HELP WATER IN FUEL - JEEP WONT START

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Mar 14, 2010 8:01 pm

The water in fuel light came on, I pulled the jeep over and it continued to run real rough and greyish white smoke came out the exhaust then the engine began to knock hard and wouldn't start.

Replaced the fuel filter and purged the lines.

Still wont start... battery is dead and is being charged.

Help.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Mar 14, 2010 8:07 pm

condensation? or a bad tank of fuel?
you might have to have the tank drained.

remember the sensor is not very sensitive - you have to have enough to bridge across the electrodes.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Mar 14, 2010 8:12 pm

Tank is being drained now, and almost done.

What could the damage be?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Mar 14, 2010 8:23 pm

Probably not much damage if it didn't run for really long. I'd pour a bottle of Diesel 911 in the fresh tank to flush out remaining water in the lines and fuel rail.

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Sun Mar 14, 2010 8:23 pm

CATCRD wrote:

Probably not much damage if it didn't run for really long. I'd pour a bottle of Diesel 911 in the fresh tank to flush out remaining water in the lines and fuel rail.

X2

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 14, 2010 8:26 pm

Your other posts show that you are a proud Biodiesel user. Perhaps you got a batch which they did not decant long enough to remove the water. Even though Biodiesel is a good product to use for many reasons such as higher lubricity and higher cetane, there is a higher risk than with regular ULSD2.
1) Carry a spare filter in a sealed container to keep out the moisture, dirt, and insects. Yup I had to throw a bunch of filters into the trash before due to insect damage.
2) Keep your receipts from when you fill up, cuts down on the "I am sorry but" line of bull.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Mar 14, 2010 8:31 pm

How do I get it to start.

mrkake · **Posted:** Sun Mar 14, 2010 11:03 pm

You'll have to completely purge the line of the old fuel and just keep cranking it in 30 second intervals to clear the rail lines. This could take awhile. I got a bad tank from a local station and had to do the same. It's one of the reasons why I install the lift pump. Eventually it should start once you get good fuel throughout the system. Diesel 911 for sure in the first tank and then run Power Service in your tank for the next few just for good measure. You will get a lot of smoke once it starts to kick over so don't be alarmed.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Mar 14, 2010 11:20 pm

I'll keep trying to get it to start, but that hard lifter knocking noise has me worried.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Mon Mar 15, 2010 12:36 am

Crack the injector lines loose and bleed out the bad fuel. Keep cranking! Was it Bio-d?

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Mon Mar 15, 2010 3:40 am

The chance at a bad batch of bio is much greater than normal diesel. Im sorry to say.

racertracer · **Posted:** Mon Mar 15, 2010 5:09 am

Yes, it was Bio-D.

The battery is still under charge and I plan to keep cranking it in the morning.

RJM · **Posted:** Mon Mar 15, 2010 6:39 am

Did you buy the bio or is it home brew? If it was the latter and you didn't process it properly you may be in for a very expensive lesson.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Mon Mar 15, 2010 8:30 am

This is the first time I have ever heard of anybody having water in there fuel on here.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Mar 15, 2010 8:34 am

This places may be able help if you are a home brewer:

http://www.pabiodieselsupply.com/

If you bought the fuel, hope you kept the receipt.

racertracer · **Posted:** Mon Mar 15, 2010 8:54 am

She turns over, smokes a little, but still no start, battery is under charge again.

MrMopar64 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 15, 2010 12:09 pm

The KJ engine in the US had an internal coating to protect against low-lubricity fuels, but most certainly water will ruin common-rail parts quickly, especially the metering unit on the pump and the pressure control valve on the rail since they have some of the tightest tolerances. How bad did the fuel look coming out of the tank - was there an obviously large concentration of water?

If the engine is cranking over with some smoke out the tailpipe, you're injecting fuel so you don't have any air issues. I would say to try removing the Stryker module you have (which is modifying the fuel pressure) so that the ECU is controlling the fuel system actuators properly. Also, make sure you charge the battery fully since low voltage can have negative effects on combustion control.

Do you have any P-codes stored and/or active in the ECU? If you attempt to start the engine then stop but leave the key on, any issues should be present. If you have a garage that you can keep warm and leave the Jeep inside, this will drastically help the restarting process too.

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Mon Mar 15, 2010 2:14 pm

I trick I've learned after gelling my fuel lines a couple times....

Disconnect the fuel line coming into the filter head and apply some compressed air to it, with the fuel cap left on. I use about 20 PSI and maybe put air in for 10 secs. I can hear my tank flex a bit at that point. Remove the air and quickly reconnect your filter head. Open bleed screw until you get fuel. (also an easy way to prime your filter)

You have about 3 seconds to get the fuel line on there, so be quick!

racertracer · **Posted:** Mon Mar 15, 2010 3:31 pm

Engine codes P0093, P0191, P0192, P0340,

Changed fuel filter and the air relief valve (or waterever it's called) was open, noticed it too late.... air might have gotten to the rail. It was running before that but rough then it finally shut down.

Installed temporary inline lift pump to keep the filter primed.

Battery is being charged again.

Removed the Striker one.

Engine Heater has been plugged in for hours.

Water in fuel light is no longer on.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Mon Mar 15, 2010 4:36 pm

I'm confused. Is this the same poster that said it was running smooooth yesterday?

HELP WATER IN FUEL - JEEP WONT START

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