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 Post subject: 192º Thermostat - Parts Diagram/dimensions added page 1
PostPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 11:22 pm 
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Since this has turned to an ongoing remanufacturing process and has gained a lot of interest I have moved alot of important information to this first post such as the description of the final design, pictures, cost, part numbers, options, specs, and the current waiting list (updated weekly to bimonthly depending on changes):

I make these a few at a time and in my spare time only and there is a waiting list that I will post below.

I will be doing more work on these on the weekends when I can though I have a lot of commitment here in Australia and little free time. Sorry I can't get to you all sooner, but I will as soon as I can.

Since many of you have requested information, dimensions, diagrams, etc, Here's the requested information for the housing:

Required new parts for conversion:

- Water outlet from a 98-01 Kia Sephia 1.8L DOHC

- Thermostat 192º or 180º for a 95-99 Hyundai Accent 1.5L DOHC or SOHC (same)

- Radiator Hose (upper) for a 93-97 Dodge intrepid 3.3L (upper hose-cut to fit)

Diagram and dimensions of my insert and intermediate plate


Please note that the gasket material for the intermediate plate must be 1/8" thick 70A durometer hardness (preferably Buna-N Rubber) to set the correct height of the thermostat to match the bypass port when it is open. This has been used to calculate the dimensions of the bypass port insert height when the gasket is installed and compressed. If you choose to use a different material or thickness you will have to adjust the height of the bypass port insert accordingly

Image

UPDATED REQUEST WAITING LIST (last update Aug 2017) (LIST CLOSED FOR NOW)
geordi - mar28 (Unit shipped out 30 Dec 2010 - Core out on loan)
tdiwyse - apr 1 (core donated to project)
stoutdog - apr 4 (core received [donated by papaindigo - THANKS!], payment received, unit shipped)
squeeto - apr 4 (core received, [donated to squeeto by Europachris - THANKS!] payment received, unit shipped 27 Sep 2010)
nelson15 - apr27 (unit paid (inc core charge), completed and sent out)(core received/refunded)
bugnout - apr27 (core received - Paid and unit sent out APR 2013- Thanks!)
dgeist - apr27 (core received) - Paid & Shipped 3 Feb 2014
CATCRD - apr29 (core received) - Declined to purchase, Unit will go to next person that does not have a core and wants a unit.
mikey1273 - may1
papaindigo - may9 (core received) - Paid and shipped 20 Nov 2014
yakers - july14
fastrob - july31 (core received)
kdlewis1975 - aug8
westfork - aug13
Gerge - aug16
CRD Joe - 19 Aug
arengant - 07 sep
crawdad-480 - 15 Sep (core received)
Unclebob9 - 15 Sep
fnordmorph - 19 Sep
dthdcrd - 24sep
Buster - 24 Sep (core received)
kccrd - 24 sep
TJ2 - 27 Sep 2010 (core received)
Drewd - 28 Sep 2010
racertracer - 07 Oct 2010
mudpup226 - 09 Oct 2010
bigbillyboy - 18 Oct 2010
gsrjax - 23 Oct 2010
Roostre - 27 Oct 2010
striperman36 - 27 Oct 2010
MACKJ - 30 Oct 2010
Sir Sam - 01 Nov 2010 (core recieved [donated for sir sam from Joe Romas])
ColoCRD - 01 Nov 2010 (core received)
AJN - 01 Nov 2010
StanCRD - 05 Nov 2010
Scott Langohr - 15 Nov 2010
Hydraulic Jack - 15 Nov 2010
audiboy86 - 18 Nov 2010
FormerlyBankNote4x4 - 24 Nov 2010
ebenflow - 24 Nov 2010
snowman_crd - 24 Nov 2010
Rich - 08 Dec 2010
WolverineFW - 08 Dec 2010
ChesterCRD - 09 Dec 2010 (core received)
jdorris - 17 Dec 2010
castnblast - 23 Dec 2010 (core received) - Paid and Shipped 5 June 2017
KYMidnight - 25 Dec 2010
Greasey Bob - 30 Dec 2010
grywlfbg - 01 Jan 2011 (Cor received)
SargeIndustries - 10 Jan 2011
06PeakBagger - 12 Jan 2011
AZ CRD - 15 Jan 2011 (core received)
taroo - 15 Jan 2011
ATXKJ - 16 Jan 2011 (Core received)
hankdz - 16 Jan 2011
DocB - 16 Jan 2011 (New Core received, Payment received, Payment Refunded, donated new core)
0ilburner - 16 Jan 2011 (Core received)
Tim_Z - 17 Jan 2011 (core received)
woodtick - 21 Jan 2011
turbobill - 02 Feb 2011
scubadvr1999 - 03 Feb 2011
ColoCRDx2 - 06 Feb 2011 (Core Received)
painemann - 08 Feb 2011
C's CRD - 22 Feb 2011
GreenDieselEngineering - 22 Feb 2011 (2 cores received)
luckynumber5 - 24 Feb 2011
Mr wolcott - 25 Feb 2011

Please note: If you donate your core for me to modify the core then becomes my property to modify. In other words, once I have my time into the core by machining it, you cannot have the core back for free. If you donate it for me to modify and then decide that you don't want to buy the finished product, the core remains my property to sell to someone else.

(remember you do not have to send a core first, it just speeds up production of your unit as it will be done with the very next batch)

If you are not on here and should be please let me know so I can get you in the right spot. Also, if you donated a core and I do not have you on the list let me know so I can give credit to you for your generosity. If you have sent me a core for re-manufacturing also make sure it says (core sent) by your name. If not let me know so I can verify and update accordingly.

Remember I will ONLY add people to the list if contacted by email (awdv8@yahoo.com) though the list is closed for now due to slow production in Australia.

CORE DONATED LIST:
RTstabler51 (donated for R&D, currently a rolling core used in production, THANKS!)
Allen M. (donated for R&D, currently a rolling core used in production, THANKS!)
onthehunt (donated for R&D, currently a rolling core used in production, THANKS!)
LibertyCRD (donated for R&D, currently a rolling core used in production, THANKS!)
bugnout (core for reman, has xtra core to donate after replacement, THANKS!)
UFO (core donated for production, THANKS!)

*There are still some cores I haven't got on the list yet, I have received some and still need to add to the list.

Also, please use your user name for the return address on your packages so I know who the name on the box matches to on the forum.

Thanks to everyone that donated cores!! This project wouldn't have happened if you were not so kind and it is VERY appreciated!!!

Here's a quick preview of the final product, more photo's below will show the unit and how it was assembled.
Image

Here's the full parts list of the kit - comes with the thermostat installed in unit (torqued down to 50 inch lbs) and ready to go:

- Thermostat of your choice (192ºF or 180ºF)
- Heavy duty reusable gaskets (High Temp Buna-N rubber, is reusable and doesn't wick water through material and provides better seal)
- Stainless steel hardware (2 SS nuts/2 SS washers/2 SS studs installed and permanently sealed)
- Lower aluminum port insert (part of second design to fully block off bypass port when thermostat is open...press fit in housing)
- Intermediate adapter aluminum plate (reseals original roll crimped edge to ensure there are no leaks there)
- Water outlet housing (purchased new from dealership wholesale because there is not a after market source for this yet)
- Upper radiator hose (required due to different water outlet size)
- OEM gasket (to block)
- Hose clamps
- Part numbers & matching vehicle applications for future radiator hose and thermostat replacements so you can by your own replacement parts at your local parts store.

The cost to remanufacture/machine and to cover metal, new parts listed above, tool costs, etc is $165 + shipping. Also an additional $100 core charge if a core is not supplied.

I accept paypal or check, money order, etc as long as it clears. Buyer pays Paypal fees. I do accept checks/money orders as an alternative.

There is an ADDITIONAL core charge of $100 to ensure I get your old housing back (refunded when I receive original housing) if a core is not supplied ahead of time and I have to remanufacture one of the rolling stock cores. This $100 core charge will be refunded upon receipt of your old thermostat unit.

Thermostat temps are available in 180ºF and 192ºF.

Brass fittings are available for $12 each or $24 for both to replace the plastic ports if yours are damaged or if you simply want to upgrade to brass for longevity. The little 90º plastic elbow is a frequent one to break so be careful removing the hose on this port if you do not want to have to replace it.

Additional thermostats are $10 each for 192º or $12 for 180º F (cost at Autozone) - As I mentioned I am not here to make tonz of money off you guys, I was a fellow CRD owner, started and completed this mod to my own jeep before selling it for a grand cherokee that I was able to lift higher. I have a soft spot for the CRD's and upon request I have decided to continue this project to help other CRD owners. :) I will also include a vehicle application list and part numbers with the unit so you can replace parts if needed or buy your own spare thermostat if you like.

Please note that the batches sometimes take three months or longer to complete depending on size of the batch and the free time I have. If you already have an extra core you can send it to me and it will be done with the next batch I do. Please do not pull your thermostat causing your vehicle to be inoperative and send it to me expecting I do it right away. I respect the waiting list and will do people in order with the rolling stock for the people that do not have cores. I will remanufacture cores sent to me along side the batches I am currently working on so turn around time will be quicker if you send me a core to work on.

Here are some photo's of the finished assembly:

There was a lot that went into this latest design and it performs flawlessly. It also includes New upper radiator hose, clamps, and all the necessities to bolt it up and be on your way (except antifreeze).

I love the new gaskets, hopefully you should never have to replace them because they come off easily and are thick/durable enough not to tear, etc. The OEM gasket to the block should never have to be replaced/removed again (unless it fails) since you will not ever have to remove that part of the housing again. The temp sending unit can stay installed from now on since it does not have to be removed for a thermostat swap, the hoses all stay attached also, so a thermostat swap is simply 2 bolts now and slap it back together (torque nuts to roughly 50 inch lbs). If you tow and want a cooler t-stat for summer and the warmer one for winter its a quick swap now.

So that's it, heres some pictures:

Here is the bypass port insert that gets machined and pressed in
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Machining the intermediate plate
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Port insert
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This gets pressed into the bottom of the unit for the correct bypass port height

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This shows the bypass port insert in the unit as well as the gasket installed
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Thermostat goes on top
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Aluminum intermediate plate is recessed for thermostat ans centers it
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After the thermostat goes in the intermediate plate goes on with the recess down to center the thermostat

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Assembled
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Pressure testing to ensure there are no leaks prior to shipment

I used a PVC pipe end plug and machined the plastic thinner and installed a tire valve stem for the water outlet hose. I used 1/4" plate steel and a custom made gasket to block off the rectangle port. I bought a 12mm x 1.5 pitch bolt, cut it to length and used a rubber washer to seal off the sending unit port. I used plastic tubing so I could see pressure building. I cut larger rubber hose to put between the clamps and plastic tubing to ensure the plastic nipples would not be damaged by uneven clamp force.
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I used a clear hose so I could see the pressure building
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Here it is with no pressure
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Here it is as I pressurize the unit
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As you can see here it is pressurized to 30 psi
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After I build 30 psi, I remove the compresser
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From the back you can see the custom cut bolt with rubber washer installed
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A close up of the inflated plastic tube. Easy way to verify pressure remains
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Lastly, the whole unit is submerged and checked for leaks with the 5 gallon bucket test
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After passing the quality check, the unit is completely dried, the apparatus removed, and all ports are plugged with single piece clean paper rags to ensure no foreign packing material enders the unit during shipping. This way dissassembly is not required before installation on the vehicle.
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Installed in the CRD Jeep Liberty
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A pic of the dash with the new unit installed with the 192* thermostat.
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Scantool shows an operating temp 190.5ºF at a constant cruise with torque converter locked (192ºF thermostat installed). :) Temp briefly went up to 199ºF at a full throttle highway merge from a stop to ~80 mph.

Well, there you go....quality testing at its best! :BANANA:

- Mark

Below is the original post which is interesting to read through (the history of how this all got started) and has some good photos:

So we all know that if your Temp gauge is reading low we most likely need to change out the thermostat or we're killing our fuel economy...mine is roughly at the 3/8 mark painted on the pic below (thanks GDE for the pic). They run just over $100, and are a one piece unit rather than a simple thermostat.

Image

It is obvious to me that I will not find another like it for cheaper, But I was thinking of cutting the end of the thermostat housing off, machining the rim and seeing if theres enough room to drill/tap some bolt holes and install a more normal housing and a regular thermostat from a parts store. This would allow for easy and cheap future maintenance. What do you all think?

Thanks to RTStabler51 for sending me his old thermostat, I can take a further look into this idea. If nothing else I get to destroy an old part and get some cool pics in the name of science. LOL

I just took some more pictures on my camera. Heres some internal views for those that are interested and I will post more pics when i get it cut open. :D

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:frankie: More to come when I cut it open. :frankie:

OK, here it is:

:BINGO:

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Thats it, so now everyone knows what it looks like.

So to convert the assembly to an easy maintenance type you would have to machine the surface flat, drill and tap holes, find a thermostat that would work, and a water outlet that would bolt up just to make it easy to buy an $11 thermostat every time it goes out. With the change interval for the thermostat probably every 50k to 100k miles I think I'd rather pay the $100 than do all that work. Just the same, I will go to the salvage yard tomorrow and have a look around to see if theres anything that jumps out at me. I may not find anything, but it's worth taking look. :)

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Last edited by kapalczynski on Wed Aug 16, 2017 1:53 pm, edited 90 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:01 am 
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with that off fly cut the surface down to give a good finish, use an off the shelf thermo outlet for a SBC like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 793wt_1167

Machine recess for new thermostat in fly cut surface.

At least, thats what my plan was. I went through all this about 2 years ago when I had to replace mine.

(it would also be possible to remove the upper part along the swaging line and insert a new upper piece that was pre-machined, and then have the unit tig welded together, it would allow the part to be serviced for many years to come.

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 9:25 am 
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kapalczynski wrote:

So to convert the assembly to an easy maintenance type you would have to machine the surface flat, drill and tap holes, find a thermostat that would work, and a water outlet that would bolt up just to make it easy to buy a 10.00 thermostat every time it goes out. With the change interval for the thermostat probably every 50k to 100k miles I think I'd rather pay the $100 than do all that work. Just the same, I will go to the salvage yard tomorrow and have a look around to see if theres anything that jumps out at me. I may not find anything, but it's worth taking look. :)

after seeing that, I agree. Once I figured out how to take it off, its probably a 45 min job now. It took me longer to scrap the gasket material off than anything.

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 12:24 pm 
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Wow, thanks for doing that. Very cool to see how they over-engineered that thing, its yet another example of why non-mechanics shouldn't be allowed near a CAD drafting system to design a car.

Read this for more about that subject:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/industry/4328167.html?series=56

As for the CRD... Does the thermostat always fail open? I'm getting toward 80k right now, both my original engine and the replacement were right in the same ballpark. While the replacement was a little "younger" in mileage (about 8k IIRC) it doesn't change anything - I'm still coming due on the alternator pulley, and I know the thermo is gonna happen eventually.

Driving around right now, it never gets above the "176 deg" mark according to the first image in this thread. Should I be concerned yet?

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 6:36 pm 
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Mine has sat at the 176 mark since new even when towing the camper.

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 7:23 pm 
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Mine failed open and the temperature was significantly less than 176. Now with the new one, the temp sticks at 176 just like Joe.

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 8:30 pm 
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Sir Sam wrote:
with that off fly cut the surface down to give a good finish, use an off the shelf thermo outlet for a SBC like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 793wt_1167

Machine recess for new thermostat in fly cut surface.

At least, thats what my plan was. I went through all this about 2 years ago when I had to replace mine.

(it would also be possible to remove the upper part along the swaging line and insert a new upper piece that was pre-machined, and then have the unit tig welded together, it would allow the part to be serviced for many years to come.


That specific thermostat housing you showed was for a small block chevy which has the holes to mount too far appart. In fact I looked at every outlet in stock at advanced auto (about 15 different ones) and none of them would work. I do know that some of the smaller cars like hondas and toyotas have the smaller housings that may work. I did not get a chance to run by the salvage yard to look at some of the smaller ones for ideas yet today, so maybe tomorrow :)

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Last edited by kapalczynski on Fri Mar 12, 2010 8:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 8:36 pm 
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Joe Romas wrote:
Mine has sat at the 176 mark since new even when towing the camper.


That makes some sense. The thermostat has a 80* Celsius opening temp which is 176* F.

My Corvette with a 160* thermostat sits at 168* exactly at a flat cruise at 75 mph on the highway so you would think it would sit a coupple degrees higher than the opening temp. It could be the the mechanical fan that is ALWAYS moving some air or itr could be that the "80* C" is actually the temp at full open and not starting to open at that temp...or maybe since the thermostat housing is sonic welded(or something like that...definitely not a press fit) together it creates enough heat to screw up the thermostat's exact opening temp? lol Who knows.

This is what I DO know:

The orange painted in needle on the aforementioned picture (again thanks GDE) is about 152* F and that white area between marks where the painted needle is ranges from 152* to 158* based on the scantool I used while driving. It fluctuated alot, but mine stayed between 152* and 154* at a constant cruise.

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2010 10:17 pm 
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Considering that even a heavily-loaded (towing) CRD seems to run at the same temps, b/c mine runs at 176 while heavy hauling too... Would it be detrimental to the engine to pull the engine-driven fan out? It doesn't seem like the engine is working hard enough to need that big beast, when being a bit warmer might be better for efficiency anyway.

Thoughts?

I know the electric fan kicks in when the AC is on... Which for my CRD in Virginia right now, hasn't been for about 5 months now. But I'm also not really worried about the engine overheating, I think it would take a LOT for that to happen based on current experiences.

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 1:55 am 
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Based on my experience in validation, if you're towing something very light (i.e. 1000lbs) in very cold conditions (<32F) you might stand an okay chance of it not overheating without the mechanical fan. In lets say normal conditions, you'll make it about 5-10 minutes before you're crawling on the side of the road (depending on the weight and grade).

The mechanical fan is good for in the neighborhood of 4-5000cfm at max engagement. The e-fan is like a small fan you'd buy in the aftermarket - considerably less just by design alone, not even factoring in the flow direction or the placement.

Removing the M-fan for in-town "grocery getting" is fine (and is worth a noticeable amount in fuel economy) but trailer-towing would be a big no-no.


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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:04 am 
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Image[/quote]

My KJ has been at this mark, I think, for about two years. (152-154) I was assuming it was fine because no CEL came on. Yet another fact I picked up from this site. Thanks LOST KJ you're the best. :D

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 12:58 pm 
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They roll crimp on the Radiator Hose Water Outlet. Cut the roll crimp and the cover will come off. It could be reverse engineered, but in this ISO 9000 series/Six Sigma world (ISO was created by post WWII NAZI BEAN COUNTERS that could not be prosecuted for war crimes) it would cost at least $50,000 dollars to do what Jewelers do to make custom rings, as they have done for thousands of years (they make a mold). I guess I am glad my wife's ring I bought her was not from an ISO 9000/ Six Sigma Jeweler.
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After all some body has to make those Lear Jet payments for those big shots.

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 1:23 pm 
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Hey kapalczynski,

Can you grind or cut off the crimp that holds the top on ?.

My thinking is if it can be seperated like that without destroying the housing we might have a way of rebuilding the housing. May need to have someone weld on some posts to help bolt it back together, it would be a hassle the first time around but easy to service later on.

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2010 1:47 pm 
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To bad we cant get Old Navy to machine a new replacement housing with a removable tstat? Hint Hint ;)

Or, here is something from the GDE forum http://www.meziere.com/ps-572-541-wn0072.aspx

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:10 am 
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Funny you should mention machining...here's what I came up with today. I thought the housing was sonic welded. Perhaps it is roll crimped according to what you guys are saying? Either way this was the design I came up with:

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What do you guys think?

The last two pics show some possible issues. It may leak from the seam or from the bolt hole. Any Ideas? The thermostat housing will be recessed for the thermostat, and after going through ALL the boxes at the parts store I did find one that is PERFECT for this application. Since everyone seems to be running a little cold, I think I am going to try a 192* F (89* C) thermostat first (factory jeep is 176* F / 80* C) and see where it runs if the housing works out well with no leaks. Throw your ideas at me because I'm kinda inventing as I go here... :frankie:

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Last edited by kapalczynski on Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:32 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:16 am 
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flman wrote:
To bad we cant get Old Navy to machine a new replacement housing with a removable tstat? Hint Hint ;)

Or, here is something from the GDE forum http://www.meziere.com/ps-572-541-wn0072.aspx



There could be a problem with the in line thermostat design. Our Jeeps thermostat design closes the bypass port on the bottom of the thermostat assembly as it opens the engine/radiator port. This would not happen properly with the in line setup. If the coolant is allowed to flow through the bypass the cooling efficiency will be drastically reduced because half of the coolant will NOT be flowing through the radiator. If the coolant was blocked off before the in line thermostat opened this could possibly pressurize the hose between the two thermostats and be a potential point of hose failure. This is also one of the reasons it was SOOO hard to find the right thermostat to fit in my machined housing. The one I found is the perfect length and the bottom part of it closes the bypass port properly just as the factory design does. I literally went through the ENTIRE parts store's inventory of thermostats and only found one that would work.

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Last edited by kapalczynski on Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 1:09 am 
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I Like that!

Definitely interested to see the progress, and I'd sign up for one if we had the option of changing the temp specs too...

Based on Mr Mopar's thoughts, I would consider pulling the fan for a while for my general around-town running... But put it back on for towing. Which is OK with me, I don't tow that often.

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 1:23 am 
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If your TS that you found needs to be recessed in the housing, you could get a bit more meat on the machined surface. Also, from the pics, you might be able to TIG weld the line where the two peiced meet and remachine the new mounting surface. I don't think that the holes for the new Chevy housing will cause problems if you use some sort of thread sealer.
If you need a second housing to experiment with PM me and I will send my old housing for further testing.

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 1:27 am 
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geordi wrote:
I Like that!

Definitely interested to see the progress, and I'd sign up for one if we had the option of changing the temp specs too...

Based on Mr Mopar's thoughts, I would consider pulling the fan for a while for my general around-town running... But put it back on for towing. Which is OK with me, I don't tow that often.


I think I can keep the cost around the $100.00-150 mark

This would include machining time, new bolts, new gaskets, new thermostat (choice of 180* or 192*), new housing, and a new hose...everything you would need as long as everyone that bought one sent me their core back (might have to add a core charge to ensure that?). If I don't get cores back I would have to buy the new one and modify so it would be ~ $200 or just under if that was the case. I currently have a working core and when I put the prototype in my jeep I'll use my own for the core...then others old ones for the core, etc.

I'm not sure how interested our CRD community is in this, but I'd be willing. :)

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Last edited by kapalczynski on Fri Oct 01, 2010 3:23 am, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Thermostat Ideas and Pics.
PostPosted: Sun Mar 14, 2010 1:31 am 
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Allen M. wrote:
If your TS that you found needs to be recessed in the housing, you could get a bit more meat on the machined surface. Also, from the pics, you might be able to TIG weld the line where the two pieces meet and re-machine the new mounting surface. I don't think that the holes for the new Chevy housing will cause problems if you use some sort of thread sealer.
If you need a second housing to experiment with PM me and I will send my old housing for further testing.


A second core to test/modify would be a great help! PM on the way with my address :D

The new housing will be recessed not the jeep one so the depth of the thermostat matches factory. This also prevents the thermostat from moving by allowing it to be behind the gasket for easy assembly.

I plan on making a test rig for out of vehicle testing to ensure no leaks prior to installing the part...This could also be used to ensure quality prior to shipping parts out if people want this.

I'm not sure the line/seam in the hole will be an issue as I did a quick test by plugging the holes and blowing and it seemed to hold pressure. I don't have the ability to weld aluminum yet so unless I can do that myself that could drive the cost up a little bit if it is necessary. It just depends where the thermostat housing really seals. I think it might be actually sealing lower and hopefully not an issue.

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Last edited by kapalczynski on Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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