Anybody seafoam the CRD?

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat Mar 06, 2010 9:53 am

One of the big engine companies warns against pre filling the filters on the transit busses my son-in-law works on. Very simply the possibility of dirt getting into the precision high pressure ($$$) pumps is too great. They are around 29,000 psi :dizzy:

Also what is the lubricity of Sea Foam :?:

It's fine for my 2000 4.0L XJ but not for my CRD :lol:

For that I put in half a gallon of B20 every fillup.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Sat Mar 06, 2010 1:48 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

One of the big engine companies warns against pre filling the filters on the transit busses my son-in-law works on. Very simply the possibility of dirt getting into the precision high pressure ($$$) pumps is too great. They are around 29,000 psi :dizzy:

Also what is the lubricity of Sea Foam :?:

It's fine for my 2000 4.0L XJ but not for my CRD :lol:

For that I put in half a gallon of B20 every fillup.

Prefilling the filter with anything goes in the catagory of "Cleanliness is next to Godliness."
Parafinic petroleum oil is what adds the lubrication Joe.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Mar 06, 2010 8:38 pm

OK, now that we know that 0W 40 is the oil of choice for our CRD, let us continue the Seafoam discussion.

I have seafoamed the fuel tank and noticed an increase in power, the only bad part about it was that my brand new fuel filter had to be changed 2 days later.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:32 pm

racertracer wrote:

OK, now that we know that 0W 40 is the oil of choice for our CRD, let us continue the Seafoam discussion.

I have seafoamed the fuel tank and noticed an increase in power, the only bad part about it was that my brand new fuel filter had to be changed 2 days later.

Why? It gets rid of any water. Did it clean out some sludge in the tank? If so, time to switch where you buy fuel. Maybe you had a nest of bugs living in there and it killed them. They sell that bio kill stuff. They really can only live if water is present though.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Sun Mar 07, 2010 8:35 pm

Quote:

One of the big engine companies warns against pre filling the filters on the transit busses my son-in-law works on.

They all say that. In real life, the fuel filters are all filled when they are changed. Losing prime really sucks when you are paid by the job. Just fill it through the outside holes on the filter.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 08, 2010 3:40 pm

well I did it sunday afternoon in prep for my oil change. I put about 7-8 oz. in the crankcase and the rest in the fuel. so far nothing seems to be different in a negitive way. I will be changing the oil tomorrow afternoon.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Mon Mar 08, 2010 3:47 pm

That's a weak batch in your fuel unless you had 1/3 of a tank. Either way, it will do some good. You probably wasn't very dirty anyway. Make sure you let ALL of it drain out of the oil drain. It may drain faster that the oil alone since it is a tad thinner. Seems like it takes for ever.

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 08, 2010 5:37 pm

BVCRD wrote:

That's a weak batch in your fuel unless you had 1/3 of a tank. Either way, it will do some good. You probably wasn't very dirty anyway. Make sure you let ALL of it drain out of the oil drain. It may drain faster that the oil alone since it is a tad thinner. Seems like it takes for ever.

My Fuel system should be fairly clean.... I run some bio when I can get it and powerservice too once in a while.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Mar 08, 2010 6:22 pm

onthehunt wrote:

Quote:

One of the big engine companies warns against pre filling the filters on the transit busses my son-in-law works on.

They all say that. In real life, the fuel filters are all filled when they are changed. Losing prime really sucks when you are paid by the job. Just fill it through the outside holes on the filter.

What wrong with bleeding the system the correct way and avoid damage to the pump and injectors? Even prefilling filters, there is no guarantee that you won't have to burp it later. It's not worth the risk.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Tue Mar 09, 2010 12:56 pm

BlackLibertyCRD wrote:

onthehunt wrote:

Quote:

One of the big engine companies warns against pre filling the filters on the transit busses my son-in-law works on.

They all say that. In real life, the fuel filters are all filled when they are changed. Losing prime really sucks when you are paid by the job. Just fill it through the outside holes on the filter.

What wrong with bleeding the system the correct way and avoid damage to the pump and injectors? Even prefilling filters, there is no guarantee that you won't have to burp it later. It's not worth the risk.

Nothing wrong with it at all. Takes a while to do it is all. You will always have air in the filter housing...always!!!

Pasieka · **Joined:** Fri Sep 19, 2014 11:32 pm **Posts:** 1

So I saw a bunch of Youtube videos of people spraying ( some even pouring) water into the intakes after the intercoolers with RPMs at 2000... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ugn8TI0TMio

but i think this only decarbonizes the combustion area as it will not steam the intake since it is not hot enough to do so....

i was hoping someone tried this or the liqui molly stuff they seem not to sell in the us but do sell in europe :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WrpxoxYmPsc

has anyone pulled the intake off and maually cleaned it the old fashion way? pictures would be nice and an aproximate time and gaket / materials cost would be nice...

Diver1430 · **Posted:** Thu Oct 30, 2014 10:31 am

I have a couple of diesel jettas.
VW, in their service center, uses "diesel purge" which is a moly product. What they do is remove the filter hoses and put them in a can of the stuff and run the car at idle foe 15 mins. Then reconnect the filter and run the car for another 15, I think, then they change the fuel filter.
I have a 2004 PD diesel and since the injectors are $500 each, they advised to run the purge first. I don t see a problem downing the same to VM CRD
I also run a can of sea foam thru the tank every month...
I did the same to my 95 Cummings and just sold at 330,000 miles without a hiccup, engine wise.

Rocky05 · **Joined:** Fri May 17, 2013 11:38 pm **Posts:** 44

After reading this article I seceded to chance it and run a can of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner through my CRD. The turbo intake hose was disconnected from the air filter housing after the engine was warmed up. At no point was there a noticeable increase of RPM. (Occasionally a slight bog, but no stalling) there was a little bit of white smoke during the process. After shutting down and letting it soak for approximately 45 minutes I restarted and went for a 15 minute drive to blow out the system (just a little more white smoke on start up, it is not cold here yet) and check for any noticeable change.

As for my experience: slightly smoother idle. That's it. No runaway diesel. No giant amounts of black smoke (done this plenty of times on Dodge 5.9 gasoline motors, normal result). I work and have experience with several large marine diesels. Some pipe distilled water directly into the intake of the turbo for the express purpose of cleaning the system. Detroit 6-71s with either start systems for cold weather. And blowing crushed walnut shells directly into the exhaust manifold to clean the blades on the turbo. I've never experienced a problem with any of those systems.

Mopar CCC has water as the first ingredient, followed by some large hydrocarbons, solvents, propane and butane. Because it is a spray that comes out as a light foam, I don't believe there is any chance of hydrolocking the motor. I know, I know internet advice and all... I'll try to take some pictures when I put in my new intake elbow kit. MAP sensor was filthy when I bought the CRD 18 months ago. Now have a GDE tune for about 12 months and 18,000 miles. Curious to see what's in there.

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Oct 31, 2014 9:37 am

Rocky05 wrote:

After reading this article I seceded to chance it and run a can of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner through my CRD. The turbo intake hose was disconnected from the air filter housing after the engine was warmed up. At no point was there a noticeable increase of RPM. (Occasionally a slight bog, but no stalling) there was a little bit of white smoke during the process. After shutting down and letting it soak for approximately 45 minutes I restarted and went for a 15 minute drive to blow out the system (just a little more white smoke on start up, it is not cold here yet) and check for any noticeable change.

As for my experience: slightly smoother idle. That's it. No runaway diesel. No giant amounts of black smoke (done this plenty of times on Dodge 5.9 gasoline motors, normal result). I work and have experience with several large marine diesels. Some pipe distilled water directly into the intake of the turbo for the express purpose of cleaning the system. Detroit 6-71s with either start systems for cold weather. And blowing crushed walnut shells directly into the exhaust manifold to clean the blades on the turbo. I've never experienced a problem with any of those systems.

Mopar CCC has water as the first ingredient, followed by some large hydrocarbons, solvents, propane and butane. Because it is a spray that comes out as a light foam, I don't believe there is any chance of hydrolocking the motor. I know, I know internet advice and all... I'll try to take some pictures when I put in my new intake elbow kit. MAP sensor was filthy when I bought the CRD 18 months ago. Now have a GDE tune for about 12 months and 18,000 miles. Curious to see what's in there.

Mines had the EGR plugged since 43000 miles and when i swapped the elbow kit in at like 55000 i had a quarter inch thick buildup of crap around the wall of my stock elbow. I would love to clean the whole system out but thats not exactly easy

Rocky05 · **Joined:** Fri May 17, 2013 11:38 pm **Posts:** 44

mass-hole wrote:

Rocky05 wrote:

After reading this article I seceded to chance it and run a can of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner through my CRD. The turbo intake hose was disconnected from the air filter housing after the engine was warmed up. At no point was there a noticeable increase of RPM. (Occasionally a slight bog, but no stalling) there was a little bit of white smoke during the process. After shutting down and letting it soak for approximately 45 minutes I restarted and went for a 15 minute drive to blow out the system (just a little more white smoke on start up, it is not cold here yet) and check for any noticeable change.

As for my experience: slightly smoother idle. That's it. No runaway diesel. No giant amounts of black smoke (done this plenty of times on Dodge 5.9 gasoline motors, normal result). I work and have experience with several large marine diesels. Some pipe distilled water directly into the intake of the turbo for the express purpose of cleaning the system. Detroit 6-71s with either start systems for cold weather. And blowing crushed walnut shells directly into the exhaust manifold to clean the blades on the turbo. I've never experienced a problem with any of those systems.

Mopar CCC has water as the first ingredient, followed by some large hydrocarbons, solvents, propane and butane. Because it is a spray that comes out as a light foam, I don't believe there is any chance of hydrolocking the motor. I know, I know internet advice and all... I'll try to take some pictures when I put in my new intake elbow kit. MAP sensor was filthy when I bought the CRD 18 months ago. Now have a GDE tune for about 12 months and 18,000 miles. Curious to see what's in there.

Mines had the EGR plugged since 43000 miles and when i swapped the elbow kit in at like 55000 i had a quarter inch thick buildup of crap around the wall of my stock elbow. I would love to clean the whole system out but thats not exactly easy

Thanks Mass-hole! Just to expand a little, bought my CRD in Texas @ 62,000. Drove it 1700 miles to CA getting about 24mpg. Followed the noob guide and cleaned the MAP/boost sensor... (Promptly blew the intercooler to intake hose). GDE tune has me at about 32mpg per numbers, not EVIC! The super optimistic Evic puts it at over 36. I'm about to hit 75,000 now. My opinion is that properly introducing an engine cleaner will do no harm to a normally operating engine. It would be difficult to do it improperly in my opinion.

For any of the naysayers; do you have any documented proof that Seafoam or Mopar CCC has ever caused a catastrophic failure?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 31, 2014 11:06 am

Rocky05 wrote:

After reading this article I seceded to chance it and run a can of Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner through my CRD. The turbo intake hose was disconnected from the air filter housing after the engine was warmed up. At no point was there a noticeable increase of RPM. (Occasionally a slight bog, but no stalling) there was a little bit of white smoke during the process. After shutting down and letting it soak for approximately 45 minutes I restarted and went for a 15 minute drive to blow out the system (just a little more white smoke on start up, it is not cold here yet) and check for any noticeable change.

As for my experience: slightly smoother idle. That's it. No runaway diesel. No giant amounts of black smoke (done this plenty of times on Dodge 5.9 gasoline motors, normal result). I work and have experience with several large marine diesels. Some pipe distilled water directly into the intake of the turbo for the express purpose of cleaning the system. Detroit 6-71s with either start systems for cold weather. And blowing crushed walnut shells directly into the exhaust manifold to clean the blades on the turbo. I've never experienced a problem with any of those systems.

Mopar CCC has water as the first ingredient, followed by some large hydrocarbons, solvents, propane and butane. Because it is a spray that comes out as a light foam, I don't believe there is any chance of hydrolocking the motor. I know, I know internet advice and all... I'll try to take some pictures when I put in my new intake elbow kit. MAP sensor was filthy when I bought the CRD 18 months ago. Now have a GDE tune for about 12 months and 18,000 miles. Curious to see what's in there.

You say that you sprayed the MoparCCC foam stuff directly into the turbo? While is was running?
Wouldn't it make more sense to remove the CAC hose from the engine intake and spray it directly into the intake? Cause thats where all the oily carbon buildup is.

I'd be afraid to spray anything into a spinning turbo.

Also, because this Mopar stuff is a foam, would it be better to spray it in with the engine off and let it soak in before running the engine?

Maybe it will also work to clean the oily builup from inside the CAC.

Rocky05 · **Joined:** Fri May 17, 2013 11:38 pm **Posts:** 44

Yes. I sprayed it directly into the turbo inlet hose while the engine was running. And yes it would make more sense to inject it into the CAC to intake to manifold as you suggested. My only concern was that the pressure from the CCC can would not be greater than the turbo pressure. I do have another can of the CCC, I'll try to make a video of just that scenario for scientific purposes of course. Just letting everyone know what I have done so far leading up to this point.

Also, all the CCV gasses enter the turbo via the same inlet hose. One of the reasons that they are often cracked and leaking anyway. Why not try to clean that up too? I do not have a provent for what it's worth...

weeks101 · **Joined:** Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:29 pm **Posts:** 747

mass-hole wrote:

Mines had the EGR plugged since 43000 miles and when i swapped the elbow kit in at like 55000 i had a quarter inch thick buildup of crap around the wall of my stock elbow. I would love to clean the whole system out but thats not exactly easy

Good news is with the elbow installed (eliminating soot from the mix), oil vapors from the CCV act as a solvent and over the long term will gradually reduce the built-up sludge.

This is assuming you have a closed CCV system (no EHM). Also a Samco kit would be prudent.

Anybody seafoam the CRD?

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