Do you have to remove the aluminum cover behind the cam gears to get the waterpump out? If not how do you do it? and if so how do you take the cam gears off without screwing up the cam timing?

anyone?? help please

Since no one has responded I read through the service manual and it says to remove timing belt inner and outter covers Maybe there's a write up on replacing the timing belt that will give you what you need to know. Since the water pump is driven by the timing belt like VW's TDI I would "assume" most would replace it while doing the timing belt

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

to remove the rear cover you have to take off the cam gears. How do you do this without losing where they go on the cams?

I have not replaced a water pump personally, I looked it up on alldata and of course there are no directions one there. Flat rate only pays a little over an hour to replace the water pump. I am not sure you have to take the rear cover off if they only give you an hour. I would think you just unbolt the water pump from the cover?

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Red 2005 CRD
Cooper Discoverer M+S
New Fuel Filter Assembly

I found this on alldata for a 2006

WATER PUMP

REMOVAL




1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Drain cooling system.
3. Remove timing belt inner and outer covers.
4. Remove water pump retaining bolts and pump (4).

CLEANING
Clean the gasket mating surface. Use caution not to damage the gasket sealing surface.

INSPECTION
Inspect the water pump assembly for cracks in the housing, Water leaks from shaft seal, Loose or rough turning bearing or Impeller rubbing either the pump body or timing chain case/cover.

INSTALLATION

1. Clean mating surfaces of water pump housing and engine block as necessary
2. Place new o-ring in groove in water pump housing. Install water pump and retaining bolts. Torque bolts to 24 Nm
3. Install both inner and outer timing belt covers.
4. Refill cooling system.
5. Connect negative battery cable.

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Red 2005 CRD
Cooper Discoverer M+S
New Fuel Filter Assembly

So I guess you do have to remove the inner cover. You have to have the special tools to lock the cams in place and to remove the cam and high pressure fuel pump sprockets. I would let you borrow them but I live in colorado Hope this helps

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Red 2005 CRD
Cooper Discoverer M+S
New Fuel Filter Assembly

could you post a pic of the tools? anyoneelse anycloser have these tools?

You will need to reset the engine timing if the water pump is replaced. We have the timing tools and cam locking tool for rent if you want to tackle the job yourself. Just send us an email at our support line and we can assist.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

For a Water pump??? - Why?

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Yes, one of the many reasons I am selling mine. It is a pain in the rear end.

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Red 2005 CRD
Cooper Discoverer M+S
New Fuel Filter Assembly

The water pump is driven off the timing belt, which must be loosened to change the pump. In order to tighten the belt you need to follow the timing proceedure, this is fairly drawn out and requires the timing tools to hold the cams and pulleys in place. Make sure to use a new belt if you ever have to re-time the engine, then it should be good for another 100k.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

I had a previous topic posted after my water pump apparently failed on my way back from El Paso after Christmas with almost exactly 50K (50,199) on the clock. I had a slow leak, last week my water pump was replaced at the dealer parts+ labor was $800. I read thru the service manual and it matches isx2009/All Data's steps. I am glad it's no longer leaking but it's timing really throws a monkey wrench in my maintenance schedule.

Thanks again to everyone on this board! And GDE for their time answering my questions, and returning my call.

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06 Jeep KJ CRD Sport full Mopar skids, front tow hooks, rear hitch shackle, Magnaflow muffler, Samco Sport CAC hoses, 02 Airbox mod, Unique series 42 steel wheels.

GDE, its AWESOME that you rent the special tools needed for a timing belt replacement. I now know where to go in 30k miles. I'll definitely be replacing the water pump when the belt gets repalced in addition to other components (rollers/tensioners).

So did anyone ever get a full answer on this topic? I am in the process. I found it fairly easy, but a bit time consuming. Could be a day project or maybe two if you take your time.

Heres what I did:

1) Follow timing belt instructions to get to this point. Here's a link to GDE's timing belt procedure: http://www.keepandshare.com/doc/1729864/timing-belt-installation-pdf-february-4-2010-8-50-am-1-8-meg?da=y
*note* in the picture the intake and exhaust tools are in incorrect positions. The intake pin has an "I" on it and is the bigger tool.
*note* the timing belt idler pulleys are REVERSE threaded
*note* the injection pump gear may be in a different position then correct, this in fine, there are 3 possible "correct" positions, if you move it, just re-time it to the indicated mark and it will be correct.
*note* ensure you lock the cam gears with VM 1085 BEFORE removing cam bolts

2) Remove the cam gears by first locking the camshafts in the correct positions with VM 1052, VM1053 tools (following the timing belt replacement instructions). Then lock the cam gears in place with a VM1085 Cam gear locking tool BEFORE loosening the camshaft bolts (otherwise the torque applied to remove bolts could damage camshafts or VM 1052/ 1053 tools).

3) Remove 3 13mm inner cover bolts, remove 6 8mm inner cover bolts (one of the 13mm ones is hidden just outside the boarder of the cover on the left, and one of the 8mm ones is hidden on the very top of the cover for a support bracket), and remove the inner cover.

4) After removing various hoses and the inner timing cover there are 3 bolts on the water spout (<-- just named it that, idk lol) that holds it to the water pump. 2 are easily accessible with a 8mm deep well w/ 1/4 in ratchet and the third with a 8mm wrench.

5) After removal of the water spout you can finally (barely) access the 2 13mm nuts on the back side of the waterpump. The front side are easily removed with a 13mm closed end wrench (these are extremely overtightened from the factory so use a good quality wrench that won't strip the bolt and a second wrench for leverage).

Thats it, just clean surfaces and replace the oring and gasket and you're on your way back together again.

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)