CRD Motor Mount photo request

dgeist · **Posted:** Wed Feb 03, 2010 6:23 pm

Does anyone have a photo showing the CRD motor mounts? I want to check them for slop as I'm hearing a clunk any time I apply or change the engine load (which screams motor mount) but I want to know what I need to prep for and how much time to budget before I ask for time off from my better half to work on it.

Dan

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Feb 03, 2010 7:06 pm

dgeist wrote:

Does anyone have a photo showing the CRD motor mounts? I want to check them for slop as I'm hearing a clunk any time I apply or change the engine load (which screams motor mount) but I want to know what I need to prep for and how much time to budget before I ask for time off from my better half to work on it.

Dan

What kind of photo are you looking for? Doesn't seem like just a photo of the mount by itself does much good.

These photos, though not of a KJ, or using the KJ mount, shows the locations of them, to help you find your way. These are the photos from me installing the engine in my MJ:

(this mount most closely resembles the KJ mount, but is shorter)

You can also try just tightening the nut that holds them in.

dgeist · **Posted:** Wed Feb 03, 2010 9:27 pm

So, the L-shaped bracket bolts to the block at multiple points and essentially "hangs" on the brass-colored rod and bushing assembly, right? The black-threaded rod with the nut in the first picture is what I should look for to be loose (looking up from the bottom)?

Dan

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Thu Feb 04, 2010 1:39 am

dgeist wrote:

So, the L-shaped bracket bolts to the block at multiple points and essentially "hangs" on the brass-colored rod and bushing assembly, right? The black-threaded rod with the nut in the first picture is what I should look for to be loose (looking up from the bottom)?

Dan

In the picture shown the brass color would be towards the top, the engine puts the mount in compression from the top, and the bottom of the mount sits in the KJ.

Don't look for a brass color though, I don't seem to have a picture of KJ mounts, while they are similar to the brass one pictured they are larger, have a silver colored threaded rod, and also have a heat shield on the top.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Thu Feb 04, 2010 1:49 am

Here are actual KJ mounts:

Silver towards top, as you can see they have a shape in them so they sit into the engine bracket in only one orientation, also, that pin on the bottom one is meant to keep them from rotating all the way through when you remove them.

dgeist · **Posted:** Thu Feb 04, 2010 11:19 am

Thanks. Looks like it'll be easy enough to spot once the skid plate is off. Hopefully it'll be intact and just loose or perhaps with a missing nut.

Dan

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Feb 04, 2010 12:31 pm

Also be sure to check the transmission mount if loose or broken, for it would have the same problem as you are experiancing

Biosmell · **Joined:** Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:06 pm **Posts:** 32

I bought my CRD with the clunk, which had me worried at first, but I figured I could fix it as I couldn't "see" anything wrong and it only had 30,000 on it. Unless the mount is damaged (torn or crushed), It has most likely just been rattled loose. It would seem that they were torqued to gasser specs and for the diesel you need to torque it until it nearly breaks. It is easy and takes about 10-15 minutes from above with the wheels on the ground. You will need a long (18") extension and a flex knuckle.

Here is the link to my post here:http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=49058&p=543749#p543749

Have fun!

El Jefe de Biosmell,
at your service!

Biosmell · **Joined:** Fri Jan 08, 2010 3:06 pm **Posts:** 32

(1) Disconnect the negative battery cable.
(2) Remove the cooling fan and shroud.
(3) Loosen the upper engine mount fastener at the
engine mount bracket (Fig. 119).
(4) Raise and support the vehicle.
(5) Loosen the lower engine mount fastener.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to damage the wiring
harnesses above the transmission when lifting
the engine.
(6) Using a suitable jack, raise and support the
engine
(1) Position the engine mount and hand tighten
the engine mount bracket bolts. Tighten bolts to 60
N·m (44 lbs. ft.) (Fig. 120).
(2) Lower the vehicle and tighten the upper engine
mount fastener to 110 N.m (82 ft. lbs.).
(3) Raise the engine.
(4) Tighten the engine mount bracket bolts to 60
N·m (44 lbs. ft.), starting with the right uppe,r then
left upper bolt, continuing to the right lower and finishing
with the left lower bolt. (Fig. 120).
(5) Tighten the engine mount lower fastener to 110
N.m (82 ft. lbs.).
(6) Lower the vehicle.
(7) Install the cooling fan and shroud (Refer to 7 -
COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR FAN - INSTALLATION).
(8) Connect the negative battery cable.

Hjalti · **Posted:** Fri Feb 05, 2010 5:44 am

Hi there,

Here is my motor mount saga and some photos, I tore the thing apart to see what was causing the rattle: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=44296&p=522613#p522613

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Feb 05, 2010 10:43 am

It's page 9-231 and 9-232 in the 2005 FSM for reference (stupid me for not looking there first).

Is removal of the radiator fan and shroud purely so things don't bind if you're jacking the engine? I haven't crawled under yet, but I can't imagine you actually need to do that to reach the mounts.

Dan

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Fri Feb 05, 2010 12:42 pm

dgeist wrote:

Is removal of the radiator fan and shroud purely so things don't bind if you're jacking the engine?

Dan

It's so the fan don't get pushed through the shroud and radiator when jacking up the engine. That will damage the fan, shroud, radiator and fan clutch. Better to be safe that sorry. :JEEPIN:

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri Feb 05, 2010 1:09 pm

BlackLibertyCRD wrote:

dgeist wrote:

Is removal of the radiator fan and shroud purely so things don't bind if you're jacking the engine?

Dan

It's so the fan don't get pushed through the shroud and radiator when jacking up the engine. That will damage the fan, shroud, radiator and fan clutch. Better to be safe that sorry. :JEEPIN:

Right, unless I'm just inspecting and tightening it, in which case it would be a complete waste of time

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Fri Feb 05, 2010 10:00 pm

dgeist wrote:

BlackLibertyCRD wrote:

dgeist wrote:

Is removal of the radiator fan and shroud purely so things don't bind if you're jacking the engine?

Dan

It's so the fan don't get pushed through the shroud and radiator when jacking up the engine. That will damage the fan, shroud, radiator and fan clutch. Better to be safe that sorry. :JEEPIN:

Right, unless I'm just inspecting and tightening it, in which case it would be a complete waste of time

Well you wouldn't be jacking the engine to just tighten the upper and lower nuts but the question included jacking the engine sooooo :goink:

jk

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sat Feb 06, 2010 1:09 pm

I replaced my passenger side mount without disconnecting any of that stuff, you just have to be careful not to jack the engine too high. I lifted it a little with a jack and block of wood under the oil pan (since it is structural), then wedged another block of wood between the pan and the crossmember. That took enough pressure off the mount that I could get the mount and bracket off and get the new one in. There was barely enough room to get it up into that space.

Edit: It was actually the passenger side.

dgeist · **Posted:** Mon Feb 08, 2010 10:28 am

So, I had a chance to get the lib up on ramps and drop the skids last night. I was able to put a hand on each of the motor mounts and feel around for damage. Both looked good with the exception of a little rubber flaking around the perimeter (probably due to excess material in the mold, not structural).

Both were still bolted in tight (both top and bottom) and I couldn't see any lateral separation in the bushing itself, so I'm back to investigating what else could make the clunk sound. BTW, there's a little play in the front driveshaft, but I don't think it's more than normal (a degree or two) and the transmission mounts look to be in good shape as well. I also checked all the CV boots and such and all looked to be intact.

Any other thoughts? Brake pads thin and slopping around in the calipers? CV joints grinding even though the boots are intact and I'm not high-mileage?

Dan

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Feb 08, 2010 11:19 am

dgeist wrote:

So, I had a chance to get the lib up on ramps and drop the skids last night. I was able to put a hand on each of the motor mounts and feel around for damage. Both looked good with the exception of a little rubber flaking around the perimeter (probably due to excess material in the mold, not structural).

Both were still bolted in tight (both top and bottom) and I couldn't see any lateral separation in the bushing itself, so I'm back to investigating what else could make the clunk sound. BTW, there's a little play in the front driveshaft, but I don't think it's more than normal (a degree or two) and the transmission mounts look to be in good shape as well. I also checked all the CV boots and such and all looked to be intact.

Any other thoughts? Brake pads thin and slopping around in the calipers? CV joints grinding even though the boots are intact and I'm not high-mileage?

Dan

The motor mount can breakdown internally, thats what happened to CATCRD, and leave no visible indication from outside.

dgeist · **Posted:** Mon Feb 08, 2010 12:07 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

The motor mount can breakdown internally, thats what happened to CATCRD, and leave no visible indication from outside.

Err... any way to diagnose/troubleshoot that? Just replace them and hope for the best? The operation is non-trivial in the driveway (for me) and with the economy, the 2 closest jeep dealers are now bye-bye... it's a major trip to get to anyone that has any experience working on the lib.

Dan

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Feb 08, 2010 12:35 pm

dgeist wrote:

Err... any way to diagnose/troubleshoot that?

I dunno, I'm not the one to be asking, hopefully CATCRD will chime in or PM him.

Hjalti · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2010 6:13 am

Quote:

Err... any way to diagnose/troubleshoot that?

You will have to unbolt the engine mount and if it has internal damage it will rattle when shaken.

CRD Motor Mount photo request

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