CRD quit, no ignition, easy fix

vjwag · **Posted:** Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:01 am

Just had my first experience with the CRD driving 20 feet and dying. Thanks to all on the posts, I hit quickly on the air in the fuel line issue and fix. I thought I would put a clean subject line in and maybe save the next guy a 15 minute search.... then again, I found some cool posts during the hunt...

Symptoms: starts fine, runs about 15 seconds and quits. No ignition even if you wait, I am running in ORM so CEL is already on. Easiest thing to check is air in the fuel line. Best post I found is:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... ight=bleed

which is a great post on how to change your fuel filter, and includes how to bleed air out of the line. Mine actually took 3-4 pumps with closed, then 2-3 with the bleed screw open before I was pumping fuel only. Started right up when I sealed it back up. Just keep a wrench in the car and show your wife how to do it just in case...

I still am surprised that there isn't a lifter pump in the CRD. Seems like a long pull to the tank...

So question for the diehards, what would contribute to the air in the line with no warning?

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:20 am

That was your warning. Lift pump it and never worry again.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Air in the fuel supply line typically on comes from a few sources. The most common source is through the fuel heater connector. The heater is always pulling some current and the terminals were undersized and tend to get very hot. The sealing material around the terminals can melt and allow air to be injested into the fuel head. You can easily check the connector integrity by removing the vehicle side harness and looking for deterioration around the terminals. The fuel heater connector is the right side of the fuel head assembly. If the leak is large enough, fuel may seep out while the primer is being pushed several times. There are a couple TSBs that address this issue: 18-011-09 is a new fuel/water separator unit with larger fuel heater connector (PN 68043089AA) and 18-007-05 is a jumper harness for the vehicle side wiring.

Other potential leak paths on the supply side are the quick connect back at the fuel tank or just a loose clamp on the fuel lines at the separator unit.

The new fuel head solved the die out issue on on of our KJs, so we changed the other vehicle as a preventative maintenance measure. No more issues to date.

The Bosch ZP18 fuel pump on the backside of the high pressure pump is a positive displacement pump and will function fine for the life of the vehicle as long as there are no air leakage paths on the supply side.

If a lift pump will give you peace of mind, we would still recommend fixing the air leak or there might be a risk of having the fuel leak in the other direction since the lift pump will pressurize the entire supply line to about 1-3 psi depending on the pump you purchase.

dkenny · **Posted:** Wed Dec 02, 2009 8:59 am

another source of an air leak is the plastic line from the tank to the metal lines.

while I was work on my wifes Jeep. I needed to drain a 3/4 full tank. I though I'd just use the lift pump that wasn't mounted yet.. When I started getting air in the fuel..I thought I was done..WRONG..I only got about 10 gallons out..

put a lift pump in..

-dkenny

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

Lift pump it AND put in a real fuel filter. Problem solved.

vjwag · **Posted:** Fri Dec 11, 2009 7:10 pm

according to my parts guy (not the dealer), the fuel/water separator unit is on backorder nationwide... but we found 'the only one in AZ'... plenty of wiring harnesses though.

He quoted me 2 - 3 hours labor to do the R&R, does that sound right? doesn't seem like it should take that.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Fri Dec 11, 2009 7:24 pm

took me about 20 minutes because I had to find an extension cord for the soldering iron.

solder 2 wires for the connector

swap fuel lines from old head to new head
swap wires from old to new
filter is already attached

attach 2 bolts to firewall.

bleed system

start

to get to 2 hours - you'd have to factor in a long lunch

(look at the link you posted - the only addition is cut/solder 2 wires)

vjwag · **Posted:** Fri Dec 11, 2009 8:11 pm

yep, that's why I am scratching my head.... This is a good shop near me so I am thinking they don't understand what it is. I had them track down the part and then they usually give me a fair bid on all labor as they know I will do it myself if I find the time... thx for the confirmation!

vjwag · **Posted:** Sat Dec 19, 2009 3:44 pm

to close this out for the newbie looking to fix it, I had the new head with filter and new connectors installed for 1 hour labor plus parts so < $230 total. I will ride the horse until the next air problem then chase the lift pump. thx all for the comments.

CRD quit, no ignition, easy fix

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