I took advantage of a longstanding rear main seal leak to have our dealer, at the same time, install a new "euro" JK TC (I supplied it from Mopar Parts America). under the factory extended warranty (62K, now). The deductible is $100, apparently per visit, so it looked like by far the least expensive way to get a new TC installed. We also got the fried heater blower circuit board replaced at the same time. (Fan only worked on "high".)
BTW, the TC seal reportedly did not appear to be leaking when they got it apart, so this did not require a new pump, plate and seal to be installed. FYI, they had told me that if it was leaking, they would replace all that stuff under warranty. However, if it was done simply at my request, it would add $1,000 to the bill, parts and labor.
(The only reported problem was stripping the heads, when removing them, of several of the Torx bolts that hold the flex plate on. New bolts were not in stock and had to be ordered.)
My wife picked it up and did not notice anything out of the ordinary. I immediately noticed a new whistleling/whirring sound that is clearly related to engine RPM. It is quite apparrent under load at low speed up to 2000 RPM. It is also possible to hear it in the driver's seat, in neutral, increasing in volume as you bring it up to 2000 RPM, but it is much fainter than when under load. I have been all over the top and bottom of the motor with the engine running at 2000 RPM and I just can't seem to pinpoint the location. It sounds the same as when a bearing was going on the alternator on my '99 Passat, except that that was not load dependent.
I immediately suspected a slight turbo hose leak, but I had asked the dealer tech to check the hose condition and clamp tightness and he had indicated that all looked good. To the extent that I can look at it in my driveway, I can't pinpoint the location. No adjustments were made to the serpentine belt tension and the exhaust was supposedly not disturbed in the R&R of the trans. The fact the the noise is louder under load when there is obviously more boost than running at the same RPM in neutral, clearly makes one lean towards something to do with the turbo system.
My boost gauge is still not connected, so I can't tell if there is a slight drop in boost. If there is a slight leak, it is not enough to set any codes. The scanner shows none. (A while ago, when the turbo solenoid was failing, I did get a "low boost" code.)
So, this is holding up my getting back to the dyno to do a back to back comparison of the GDE ECO and HOT tunes. I want to get it cleared up so as to not introduce any extra variables.
So what do you folks think?
Thanks As Always,
DOC
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