Brake issues

kjfishman · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 4:27 pm

At less than 50000 the rear brakes wore out and a left rear caliper was replaced. The fronts were fine now at 83,000 the fronts are show enough wear to replace. This suggest an issue with the proportioning valve as the normal pattern is to replace fronts twice as often as the rear. Has any anyone else seen this wear pattern?

Also looks kike the left front rotor must drag more than the right front as there is a big difference in wear. I am going to run all this by the service manger since I have the 7 yr 100k warranty. I was going to pop new pads in front but will wait till I can show the service manger to see how they handle this.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Fri Mar 05, 2010 4:45 pm

At 65K miles, my fronts show even wear but they are ahead of the rears on wear. I had the rears replaced at 10K miles because of the screaching noise when damp. I'd say the fronts have 3/16 pad left and the rears a little more than that. Most if not all of our miles are highway. Maybe 500 off road.

vtdog · **Joined:** Fri Sep 30, 2005 11:27 am **Posts:** 640

Had brakes done at 72k. The fronts just needed new pads. The rears pads and rotors.

Larry R. · **Joined:** Sun Jan 21, 2007 1:35 am **Posts:** 92

Rear at 51,000, front at 62,000, rotors are junk from factory. Pads oultlasted rotors!

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Sat Mar 06, 2010 12:45 am

I thought there was an issue with the E brake residually putting pressure on the rotors wearing them prematurely???

mikey1273 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 06, 2010 3:16 am

I have not had mine long enough. my front brakes do squeel a bit sometimes. not in a few weeks though.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Sat Mar 06, 2010 8:25 am

Yeah, the rear OEM rotors are junk. They are rusted and badly pitted after 45k. Will be replacing them shortly. The fronts are still OK though.

jinstall · **Posted:** Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:14 am

CRD Joe wrote:

I thought there was an issue with the E brake residually putting pressure on the rotors wearing them prematurely???

The e-brake is a brake shoe that rides the inside of the brake rote hat not the brake rotor itself.

Also on the note of the pads wearing out fasster than the front, my observation probably explains this. The ESC in the majority of th etime, works the rear rotors when engauged. this would explain the faster wear and why people that do not go off road generally do not have the issue with the rears running out faster than the front. Under heavy braking the rear has a tendancy to get out of line and casue the ESC to brake the rear more so than the front. Also being a solid rotor and not vented, the rear cannot disapate heat like a vented rotor and again causes more heat wich in turn cause more wear on the rotor and pads.

Very rarely does a day go by when the ESC light does not flash on my KJ when I am driving it. I drive it very hard in all types of conditions.

Trav1s · **Posted:** Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:32 am

jinstall wrote:

CRD Joe wrote:

I thought there was an issue with the E brake residually putting pressure on the rotors wearing them prematurely???

The e-brake is a brake shoe that rides the inside of the brake rote hat not the brake rotor itself.

Also on the note of the pads wearing out fasster than the front, my observation probably explains this. The ESC in the majority of th etime, works the rear rotors when engauged. this would explain the faster wear and why people that do not go off road generally do not have the issue with the rears running out faster than the front. Under heavy braking the rear has a tendancy to get out of line and casue the ESC to brake the rear more so than the front. Also being a solid rotor and not vented, the rear cannot disapate heat like a vented rotor and again causes more heat wich in turn cause more wear on the rotor and pads.

Very rarely does a day go by when the ESC light does not flash on my KJ when I am driving it. I drive it very hard in all types of conditions.

Excellent observation and a fair deduction. Thanks for sharing!

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 06, 2010 12:24 pm

Changed my rears at ~47k
Changed my fronts at ~58k & 75k (lots of towing between those pad changes)

jinstall · **Posted:** Sat Mar 06, 2010 12:49 pm

Trav1s wrote:

jinstall wrote:

CRD Joe wrote:

I thought there was an issue with the E brake residually putting pressure on the rotors wearing them prematurely???

The e-brake is a brake shoe that rides the inside of the brake rote hat not the brake rotor itself.

Also on the note of the pads wearing out fasster than the front, my observation probably explains this. The ESC in the majority of th etime, works the rear rotors when engauged. this would explain the faster wear and why people that do not go off road generally do not have the issue with the rears running out faster than the front. Under heavy braking the rear has a tendancy to get out of line and casue the ESC to brake the rear more so than the front. Also being a solid rotor and not vented, the rear cannot disapate heat like a vented rotor and again causes more heat wich in turn cause more wear on the rotor and pads.

Very rarely does a day go by when the ESC light does not flash on my KJ when I am driving it. I drive it very hard in all types of conditions.

Excellent observation and a fair deduction. Thanks for sharing!

No problem I try to contribute as much as possible here. That is the great thing about small forums like this, it remains a information bank and not a piss fest.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:00 am

My 06 has the Electronic Stability Control, translated into English= rear brake pad trashing program.
Now I use 4X4 when the roads are slick.
Plus my Cooper ATR 215 85 R16 Truck Tires don't slip like the stock GoodYears did.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sun Mar 07, 2010 12:43 am

Mine went 85k (about 10% left) when I pad slapped it front and rear. Stops like new, no noise. :JEEPIN:

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

I checked yes, BUT, the right rear had a stuck caliper that caused the pad to wear out and kill the rotor. Since that fix, the rears look good but I have had to put a set of pads on the front.

ac5501 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:09 pm

Bought with 23k on odometer. At about 40k rear driver brake started making noise and failing to release all the way.

Ended up replacing 1 caliper both rotors and pads. Had a quick pad change done on the front brakes for good measure

Almost 92k now. No brake issues. Lots of pad left the last time I checked. Occasional squeal when first driving in the rain but that's about it

darinb · **Posted:** Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:25 pm

Changed front at 70k.. still have the stock pads and rotors on the rear. this makes me want to check them closely tho!

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Thu Mar 11, 2010 12:34 pm

My rear pads went at about 50K. I replaced my front pads and rotors because the front rotors warped at about 70K. I still had about 30% of the front pads remaining. My stability control only gets used a couple weeks per year when I'm in NY in the winter. I've never seen it light up during the low speed off-road I occasionally do in FL.

NJCRD · **Posted:** Fri Mar 12, 2010 4:57 pm

My left rear caliper was frozen around 32k.
Raised hell at the dealer and eventually they did new pads, rotors and replaced the 2 rear caliper for around 700, changed my oil and gave me a loaner.
I have found out that the rears don't have as much material on them as they did in the days we're all use to.
Done to save weight and $. I've since replaced with frozen rotors and mopar pads with no issues.

flman · **Posted:** Fri Mar 12, 2010 6:10 pm

My Freightliner FL50 wears the same way. Back pads go first. Do you want the front end of your jeep to do a nose dive every time you apply the brakes, or do you want it to stop in an even pattern?

Brake issues

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