Long time reader, first time poster. Ok......went to change the oil in our 05 Liberty CRD. Change it out with some grumbling about the dealership not placing my oil drain plug gasket back on and causing me to worry about the spots of oil on my grass (Building house....just park anywhere). So I decide to see if the new fuel filter, that I had my brother and father change out for me while I was on the road, is causing any of the problems that my wife is telling me about. I crack the bleeder valve on the fuel head.....give a couple of pumps.....HMMMMMM seems to be a lot of air and spitting. I close the valve and decide to unplug the connectors for the fuel heater element as I have read here that I don't need it until winter and it will give me some more time on the fuel head. Unplug the left one...looks ok.....unplug the one on the far right....... spits diesel out like it is my sick kid. I quickly look at the connector and notice the scorch marks that I have read about here. I say "Well..... I will just jam a piece of shop rag in there and take the jeep for a spin before I top her off with the last of the remaining quart from the oil change.". I get about 200 feet and the jeep dies out. I remove my bit of shop rag and plug the scorched connector back in. Jeep fires up after a couple of extra seconds of cranking. Drive back, tell the wife that she will have to take the Ol Reliable Civic to work untill I can ask some questions on the LOST forum. She starts to act like I am making it up so I can drive the Jeep. I tell her she can drive it, it just might turn into a rolling ball of flame. She says she will take the Civic. So......... I need to replace the fuel head, should I just get the new and improved OEM one or drop a Racor in with a 2 micron filter and get a nice water drain bowl. I have never understood why that is missing on the stock fuel system. I am used to servicing semi trucks. I was planning to put a lift pump in later this summer along with a GDE eco tune. Hoping to extend the life of my EGR. I will take my answers off the air.

Josh

Don't put in a 2-micron filter UNLESS you install the lift pump at the same time. You will be risking your injection pump. Right now, I would say your best bet is the Racor head with a 10-micron filter (if available) since then you will be ready for the pump and 2-micron when you have the time to do it.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 125 CRDs currently driving with my timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

The factory fuel filter assembly is a lot better than people give it credit for. The improved OEM head assembly fixes all of the problems, and is a lot cheaper (and likely quicker to procure parts for) than other DIY integration options.

The OEM assembly (both old and new) both have a water drain at the bottom of the filter.

The new rupdated OEM fuel filter head works well and should be the only one you should consider because it connects directly to the vehicles computer system and is capable of alerting you if you have WATER in your fuel system. If a small amount of water gets caught in your fuel rail it will destroy it and your injectors.

You can read many posts relating to this issue. Aftermarket fuel heads have been the cause of thousands of dollars worth of damage to the fuel rail and injectors on our vehicles.

Search and read past posts.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

x3. Go with the new Mopar filter head.

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, Limited
GDE Eco Tune, GDE TCM Tune, Bauer 203* Tstat, Amsoil EaA 201 Filter, Clean MAP, Samco CAC Hoses, Magnaflow Muffler #12226.
New Mopar Fuel Filter, K&N Filterminder, Fumoto Oil Drain Valve
225/75R16 Hankook Dynapros

The new Fuel head is easier, cheaper, quicker.

although Mopar doesn't list any specs on the filter - and the WIX replacement spec is 10 micron.

the Racor is on my long term list - and no one has reported any problems with the 2 micron Racor - it's just like the 2.5L in Europe and Australia.

(no one's reported problems on Stanadyne either - but there are only a couple of folks using it)

the 2 micron issues have specifically been with the CAT adapter, and installed on the old style head.

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Two causes of the OEM filter head failing were,
1) The stupid fuel heater stays on all the time due to the Bean Counter Engineering Bull S#!t of the heater being self regulating. True, every resistance type heater draws less current when hot than cold (draws even more when very cold), but "Self Regulating" is like a Politician with his/her rhetoric, nothing but pure spin in the real world.
2) Air leaks into the fuel system from numerous places into the fuel system and collects in the filter head. Then the air does not conduct the heat away from the fuel heater element causing the heater to burn up the heater puck where the electrical connection pins going through the filter heater puck to the plug, causing more air leaks. Chrysler, VM, or the heater puck manufacturer went to larger pins hoping they would suppress frying the heater puck housing where the pins go through and get rid of the problem. Installing a lift pump greatly reduces/eliminates the air leaks so the puck does not destroy its' self. Unplugging the relay gets rid of the heat under all conditions.

Two minimal fixes;
1) Unplug the heater relay until it is below Zero (F) for a few days, but don't chastise your self if you forget to plug it back in. Plug the relay in only when and if needed.
2) Replace the filter head if damaged, can't be fixed.

Ultimate fixes:
1) Replace filter head.
2) Install lift pump.
3) Install switch to turn on the heater in case you will be needing it in sub Zero weather.
4) Install fuel cooler.

My heater was disabled all last winter and I never blocked off my fuel cooler, no gel or wax build up at -14F for several days.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

Go back with factory.

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2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?

Someone here added a sealed bi-metallic switch from a winter pipe heater cable. Wish I could find the post. Positive - less to remember, negative - like anything, can fail.

Squeeto: I did and it died when I tried to adjust it to 0F from 40F. I will put in a switch in the cab when I get a chance.

Chromolox makes a great thermostat switch but $250 US is too stiff for me.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

But it would be ultimate. Someone will find a cheaper replacement; it is a good idea.

Can`t agree with you MrMopar.
I had the same problems with improved OEM head assembly only after 5 months of exploitation. Last week i bought and already install Stanadyne Fuel Manager FM100 standard flow with 6 in. 5 micron filter and it was much cheaper than OEM.

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KJ crd Sport 2006, Stanadyne FM100 (2 micron), inline lift pump, turbo-timer, 245/70/16 Dueler 694 A/T Revo.

Now, SPN-87 is the first negative reporting on the peformance of the new Mopar fuel head assembly I have heard!
I have been running that new head BUT I never connected the heater (desert area, never freezes here). I was thinking of connecting but now noway.
Anyone else had that new "stock" head fail??
This is not good news!

Roland

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2006 CRD LTD 2.8L VM Motori turbo,CAC, 100K-new timing belt
ORM-SEGR, Trans cooler, CLIII hitch front/rear, Journey HD controller
Mopar skids,"Stone Soup" rails, KK clevis fork 1" mild lift w/Daystar stops
215x85 LRD BFG Commercial A/T's, Rola Rack, V6 airbox, Fumoto valve
10K winch, B5 Biodiesel (ULSD CP3 lube)
Its a Diesel baby!

SPN-87 ..... You had air problems prior to installing the updated fuel head.

If your fuel lines demonstrated signs of air leaks prior to installing the new fuel head, then that problem would still be there.

Nothing wrong with the new fuel head, the new revised fuel head eliminates the fire hazard issue with updated wiring and connectors.

Unless you install a lift pump or locate and fix the air leak which is present in the fuel lines, you will continue to have air in fuel problems.

The air leak in fuel is a problem that some of us have experienced since our vehicles came out of the factory. Finding the source of the air leak is a difficult task and the reason why some of us have installed an in tank or in line fuel lift pump.

Install a lift pump if you have air in your lines and install the new OEM fuel head if you haven't already done so. So that you will not experience a possible fire in the engine bay and your (ECU) Engine Computer will not be altrered because the water in fuel electrical connector has been disabled becasue the after market fuel head you installed does not provide a connection to the water in fuel device like the OEM unit does. The OEM unit will continue to monitor water in fuel and it will alert you when the fuel system has detects it by triggering a light on the instrument panel.

If your water in fuel light comes on (light is located on the lower right side of your instrument panel) a simple and quick way to drain it from the OEM fuel filter head can be performed. There is a drain plug at the bottom of the OEM fuel filter that can be unsrewed (only after you detach the electrical connector) allowing the water that is trapped in the fuel filter to be drained.

Eliminating any possible damage to the high pressure fuel rail and injectors and allowing extra time to drive the vehicle to a safe area where you can work on eliminating the rest of the water in fuel or have your mechanic drain the tank for you.

The use of an after market fuel head in our vehicles can be compared to playing Russian Roulette with our high pressure fuel pump and injectors because water in fuel cannot be monitored.

Stick with the new updated and original equipment replacement fuel head ($80.00 and 15 minute install) so that the threat of a fire is eliminated, water in fuel is continually monitored by the ECU and your engine will work as it was designed to do.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

I had the same problems with improved OEM head assembly only after 5 months of exploitation. It means, that 5 months ago after installing of a new improved OEM filter head assemly - I had no any problem 5 months. But ! After 5 months problem appeared again.

I install a lift pump and Stanadyne Fuel Manager FM100 (with 6 in. 5 micron fuel filter separator) and my ECU will not be altered because i installed OEM WIF sensor to Stanadyne FM100 SEE THRU B ... and my OEM WIF sensor just continue to monitor and alert me about water in fuel....

No... You are wrong. My OEM WIF sensor after installation to an after market filter still continue to monitor water in fuel.

You quoted to Russian roulette I don`t like that game (btw i`m russian), and i don`t wont to spent another 80 or 90 dollars to a new OEM filter head (third time)... This is looks like russian roulette .
Only one question for you: What`s the price of the OEM filter/separator and what is the level of filtration ?

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KJ crd Sport 2006, Stanadyne FM100 (2 micron), inline lift pump, turbo-timer, 245/70/16 Dueler 694 A/T Revo.

So can we get a link to a new OEM filter head at the lowest price?

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06 Cummins 2wd- industrial injection sliver bullet 66,pdi manifold,smarty(tnt tune),Dr. Performance predator w/ race tune,Fass 150/200,Goerend full billet trans,Pusher intake manifold,snow meth,boost fooler,cal tracs, Stage 2 AFE, about 9 isspros, II dual feed lines, wicked injection pump, mag hytec's, studs,spings and cam.

2005 CRD

I can give reference on Stanadyne, not OEM.
http://www.thedieselstore.com/template/ ... %20manager

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KJ crd Sport 2006, Stanadyne FM100 (2 micron), inline lift pump, turbo-timer, 245/70/16 Dueler 694 A/T Revo.

I got mine at Mopar Parts America ~$100 total
http://www.moparpartsamerica.com/splash/index.cfm?siteid=214583
Part #+ photo
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=381162#p381162

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Racor is great! No problem and you can chose 2, 10 or 30 micron filter and you also have a proper fuel heater and wif and water drain. Your wif light will NEVER come on with the oem setup. Instead, the media of the filter will absorb the water and decompose, clogging your pump and injector. You won't have that with a parker/racor filter. Had it for a year with no problem. No lift pump and still no problem (although it's the next mod on my list, pump already in the garage) The other good thing is that the racor head comes with a full part list so if anything fail, you can change that component separately. Much better product than oem bean counter crap.

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2006 CRD KJ, 245/70R16 A/T KO, GDE eco tune, ARB bull bar, OME lift, AVIC-N4, turbo timer, pulsetech solargizer, Racor CCV3500, Racor 245R122 fuel head, Caterpillar battery, oem light bar, KC lights, HID fog lts, cb, ...

That's a lot of modifications for something that the OEM filter already provides with no alterations.

Price for the fuel/water separator, liberty, 2.8l 05-06 $164.00 $108.72 Fuel system - Fuel supply - Diesel fuel supply - Fuel/water separator Micron 10.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"