Update Oil Cleaning Centrifuge on my CRD

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:26 pm

I have added a Centrifuge to my CRD to keep the oil clean. After over 100 miles my oil is medium brown in color and not black. I mounted the Centrifuge onto an aluminum pipe flange.

To make room under where I wanted to mount the Centrifuge, I had to move the Wiring Harness plugs near the TCM so I modified the bracket.

Plugs toward engine were moved 1" toward fender and 1" toward fire wall.

Centrifuge mounting racket that bolts to two bolts on fire wall that hold reciever dryer.

Cut hole in side of oil pan with hole saw turned with ratchet, note grease on hole saw to check chips.

Drain and oil supply line mounted.

Conduit nut and JB Weld used to strengthen fitting in oil pan.

Epoxie Putty used to reinforce fitting more.

Installed

Centrifuge with cover removed.

Specs.

I plan to change the oil feed line plumbing by getting rid of the Banjo fitting and add a union.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:39 pm

Very interesting. I have thought about mounting an oil return from either a centrifuge or a bypass filter into the neck of the filler cap, since we have that very nice TALL pipe.

How much was the centrifuge, and what is it rated for in terms of consumable life? I see it has a paper element listed.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Apr 06, 2010 8:54 pm

The source was PA Biodiesel supply ~$128 + SH, check there website for their latest price. The paper element is only used for Biodiesel filtration, I do not use it.
Dieselcraft has a kit that uses a compressor so you can rout the return to the valve cover. Dieselcraft wants $499 for their kit through a friend of mine near Carson City, NV.
Centrifuge should last the life of the engine. My Friend has upped his oil change interval to 15K on his Dodge Cummins.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Tue Apr 06, 2010 11:45 pm

How far are you planning to go with the oil change??

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:04 am

onthehunt wrote:

How far are you planning to go with the oil change??

Good Question. You are big on Oil analysis, who are some places that don't cost more than the oil and filter?
One thing I will factor in is how much driving I do which varies depending on how much I fly.
I might go 10K to 15K if I am driving enough.
Think I should change at least once a year?

onthehunt · **Posted:** Wed Apr 07, 2010 1:21 pm

I go 10k stock... You would have to send in samples to check. Maybe start @ 5k, then 10k. See what it looks like. By that time you could have paid for an oil change with the cost of testing. I'd like to see how far you could take it out. IMHO you have a lot of faith in jb weld and epoxy to hold the oil in.

flman · **Posted:** Wed Apr 07, 2010 1:41 pm

onthehunt wrote:

I go 10k stock... You would have to send in samples to check. Maybe start @ 5k, then 10k. See what it looks like. By that time you could have paid for an oil change with the cost of testing. I'd like to see how far you could take it out. IMHO you have a lot of faith in jb weld and epoxy to hold the oil in.

x2 10K or once a year, what ever comes first. Some of you guys like to tinker, and if that be your forte so be it. If I were driving a semi, I might consider bypassing or centrifuge, but for 6 quarts, Nada. I would not even bother with my 17 Qt Cummins, which I push up to to 25K with Amsoil with stock filtration. I am going to try oil analysis though.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Apr 07, 2010 2:33 pm

It might seem excessive on our little engines... But think about this: If you are keeping the soot out of the oil to the level that it doesn't change color instantly anymore, then you are keeping that abrasive out of your ENGINE too.

I'm all for that, even if I didn't extend the oil changes because of it.

Perfect example: I have put an EHM onto my CRD, after running with the stock setup for the entire life of the original engine (60k) The last time I saw my MAP sensor (before the ehm but after SEGR), it still didn't look that great. Soaking wet with oil, completely coated.

I pulled it out a couple days ago just to spray it off with brake cleaner... Didn't have to. It was all shiny clean, only the barest hint of oil film on it, probably from the residual in the intake. Can't beat that!

Over-engineered... Is just about right.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Wed Apr 07, 2010 5:14 pm

How much does that elbow fitting weigh? I hope you fully supported it and allowed for flex. That cast aluminum pan with diesel vibrations won't take alot of stress...

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Apr 07, 2010 5:45 pm

onthehunt wrote:

How much does that elbow fitting weigh? I hope you fully supported it and allowed for flex. That cast aluminum pan with diesel vibrations won't take alot of stress...

A few ounces, I put in a Conduit nut to help strengthen the where the fitting screws in. I plan to build a bracket to prevent any bending moment on the 1" NPT fitting. What would be best is a flange that could be bolted or welded onto the pan. The JB Weld is only being used for Thread Locker/sealer. Stronger options are in the works.
I am also going to redo the inlet plumbing.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Apr 07, 2010 7:40 pm

Heat Shield on down pipe to protect hoses from heat.

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:01 pm

FANTASTIC! I like this idea. Are you planning on oil analysis on this next change? Make sure you keep us up to date after your change and let us know if the oil appears to run cleaner. On your friends dodge, was there a noticeable difference in clarity of the oil with this installed?

What oil do you run?

My friend has a 2006 dodge magnum SRT8 that runs 0w40 factory fill. He has run 5k miles on 0w40 Mobil 1 and compared to 5k miles on Amsoil 5w40. they were nearly identical for the oil analysis. Surprised him and me. Apparently the new Mobil 1 0w40 is a better and more advanced formula than the rest of their oils which only confimrs what I have heard about it.

Extremely awesome idea. Let us know how it goes!

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:07 pm

Where there any requirements from the supplier for that supply line? Size, pressure, composition of the tube? How large is that, inner diameter? What about stepping down the output line to a more sensible size? 1" seems a bit excessive for the flow that the supply side offers.

On that... What are you planning to change on the supply? Changing out the hardware for brass? Smaller diameter?

I was thinking a 1/2" line from a brass T, from a similar location to the one you have, but with the return as a bung welded onto the oil fill tube.

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:12 pm

kapalczynski wrote:

FANTASTIC! I like this idea. Are you planning on oil analysis on this next change? Make sure you keep us up to date after your change and let us know if the oil appears to run cleaner. On your friends dodge, was there a noticeable difference in clarity of the oil with this installed?

What oil do you run?

My friend has a 2006 dodge magnum SRT8 that runs 0w40 factory fill. He has run 5k miles on 0w40 Mobil 1 and compared to 5k miles on Amsoil 5w40. they were nearly identical for the oil analysis. Surprised him and me. Apparently the new Mobil 1 0w40 is a better and more advanced formula than the rest of their oils which only confimrs what I have heard about it.

Extremely awesome idea. Let us know how it goes!

Yea... But is that Mobil 1 0w40 a CI4 or CJ-rated diesel oil?

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:46 pm

geordi wrote:

Yea... But is that Mobil 1 0w40 a CI4 or CJ-rated diesel oil?

Mobil 1 0w40 is a API: SM,SL/CF rated oil. I am not sure about Amsoil.

Comes OE on Mercedes and Porsche.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Thu Apr 08, 2010 2:34 pm

kapalczynski wrote:

FANTASTIC! I like this idea. Are you planning on oil analysis on this next change? Make sure you keep us up to date after your change and let us know if the oil appears to run cleaner. On your friends dodge, was there a noticeable difference in clarity of the oil with this installed?

What oil do you run?

My friend has a 2006 dodge magnum SRT8 that runs 0w40 factory fill. He has run 5k miles on 0w40 Mobil 1 and compared to 5k miles on Amsoil 5w40. they were nearly identical for the oil analysis. Surprised him and me. Apparently the new Mobil 1 0w40 is a better and more advanced formula than the rest of their oils which only confimrs what I have heard about it.

Extremely awesome idea. Let us know how it goes!

I run Castrol 5W-50 full synthetic, like to have both my Wife's TDI and my Jeep on the same stuff.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 5:03 pm

This is a wonderful piece of work, but with about 75K miles on our CRD and 6K oil change intervals (about 45K miles now since SEGR and ORM) it takes over 1500 miles after an oil change (always Mobil 1 00-40) before the oil even starts to have any color at all. At 6K, it still is not totally opaque.

(When we first got it with 17K on it, the oil was opaque black 30 seconds after an oil and filter change and the MAP sensor was totally crudded. Now I clean it (MAP) at each oil change, but it really does not even need it.)

DOC

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 9:30 pm

I will post pics of the crud I clean out when I rack up 1K.

All of which has gone through the oil filter.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sat Nov 13, 2010 7:02 pm

Update:
After 10,000+ miles on the oil, I changed the oil and cleaned out the centrifuge bowl.
What I found in the bowl was thick dirty heavy sludge that was the consistency of fresh chocolate cake frosting.
When I ran the dirty heavy sludge between my fingers it felt like it had clay type particles in it and was not as slick as the oil.
Oil on the outside of the centrifuge was still slick and even though it was black it did not feel broken down or thinned out, in fact, I had a hard time holding onto the centrifuge bowl to take it apart.

Hopefully by next year when I come close to the 10K mark, I will have time to do an oil analysis and see if the centrifuge will allow running to 15K.

Today, the weather was not any good for pics, so I did not take any.

CRDMiller · **Posted:** Thu Nov 18, 2010 6:43 am

Warp, what is your normal hot idle oil pressure?

Also, what is your normal 65 mph hot oil pressure? And what is that rpm? (for instance i'm around 35 HOT (220f coolant) psi at 1750 at 65 mph)

Update Oil Cleaning Centrifuge on my CRD

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