Help?

AndySRT · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2010 3:07 pm

ok just got the liberty back from having the timing belt done and now its lacking in power. i took it back to the dealer imidately and i got a call today saying it is because the MAF sensor isnt plugged it and the turbo sensor is broke. I guess hopefully i can find a ride there soon so i can check it out myself. :roll:

. by the way the engine doesnt seem to shift or go above 3000RPM or 40MPH. :?:

linewarbr · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2010 3:26 pm

Those explanations they gave you do not account for it being in limp-home mode. I hope they did not install the timing belt incorrectly - that could damage the valvetrain, or the entire engine.

AndySRT · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2010 3:34 pm

they are also explaining it as the turbo sensor is unplugged and therefore the CRD cant gain any boost.

. well hopefully i can pick it up soon so i can get the code scanner plugged in and see what is going on. how can i tell if they were off on the timing? I want to get it out of there ASAP so they dont try to charge me for something.

flman · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2010 4:52 pm

DIY all the way, all the time. I say, I would rather break it my self then pay to have it broke :cry:

dgeist · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2010 5:07 pm

First of all, the MAF has little (if anything) to do with the turbo, they're just looking for things that MIGHT be wrong to tell you. It's used by the engine controller to actuate the EGR and a couple other little things. Feel free to explain to them how the combustion process in a diesel is constrained by the fuel and it operates in an air surplus, therefore Mass Air Flow is pretty meaningless for combustion calculations.

If you're still under warranty and don't think your EGR will choke, tell them to plug it back in, clear the codes and try diagnosing the problem again. That should at least show them that it's not the culprit.

It IS possible that the boost sensor (Also caller Manifold Air Pressure Sensor) is bad or dirty or damaged. It attaches with allen screws on the top of the intake manifold just to the side of the fuel filter head and slightly obscured by the plastic guide that snakes wires over the top of the head. It's possible that they damaged it during the course of the work (or the wiring, or just got it dirty and didn't clean it out) but the replacement shouldn't be TOO expensive. Here's some good shots of the MAP:http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/mapsensor.htm

If it IS bad, you can get a new one and here's a place that sells it for about $100 http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.0T/Search/0281002437/ES3417/

Dan

linewarbr · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2010 5:12 pm

If the MAF and MAP sensors are both good, then I would look at the vacuum system that controls the pitch of the turbo vanes. The module is behind the airbox, with the small filter attached to it.

AndySRT · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2010 5:17 pm

thanks for the ideas. I will be getting the CRD back as soon as I have a ride to the dealer. I guess i get to freeze tonight trying to figure it out. I wish i had the time to do the timing belt myself.

I will post a update as soon as i get it figured out.

Thanks

Andy

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:39 pm

There's also another sensor on the side of the airbox
- it tends to get overlooked after maintenance - but it'll kill performance too.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:43 pm

Sounds to me like they got the cam(s) a little out of time and triggered limp mode. I think cam and crank timing are compared in the ECM.

AndySRT · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2010 10:02 pm

ok i just scanned it and got P1189 and p0102. the 102 i exspected and the 1189 I have no idea what it is, anyone know what 1189 is?

linewarbr · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2010 11:39 pm

Here is the thread in the tech section with a list of KJ DTC's: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=40073

Unfortunately, P1189 is not in that list. But I could swear I, or someone else on here was having that code about a month ago.

vegiH · **Posted:** Wed Feb 10, 2010 12:01 am

p1189 is from the air intake regulater on the side of the air box.............when I had my timing belt done @ 88K it went into limp because no regulated fuel flow from sitting in pieces for awhile(see my timing belt thread).........after an hour of purging fuel line with mini-vac and busted knuckles I reset codes and it didn't come back.....I had issues with rocker torq specs contact VM in detroit if YOU want to retorque to spec in series.....I spoke with "mike" who was very helpful.................I feel for you as I did a broke glow plug in head (4 glowplugs),turbo,timing belt,and rocker arms in one sitting......when I got it back and it was all good it was like a rebirth of my crd and she has not hiccuped since........goodluck raising her from the dead :dead:

AndySRT · **Posted:** Wed Feb 10, 2010 1:15 am

ok I just took it for a test drive and noticed that it wont go above 40 and cuts out only when I am WOT, any other position on the throttle is ok builds boost and does everything correctly.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Did you check the wiring that does to the air box (2 sensors, MAF and airbox inlet pressure). Both of these are showing open circuits. The inlet pressure is what is most likely causing the issue. It is on the side of the aibox and has a little connector with a bad retention clip. This may not be fully seated to make contact. If the retention clip is broke, wrap it with electrical tape to secure the connection.

linewarbr · **Posted:** Wed Feb 10, 2010 10:48 am

Yes indeed, that's it! P1189 is the little sensor on the front-right of the airbox with the Mercedes-Benz logo on it.

AndySRT · **Posted:** Wed Feb 10, 2010 2:13 pm

It was that sensor, plugged it back in and everything is back to normal.

Thanks for all the help

Andy

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Feb 10, 2010 2:44 pm

AndySRT wrote:

It was that sensor, plugged it back in and everything is back to normal.

Thanks for all the help

Andy

I'd give the dealer a mouthful now that you know what it is.

Big Montana · **Posted:** Wed Feb 10, 2010 5:34 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

AndySRT wrote:

It was that sensor, plugged it back in and everything is back to normal.

Thanks for all the help

Andy

I'd give the dealer a mouthful now that you know what it is.

Idiots! I hope you didn't pay for extra work. I wouldn't go back there again.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Feb 11, 2010 2:28 pm

Here's a fun tidbit... After reading this thread, I decided to poke at that sensor on my CRD, to see if it had any effect on the power loss problem I've been having.

BOY DID IT!

I unplugged the little beastie, and as soon as I pulled out of the parking lot where I did it, I had easily TWICE the power of before.

Yea, I was in a hard limp mode, so limited to low speed in general... BUT, the acceleration power is MUCH better.

Plugged the stupid thing back in, and it is still performing better, and where I had been running EGT temps of 1000 to 1100 when at cruise of 65-70mph... Now it has dropped to 800!

I'm still not convinced that the sensor is working perfectly, but it DOES seem to be directly connected to the engine power... What exactly does that sensor do, and how does it relate to the performance / boost / fueling levels? Next step is to clean it on both sides, if that doesn't help... Then replacement.

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