jeep will not accelerate past 35

oscillate · **Posted:** Tue Mar 30, 2010 5:27 pm

Hello!
I have a 2005 Limited CRD (red if that makes a difference). everything is stock so far. I bought it 3 months ago (not sure of previous history, but since its loaded I am going to assume at least a basic oilchange was done now and then), and I have been changing fluids and the basic stuff. It has 94000 miles, and so far it has performed great... until 2-3 weeks ago.

Since then:
1. I have had a "chirping" noise coming from the engine bay. It sounds like a rotational squeal of sorts. I believe some might refer to it in here as the Alternator Decoupler, but I am not sure. Is there a way to confirm this? Also, is there any other item I should check to troubleshoot?

2.Then, it started shutting off after running for a few seconds. Priming the fuel filter assembly makes it run again. So I have bought a new filter, and plan to install it tonight/tomorrow and see if that takes care of it. However, last time I primed it, I noticed fuel bubbling out around the part where the filter meets the head. Do I need a whole new assembly?

3. This morning, and perhaps the most troublesome, after starting, I drove 2-3 minutes (city at under 25MPH) before getting on the freeway. I could not get the Liberty to climb above 35-40+ MPH. as the freeway ramp went up, I noticed my revolutions climb all the way to 3kRPM but my speed was going down (albeit VERY slowly) and more gas only gave more RPM but no speed. I turned back and left it home. I have no idea what I am looking at here. I will change my fuel filter and then run around a little and see if it happens again

Any of you perhaps might help or know in which direction I should be looking? I am a beginning mechanic in an apartment in CA. Thanks.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:00 pm

OK, I think you have been over pumping the primer bulb. You need to pump it 3-4 times, then open the bleed valve on it to let air out, close bleeder, then pump it up again and bleed again. Do this until only fuel comes out with no air. You also may need a new belt. Bleed the air out of the system first then go drive it. If the lack of power is still present, check to make sure you don't have a turbo boost hose with a hole in it, or the clamp has come loose. Also, disconnect the battery cable and turn on the light switch. This resets the limp mode that you are currently in.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Mar 30, 2010 7:09 pm

1) Chirping is probably the alternator decoupler - however I do not know of a good way of isolating this except replacing it.

2) if you're having to reprime at all - it means you have an air leak - a new head is the only way to fix that - although the new design seems to be a good fix to the leak - but you have to replace the heater wiring. New filter shouldn't change it and the new head will come with a new filter.
Try just hand tightening the fuel filter - and look at the heater plug to see if fuel is leaking out there (if it is - air is leaking in)

3) a dirty filter or an air leak can cause the 'limp mode' - try just turning it off/on - many times it will reset and be okay for a while.

a blown turbo hose normally blows a lot of smoke - and does not reset.

check local parts - or Mopar Parts America for
Separator 68043089AA
Connector 68043086AA
should be ~$100 for the pair
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=381161#p381161

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Mar 30, 2010 7:14 pm

Very likely the limp mode has something to do with that "Mercedes Logo" sensor on the engine-side of the airbox. The connectors on this are weak, and if it is unplugged OR the wires get damaged... Your performance will suffer in several ways, not the least of which is the limp mode you are in.

You don't have to unplug the battery to get out of limp mode, it will reset just by restarting the car. PROVIDED the problem is dealt with.

It is a good idea to check the hoses anyway, with that level of mileage. The chirping is very likely the alternator decoupler, if you need one, I now have one that I cannot make use of, and cannot return. (Replaced my entire alternator) LMK.

Try tightening the fuel filter, if the housing is cracked, I have another one of those as well, and listen to BVCRD - He's right, you might have been over-pressurizing the head with the priming button.

oscillate · **Posted:** Tue Mar 30, 2010 11:39 pm

Hello!

Just got back from successfully driving on the freeway at up to 75MPH.

Before that, I opened the hood, and hand tightened the old fuel filter... it was very loose. I figured maybe its never been changed, so I replaced it with one I had already. But before that, I removed the heater plug and the other sensor to inspect and found the following:

I guess nothing.

Nothing looked burned, charred, or melted I think. I tried priming the pump a few, but no leak was noted this time in any plug or around the filter. I did noticed the green plug in the picture was NOT connected to anything (I was not getting any check engine light). I figured that was the WIF (correct? please? !)

I tried to check out the turbo hoses, but I have no idea what to check. In fact, it started getting dark, and I, only having a general idea that it was somewhere on the left side on the engine didn't knew what to look for. There were a few shielded hoses... they looked okay at a glance. I have now the PDF FSM and will be reading on it tonight and check again tomorrow.

I also noticed this:

There was oil there... as if it was a leak of sorts, is that normal? do I have to drain it?

The plan is now to see if the engine stalls again due to air in fuel line. If it does, I think I should replace it with a new head. And any further issues there would be fixed with a pump. THAT ought to do it.

BTW, I serviced the fuel filter ALL from the top without removing any hoses. I just removed the black engine cover and that let me see much better. I am debating about putting it back on. Not sure.

Oh, one more thing, if I may, I would like to clean the engine. I have a cherokee and all Ive done to it is wrap the distributor, fuse box, and starter in plastic bags, spray with degreaser and pressure wash at the carwash. Are there particular precautions (complex electronics in the CRD) I should protect before washing the engine / bay?

Guys/gals, your advice been awesome (the one to me, and also the ones to others, as Ive been reading a lot here). It got me confident enough to remove things in the jeep and not feel intimidated with messing things up. I know is only the fuel filter, but I am going to change that decoupler myself. Hopefully

thx.

BVCRD · **Posted:** Wed Mar 31, 2010 10:13 am

Yes, it is the WIF plug. Also, you will need to check the air in the filter head weekly until you are satidfied it isn't leaking. Mine has been leaking air since day one. I just bleed the air out once a week, and it has been 65,000 miles now on the original head. So....even with an air leak, it isn't the end of the world.

linewarbr · **Posted:** Wed Mar 31, 2010 1:31 pm

The boost hoses run from the turbo to the intercooler and then from the intercooler to the intake. The turbo-to-intercooler hose runs up from the passenger-side rear of engine and if it is stock, should be wrapped in a protective braid. The intercooler-to-intakehose exits the intercooler and runs down by the battery, then up to the intake on the middle-driver's side of the engine. (Here is a link to a member's Samco hose install to give you a better idea of locations: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=51045 ) These are a common trouble point because of. . .

The black hockey-puck shaped device is the CCV pressure regulator, it allows the crankcase to vent gases out and (in stock form) into the intake, which is where the hose connected to the front of it runs - it connects to your intake just before the turbo impeller. The pressure regulator, unfortunately, also allows fine droplets of oil into the intake, which condense in the boost hoses and intercooler. The oil will degrade the hoses over time, causing them to leak and burst.

Hand-check your boost hoses for oil seepage. If they are coated in oil on the outside, it is time to order some new ones. (OEM or Samcos will run you $200 - $300) In the meantime, you can clean the hoses well and doctor any weak points with Gorilla or self-sealing silicon tape.

Also, you should pull and clean the MAP sensor and consider a modification to deal with the oil from the CCV. More info on that can be found here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50930

As for cleaning the engine, I would only do that with degreaser and a rag. Too many electronics in there for me to feel comfotable pressure-washing it.

Sharon · **Posted:** Wed Mar 31, 2010 2:24 pm

There is a fuel seperator filter housing/ filter upgrade kit aka new style that i had done at my dealership under waranaty because it wouldnt start. It happened to me i told the dealer it would not start one morning then after i had done the priming poccedure in the owner manual it started. So even though they did not duplicate the problem they trusted me and replaced it under my max care waranty. It has never happened again. Yes should check you MAP sensor becuase if that is clogged with soot it will cause CEL light to come on. Somethimes when i take off it will have a hiccup in acceleration and thow the CEl and the code is for the MAP sensor causing the limp home mode. After shutting her down and restarting it would run fine, My Crd also did the chriping noises and it was worse when the AC was turned on the engine would shake. It turn out it was the Alternator bearings where coming apart and they replaced the alernator and the ilder pulley too.

jeep will not accelerate past 35

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