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Help with a 05 Jeep liberty
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=48290		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  moepwr [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 8:53 am ]
Post subject:  Help with a 05 Jeep liberty
Hi I am new to the site i was refered from a member on moparts. THis is a great site. I have a question maybe some one can help.



My friend has a 2005 Jeep libery diesel 2.8 liter CRD

The vechicle is running like crap. It will start and run at idle fine. But it belches black smoke under accelleration. It has no power and will rev up to around 3000rpm.

It spits out a few codes. But the one that will not clear is: Fuel air metering P1189

The other codes are as follows:
Fuel air metering P1250
p1251
p1263
p1267
EGR control P2141
P0489

Turbo boost COntrol solenoid low
P0047

Fuel prssure reg P0091

O2 Sensor bank1 P0146

Fuel pressure reg2 P2295
Control circuit low

Turbo under boost P0299

Glow plug heater P0670

Thanks for any help, Yes he does want to blow it up, And knowing him he might if this goes on much longer

Thank you for any help

Dean
Sensor 3 no activity
Author:  Joe Romas [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:01 am ]
Post subject:  Check the charged air hoses
First thing is to look at the post currently just below this one.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... 78bca8c8ab
Author:  GreenDieselEngineering [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:32 am ]
Post subject: 
Your friend has too much money if he wants to blow up his car for fun. With those codes he is poised to succeed!

P1189 is for the intake pressure sensor on the airbox next to the mass air flow sensor, it most likely came unplugged as the retention clip is garbage. All the other codes are "short to ground" errors. It almost seems like an issue with one of the wiring looms has a major ground issue.

The car has no boost because the vacuum reservoir solenoid is shorted to ground and will not open. This solenoid will prevent vacuum from reaching the turbocharger and thus no boost. You can by-pass this by moving the vacuum feed to the turbo solenoid inlet. These solenoids are located right behind the airbox.

Has the vehicle been doing some serious off-roading? It takes a lot of abuse to wear through wire looms. Good luck!
Author:  ATXKJ [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 9:33 am ]
Post subject: 
Howdy moepwr

The 3000 rpm, black smoke, no power - is classic blown CAC hose as Joe has pointed out.

you've got a real mix of other codes -
including glow plugs which don't normally come up with the blown hose

are they all active?

if your friend hasn't done any work there are some other common problem that come up (typically air-in-fuel)


(wire looms can also be targeted by mice/squirrels if it gets parked outside)
Author:  moepwr [ Sun Dec 06, 2009 10:19 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the info guys. I have informed him of your posts and he said he will try them when we get out of work today. He is not one to go off roading, unlike me 8)

I will update the thread as I get more info.

Dean
Author:  moepwr [ Wed Dec 09, 2009 8:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
Moving the vacuum hoses did not help. He also tried to eliminate fuel system leaks by running a fuel line directly into a can of diesel. That did nothing either still the same belching smoke. He inspected the CAC hoses they appear to be fine. He placced his hand over the air intake and the engine stalled the hoses collapsed and held vacuum for a bit. Has anyone had any issues with the fuel pressure solenoid. He suspects it is starving for fuel. He has run his Powerstroke out of fuel and it is doggy and belches black smoke until it self bleeds the air out of the system.

The rig has offroaded some but never abused low range crawl only. He has had a mouse under the hood though.

Thanks,
Dean
Author:  Glend [ Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
It could also be a broken EGR pipe - that will kill the boost and return that EGR code. Visual inspection of the connection at the manifold end will tell.
Author:  GreenDieselEngineering [ Wed Dec 09, 2009 11:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
It could be a stuck open EGR valve, but with the error codes it points elsewhere. Definitely check the wire harness and ground integrity. Wiring issues are easy to fix, just hard to find.
Author:  dgeist [ Wed Dec 09, 2009 11:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
moepwr wrote:
The rig has offroaded some but never abused low range crawl only. He has had a mouse under the hood though.

Thanks,
Dean


Hold the phone... a mouse! Yeah...I'd say the (chewed-through) wire loom is the most likely cause :wink:
Author:  nescosmo [ Thu Dec 10, 2009 3:39 am ]
Post subject: 
Check the vac. hose that goes from the reservoir to the turbo sometimes that spring a leak and the jeep run real bad. take it out and check it with your mouth to see if it leak.
check your air flap if it has too much oil could be stock half open check to see if it open and close free.
Author:  moepwr [ Thu Dec 10, 2009 7:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
THanks, I talked to him today and he pulled the air intake temp and boost pressure sensor and it is gummed up really bad. HE IS GOING TO TRY TO CLEAN IT. What should he use ???? Electronics cleaner??? Also he has found a web site that might be of interest to CRD owners its alldadatadiy.com It has a pretty comprehensive on line set of manuals and tsbs notes and specs for the CRD. Its around 30 bucks to subscribe for one year.

Dean
Author:  RJM [ Thu Dec 10, 2009 7:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
moepwr wrote:
THanks, I talked to him today and he pulled the air intake temp and boost pressure sensor and it is gummed up really bad. HE IS GOING TO TRY TO CLEAN IT. What should he use ???? Electronics cleaner??? Also he has found a web site that might be of interest to CRD owners its alldadatadiy.com It has a pretty comprehensive on line set of manuals and tsbs notes and specs for the CRD. Its around 30 bucks to subscribe for one year.

Dean


If you do a little diggin' online you will find a repair manual for a whole lot cheaper than that.
Author:  RJM [ Thu Dec 10, 2009 7:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
ps. if you want to troubleshoot your CRD, this is site is your best bet. Lots of long time owners, and a wealth of stored up information. Roll up your sleeves, do some reading and dump the backyard mechanic.
Author:  moepwr [ Sat Dec 12, 2009 5:31 pm ]
Post subject: 
Anyone have any ideas what obd 2 code p1190 could be? It is new the p1189 is gone.
Thanks,
Dean
Author:  GreenDieselEngineering [ Sat Dec 12, 2009 6:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
p1190 is an open circuit for the airbox inlet pressure.

p1189 is a "short to ground" for the same sensor.

Check the terminals and make sure the connector is fully seated...it is a bad connector design.
Author:  RJM [ Sat Dec 12, 2009 6:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
moepwr wrote:
Anyone have any ideas what obd 2 code p1190 could be? It is new the p1189 is gone.
Thanks,
Dean


Check the connection to your rail pressure sensor, or the sensor itself.
Author:  moepwr [ Sat Dec 12, 2009 10:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
The inlet pressure sensor is fully plugged in. Could the sensor be bad? The local jeep dealer has one for $68 and change. Would it be worth changining it. The fuel pressure sensor is also fully plugged in. Can an ohm meter check these sensors. If so what are the resistance values they have.
Thanks,
Dean
Author:  RJM [ Sun Dec 13, 2009 9:26 am ]
Post subject: 
I am sure there is a way to test it, I checked the repair manual and it says nothing. maybe someone with a little more electrical troubleshooting skills can dive in on this?
Author:  moepwr [ Mon Dec 14, 2009 5:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
The maf sensor had an open wire, it had burned through on the ac line about 10 inches back from the connector that is now reparied. The codes that remain with a obd2 are p1263 p1267 and p 0299. Using the key switch method there are a lot more codes P0039, p1225, p1205 , p0299, p0619, p0639, b1041, u0186. Any help is appreciated.

Dean
Author:  ATXKJ [ Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
P1263 is burned into my memory - glow plug fail cylinder #2 from the front
pull the connector and measure resistance - good is ~.5 to 1 ohm
bad generally runs 100's +

it's a quick check to measure all 4
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