT USE A SYNTHETIC BLEND, USE FULL SYNTHETIC ONLY.

The spec for our engines is either 0W-40 or 5W-40 (which most use, I think) FULL SYNTHETIC.

I use the Shell Rotella T 5w40 in the blue bottles/jugs That is suposed to be Full Synthetic not a blend. Wally world sells that for $5.77 per quart or $19.00 per gallon jug. buying the gallon equels out to getting it for $4.75 a quart.

There are not that many chioces in oil for us, I know of 4

Shell Rotella T 5w40 in blue bottle
Royal purple 0w40 & 5w40
Mobil1 0w40 & 5w40
Amsoil 5w40

I can not find mobil1 in 0w40 in stores here, most parts stores stock the 5w40. Rotella is widely available. I now know an Amsoil dealer if I want to use Amsoil products. Royal Purple I have not found unlees I ordered that online.

tonycrd · **Posted:** Tue Nov 03, 2009 3:15 pm

Samco boost hoses ....great upgrade and it will not leave you stranded with a torn OEM hose and no power.

Unless you want to keep a roll of duct tape handy at all times.

Fuel lift pump mod seems to keep most of the fuelfilter issues away.

VMKJCRD · **Posted:** Tue Nov 03, 2009 3:16 pm

ooops how did that get there.. ? :roll:

thanks for pointing that out linewarbr,
let me go and correct that.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Tue Nov 03, 2009 7:17 pm

tonycrd wrote:

Samco boost hoses ....great upgrade and it will not leave you stranded with a torn OEM hose and no power.

Did someone here not report a Samco failure?
....or maybe it was caused by chaffing?

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:08 pm

dirtmover wrote:

mikey1273 wrote:

I would like to do the GDE tune but the price is high for a software flash and even tho I am not a hgh milage driver I need to drive it every day it is my only car.

You're paying for expertise, equipment, development/test time and effort, programming time, return shipping and above all this is for a very small niche market. All things considered I feel that they are asking a fair price. The only thing that is putting me off is the possibility of it getting lost or delayed at the border or getting dinged for import duties.

If the fuel economy claims can be realised I would expect to recover the cost in a couple of years.

Just make arrangements to drive to Wixom and tell them you ate all your apples when you come back.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Nov 03, 2009 10:26 pm

dirtmover wrote:

Did someone here not report a Samco failure?
....or maybe it was caused by chaffing?

Yeah - it rubbed and cut the hose - it's a good idea to put the plastic webbing cover on the Samco's too (it's on stock)
and a better idea to use the stainless webbing that Danoid did (although it sounded like a real pain to put on)

onthehunt · **Posted:** Wed Nov 04, 2009 1:41 am

Quote:

Welcome to LOST

The only real 'must' is something to stop the CCV from dumping oil into the intake

That's either Provent or EHM (check CRD Tech section)

X2. As it's your only vehicle I'd keep it as close to stock as possible. Unless you work on them.

What are some musts for new CRD owner

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