It is currently Tue Apr 23, 2019 11:08 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 242 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 9, 10, 11, 12, 13  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 8:15 am 
Offline
LOST Newbie
User avatar

Joined: Tue May 08, 2012 1:57 am
Posts: 86
Location: South Bulgaria
Very useful topic this one. As I eliminated the EGR, it's time to clean the MAP!


Image

_________________
Grumpy turtle from Finland, deep in a swamp at Balkans... Safe place in this unsafe world...


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 11:11 am 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Sat Jun 23, 2018 9:53 pm
Posts: 88
Location: WNC
Image

thanks !

should be embarking on all of this soon.

_________________
05 CRD
GDE Eco Full Torque & Towing TCM Tune
Suncoast, TransGo HD2, Sonnax Line Pressure Booster, upgraded Mopar pump/springs
Weeks' Stage 1 & 2
ProVent 200
Samco Hoses
V6 Airbox
Cummins In Tank Pump
2nd Gen Fuel Filter Head,
Donaldson P551313 Secondary Filter
Fumoto valve
OME lift, JBA UCAs
Backbone Winch Mount


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2018 11:21 am 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4481
Location: Central GA
k9adv wrote:
thanks !
should be embarking on all of this soon.

Good for you!
If you need help with anything, just ask, plenty of good experienced people on this forum more than willing to answer any questions and offer advice.... :wink:

_________________
Proud Supporting Vendor of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:

Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2018 12:09 am 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Sat Jun 23, 2018 9:53 pm
Posts: 88
Location: WNC
WWDiesel wrote:
The IAP sensor on the inlet side of the air cleaner housing is commonly referred to as the "Mercedes Sensor". It is located in front of the MAF sensor as you described.

IAP sensor - 05101120AB (pressure sensor on side of airbox)
air inlet air pressure comparator pressure sensor on the side of the air box; referred as the Mercedes sensor.

:SOMBRERO:


Thanks !

And...
The Bosch part number for this is 0261230189.
And it is also known by Mercedes OEM Code: A0051535028
Dodge OEM Code: 05101120AB.

It is commonly named in sales listings as a "Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor" (hence why auto parts stores know it as a MAP Sensor).
Such as here: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0261230189 ... B00P076S8G

It is also called known as a "Turbo Boost Sensor" at Autozone, for example (open link to see title):
https://www.autozone.com/engine-managem ... 28_22737_0

I just purchased a Bosch 0261230189, due to a P1854 code my CRD has.

_________________
05 CRD
GDE Eco Full Torque & Towing TCM Tune
Suncoast, TransGo HD2, Sonnax Line Pressure Booster, upgraded Mopar pump/springs
Weeks' Stage 1 & 2
ProVent 200
Samco Hoses
V6 Airbox
Cummins In Tank Pump
2nd Gen Fuel Filter Head,
Donaldson P551313 Secondary Filter
Fumoto valve
OME lift, JBA UCAs
Backbone Winch Mount


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 5:49 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2018 8:03 pm
Posts: 2
[img][/imghttp://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/noobguide.jpg


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 5:54 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Sun Sep 09, 2018 8:03 pm
Posts: 2
Great guide....06 CRD 146000Miles Just replaced with ARP, new rockers (hydraulic function was not working at all in old rockers, new head gasket, samco, map, stage 1 and 2 ear delete, gp's, timing belt/tensioner/pulleys etc, harmonic balancer, serpentine idlers, serpentine belt, Alterator clutch pulley) Running like a champ now. onto suspension.
What caused going in so deep was pulling out #4 GP and the tip was broken off...not being sure if i had caused this to drop into the cylinder I felt it safer to pull head and inspect. As it turns out there were a few nicks in the piston and head where it must have passed the pieces....cylinder and everything looked fine. This board has been outstanding! I'm a decent mechanic but was good to have so many guides out there for this great little SUV.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 7:06 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:12 pm
Posts: 2251
Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
stonymaness wrote:
Great guide....06 CRD 146000Miles Just replaced with ARP, new rockers (hydraulic function was not working at all in old rockers, new head gasket, samco, map, stage 1 and 2 ear delete, gp's, timing belt/tensioner/pulleys etc, harmonic balancer, serpentine idlers, serpentine belt, Alterator clutch pulley) Running like a champ now. onto suspension.
What caused going in so deep was pulling out #4 GP and the tip was broken off...not being sure if i had caused this to drop into the cylinder I felt it safer to pull head and inspect. As it turns out there were a few nicks in the piston and head where it must have passed the pieces....cylinder and everything looked fine. This board has been outstanding! I'm a decent mechanic but was good to have so many guides out there for this great little SUV.

If you suspect it passed the pieces through the exhaust, you need to pull your turbo and make sure nothing was captured or damaged there in the exhaust turbine side. If this happened while it was running at power, it will have made definite impact events. And (if it's completely stock) it passed on out into the exhaust it will have been caught in the inlet chamber of the Catalytic Converter, and is contributing to restricted exhaust flow there.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 29, 2018 10:42 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4481
Location: Central GA
GordnadoCRD wrote:
And (if it's completely stock) it passed on out into the exhaust it will have been caught in the inlet chamber of the Catalytic Converter, and is contributing to restricted exhaust flow there.

And if it is a large enough piece, it could fly around in the CAT and beat the crap out of the honeycomb and eventually stop the CAT up. :(

_________________
Proud Supporting Vendor of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:

Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2019 1:13 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Thu Jan 10, 2019 1:58 pm
Posts: 5
can someone point out the glow plugs in that first picture of the engine block?
Alex


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2019 4:08 pm 
Offline
LOST Member

Joined: Tue Dec 16, 2014 9:33 pm
Posts: 367
Location: Jackson,TN
They can't be seen in the picture. The first one is just behind the alternator in the picture. they are on driver side of head beneath the overhanging intake valve cover and hidden also by intake calc hose and flow control valve.

_________________
05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 185K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 200K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 112K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
CRDS: Fumoto, Kennedy Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2019 10:07 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4481
Location: Central GA
GP's 3 & 4

Image

_________________
Proud Supporting Vendor of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:

Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 12:23 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie
User avatar

Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2019 10:56 pm
Posts: 2
Location: Albuquerque, NM
This is my first post to these forums.

[Edit] UPDATE!!!! Skip my graphic and see the next AWESOME post instead! (the rest of this post preserved for thread continuity only) [/Edit]

I haven't been able to find something like this ANYWHERE and I've been searching quite a while. I'm not certain I have this correct so please correct me (hopefully without flaming me) if I am wrong. I'm posting it here in the Noob guide as I am a Noob and if it isn't shot down entirely I feel like other Noobs like myself might benefit from it.

Serpentine Belt routing.

Image


Last edited by BonezTheGoon on Sat Mar 02, 2019 12:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 01, 2019 5:50 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4481
Location: Central GA
The water pump is driven by the timing belt.

Belt Routing Diagram:

Image

_________________
Proud Supporting Vendor of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:

Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2019 12:14 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie
User avatar

Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2019 10:56 pm
Posts: 2
Location: Albuquerque, NM
WWDiesel THANK YOU!!!!! Sooooo awesome! Did you buy some fancy shop manual to get such a glorious diagram? That is exactly what I was looking for!

It was baffling to me that a water pump would be on the serpentine belt. I've never seen a "heater pump" (per se) before and since I could see it clearly was connected to coolant lines I made the best assumption I could without better information.

Thank you for taking the time to politely correct me and provide a MUCH more useful resource!!! I really cannot express how much I appreciate when a community comes together to help one another!


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2019 4:12 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4481
Location: Central GA
BonezTheGoon wrote:
WWDiesel THANK YOU!!!!! Sooooo awesome! Did you buy some fancy shop manual to get such a glorious diagram? That is exactly what I was looking for!
It was baffling to me that a water pump would be on the serpentine belt. I've never seen a "heater pump" (per se) before and since I could see it clearly was connected to coolant lines I made the best assumption I could without better information.
Thank you for taking the time to politely correct me and provide a MUCH more useful resource!!! I really cannot express how much I appreciate when a community comes together to help one another!

No problem,
I have hundreds of colorized drawings, diagrams, and pictures on file for the Jeep 2.8 CRD.
If you need something, just me a shout, if I don't have it, I can sometimes find it or at least draw it on computer. :wink:
That is what makes this forum so great, helping each other whenever possible.

This link may be of help to you for future reference?
Save it,
Index of /manuals/Jeep/KJ
http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

:SOMBRERO:

_________________
Proud Supporting Vendor of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:

Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2019 2:06 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2016 5:29 pm
Posts: 3
After reading your guide, i think i have torque converter shudder. Ive had my CRD for about 5 years and i experience a shudder in my engine whenever my vehicle is trying to shift-- only going up steep(er) hills, in between 2000-2500 rpms. Ive been thinking its the tranny going bad, or such. But now im thinking it might be this. What exactly would be the symptoms of torque converter shudder and would it occur at the same rpm every time?

thanks!
Michelle

_________________
2005 Liberty CRD


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 9:28 am 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:12 pm
Posts: 2251
Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
jeepmichelle1 wrote:
After reading your guide, i think i have torque converter shudder. Ive had my CRD for about 5 years and i experience a shudder in my engine whenever my vehicle is trying to shift-- only going up steep(er) hills, in between 2000-2500 rpms. Ive been thinking its the tranny going bad, or such. But now im thinking it might be this. What exactly would be the symptoms of torque converter shudder and would it occur at the same rpm every time?

thanks!
Michelle

Shudder happens when the engine torque is greater than the friction resistance of a clutch. With the CRD, the transmission clutches are usually overkill, and the clutch that most commonly slips, is the lockup clutch in the torque converter.

Usually this happens under acceleration, and unless modified somehow, maximum engine torque happens around 2100rpm.

The CRD torque converter clutch locks/unlocks at about 48-52mph. If you are accelerating when this happens, and the shudder starts about there, then it's the torque converter lockup clutch.

The trans usually does the 3-4 upshift around 43-44mph. when you feel this shift, push the throttle hard but don't floor it, and keep the speed under the trans lockup speed. Just hard acceleration for a very brief moment. If it shudders, then it's a transmission problem. I use this loosely, as it could be a hydraulic solenoid sticking, a bad electrical connection, or a bad clutch. Unlikely, but it does happen.

Find a stretch of road that isn't high traffic, and test it to find out the exact circumstances and speed that it happens.

Also, the speeds I mentioned are the speeds per my speedometer. If you have different tires or (?) your numbers could possibly be a little different.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 11:45 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 4481
Location: Central GA
GordnadoCRD wrote:
jeepmichelle1 wrote:
After reading your guide, i think i have torque converter shudder. Ive had my CRD for about 5 years and i experience a shudder in my engine whenever my vehicle is trying to shift-- only going up steep(er) hills, in between 2000-2500 rpms. Ive been thinking its the tranny going bad, or such. But now im thinking it might be this. What exactly would be the symptoms of torque converter shudder and would it occur at the same rpm every time?
thanks!
Michelle

Shudder happens when the engine torque is greater than the friction resistance of a clutch. With the CRD, the transmission clutches are usually overkill, and the clutch that most commonly slips, is the lockup clutch in the torque converter.
Usually this happens under acceleration, and unless modified somehow, maximum engine torque happens around 2100rpm.
The CRD torque converter clutch locks/unlocks at about 48-52mph. If you are accelerating when this happens, and the shudder starts about there, then it's the torque converter lockup clutch.
The trans usually does the 3-4 upshift around 43-44mph. when you feel this shift, push the throttle hard but don't floor it, and keep the speed under the trans lockup speed. Just hard acceleration for a very brief moment. If it shudders, then it's a transmission problem. I use this loosely, as it could be a hydraulic solenoid sticking, a bad electrical connection, or a bad clutch. Unlikely, but it does happen.
Find a stretch of road that isn't high traffic, and test it to find out the exact circumstances and speed that it happens.
Also, the speeds I mentioned are the speeds per my speedometer. If you have different tires or (?) your numbers could possibly be a little different.

Below normal line pressure can also be a major factor in TC clutch slippage that can be caused by wear issues in the transmission front pump housing along with clutch lining embrittlement due to wear and age. :(
Low line pressure can contribute to below normal holding force on the TC lockup clutches when the TC is in the lockup mode of operation.

_________________
Proud Supporting Vendor of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:

Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stg4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit/BatteryTray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan/NAPA HDclutch
Ironrock Trilink
Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 2:00 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 27, 2016 9:12 pm
Posts: 2251
Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
WWDiesel wrote:
GordnadoCRD wrote:
jeepmichelle1 wrote:
After reading your guide, i think i have torque converter shudder. Ive had my CRD for about 5 years and i experience a shudder in my engine whenever my vehicle is trying to shift-- only going up steep(er) hills, in between 2000-2500 rpms. Ive been thinking its the tranny going bad, or such. But now im thinking it might be this. What exactly would be the symptoms of torque converter shudder and would it occur at the same rpm every time?
thanks!
Michelle

Shudder happens when the engine torque is greater than the friction resistance of a clutch. With the CRD, the transmission clutches are usually overkill, and the clutch that most commonly slips, is the lockup clutch in the torque converter.
Usually this happens under acceleration, and unless modified somehow, maximum engine torque happens around 2100rpm.
The CRD torque converter clutch locks/unlocks at about 48-52mph. If you are accelerating when this happens, and the shudder starts about there, then it's the torque converter lockup clutch.
The trans usually does the 3-4 upshift around 43-44mph. when you feel this shift, push the throttle hard but don't floor it, and keep the speed under the trans lockup speed. Just hard acceleration for a very brief moment. If it shudders, then it's a transmission problem. I use this loosely, as it could be a hydraulic solenoid sticking, a bad electrical connection, or a bad clutch. Unlikely, but it does happen.
Find a stretch of road that isn't high traffic, and test it to find out the exact circumstances and speed that it happens.
Also, the speeds I mentioned are the speeds per my speedometer. If you have different tires or (?) your numbers could possibly be a little different.

Below normal line pressure can also be a major factor in TC clutch slippage that can be caused by wear issues in the transmission front pump housing along with clutch lining embrittlement due to wear and age. :(
Low line pressure can contribute to below normal holding force on the TC lockup clutches when the TC is in the lockup mode of operation.
Yes, but I wasn't trying to diagnose the cause of the shudder at this point. Only to help determine if her problem 'Is or Is Not' converter shudder.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 15, 2019 1:29 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Tue Oct 11, 2016 5:29 pm
Posts: 3
GordnadoCRD wrote:
jeepmichelle1 wrote:
After reading your guide, i think i have torque converter shudder. Ive had my CRD for about 5 years and i experience a shudder in my engine whenever my vehicle is trying to shift-- only going up steep(er) hills, in between 2000-2500 rpms. Ive been thinking its the tranny going bad, or such. But now im thinking it might be this. What exactly would be the symptoms of torque converter shudder and would it occur at the same rpm every time?

thanks!
Michelle

Shudder happens when the engine torque is greater than the friction resistance of a clutch. With the CRD, the transmission clutches are usually overkill, and the clutch that most commonly slips, is the lockup clutch in the torque converter.

Usually this happens under acceleration, and unless modified somehow, maximum engine torque happens around 2100rpm.

The CRD torque converter clutch locks/unlocks at about 48-52mph. If you are accelerating when this happens, and the shudder starts about there, then it's the torque converter lockup clutch.

The trans usually does the 3-4 upshift around 43-44mph. when you feel this shift, push the throttle hard but don't floor it, and keep the speed under the trans lockup speed. Just hard acceleration for a very brief moment. If it shudders, then it's a transmission problem. I use this loosely, as it could be a hydraulic solenoid sticking, a bad electrical connection, or a bad clutch. Unlikely, but it does happen.

Find a stretch of road that isn't high traffic, and test it to find out the exact circumstances and speed that it happens.

Also, the speeds I mentioned are the speeds per my speedometer. If you have different tires or (?) your numbers could possibly be a little different.



thank you muchly! yep this is literally exactly what is going on. And you got the RPM spot on, too. It only happens when accelerating up a steep hill AND (i forgot) when accelerating towing a heavy load.
I am looking into a new torque converter asap. appreciate the well thought out explanation.

Michelle :jester:

_________________
2005 Liberty CRD


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 242 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 9, 10, 11, 12, 13  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group. Color scheme by ColorizeIt!
Logo by pixeldecals.com