I started Operation Timing Belt after putting the kids to bed and I'm down to the crank pulley. I've removed the four 10mm bolts around the perimiter but it won't budge. Should I need a puller for this or am I missing something? All the pictures and diagrams (thanks ChileanKJ and GDE for your great writeups) lead me to believe it's a flange and just rust welded in place but I don't want to break anything...

Thanks

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1998 TJ Gasser - Just for fun!

Sold in January 2012:
2005 Sport CRD
New to me March, 2007 w/22k miles
165,000 miles and still going strong
Factory Tow Package, Added Courtesy Lamps,
New Style Mopar Fuel Head,
Cooper Discoverer ATR
Mopar Slush Mats (JUNK!), Fumoto Oil and T-Case Drain Valves

Yep, just four bolts the pulls straight off. Should come off relatively easy, maybe try some pb blaster or other type of penetrating lubricant.

Of note: All the idler pulleys are left hand thread...so turn clockwise to remove them.

If you have any questions, just let me know. I just did this, including the waterpump and thermostat. Make sure you lock the crank in place and the camshafts. When you loosen the camshaft pulleys make sure you don't put all the torque on the little lock pins. Hold the cam gears in place with something...preferably the correct tool if you have it. If you are doing the waterpump, you have to remove the rear timing cover. There are a few hidden bolts, make sure you get them all and it should come off relatively easy. Don't pry the rear cover off, if it doesn't come easy look for another bolt...don't want to break it.

Check some of the other posts on this topic...

The first link addresses the differences between some of the writeups and which are correct, the second link has some good detailed waterpump info in my post:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=51396
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=49354

I'm about to leave on a road trip tomorrow morning, but I'll PM you my cell number in case you have any questions.

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

After the PB Blaster has some time to work, tap the pulley with a dead blow hammer.
Just make sure your head is not in the way or you will have some Art Work on your face if the pulley hits you in the face, been there had it happen on a Jetta.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Thanks for the assitance guys. I gently pryed it off in a circular fashion and off it came.

Took me 4 tries to get the gears/crank/fuel pump all lined up but I finally figured it out. In total it took the better part of two afternoons & evenings but it's done and she's back to rattling away like a good diesel. And I learned a bit along the way.

_________________
1998 TJ Gasser - Just for fun!

Sold in January 2012:
2005 Sport CRD
New to me March, 2007 w/22k miles
165,000 miles and still going strong
Factory Tow Package, Added Courtesy Lamps,
New Style Mopar Fuel Head,
Cooper Discoverer ATR
Mopar Slush Mats (JUNK!), Fumoto Oil and T-Case Drain Valves