It is currently Tue Oct 24, 2017 3:52 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 219 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 2:11 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie
User avatar

Joined: Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:21 pm
Posts: 91
Location: walnut,ms
Image

Great info. If only the po would have taken the time to read and understand how his engine performed i wouldnt be going through the motor right now. The only thing this guy ever did was change the oil using regular 15w 40, u can imagine what it looks like at the 200,000 mile point. Btw it still has original timing belt.

_________________
06 Libby, maf unplugged, flowmaster , 201,000 mi and still rolling
06 Jetta TDI
4020 JD
2640 JD
02 Chevy 2500HD 8.1L 496
64 Chevelle project
Kubota diesel mower
5.9 Cummins


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 2:06 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie
User avatar

Joined: Sun Sep 01, 2013 2:03 am
Posts: 95
Location: Sarasota, Florida
Image
Thanks for this incredible resource! I'm excited to be the new owner of a seemingly well taken care of CRD. Lookin forward to this experience. Hoping I won't regret it. But, then again, my previous trucklet was a pretty modified Suzuki, so I'm used to searching for, and waiting on parts, and shopping to get the best deals on them. It never left me stranded, though...and I'm not sure I will be able to say the same of this truck. Hopefully, an ounce of prevention....
:)

_________________
David T.
2005 CRD Limited 4X4 - Stone White
82,200 miles
RRO Rockfather Deluxe Lift (OME/KYB GR-2/RRO)
GDE Eco Tune
SAMCO Sport CAC Hoses
Hayden Fan Clutch
Updated Litens Serpentine Tensioner
European Graf Water Pump
Nitro Rear Diff Cover w/Lubelocker Gasket


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 01, 2013 2:27 pm 
Offline
Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri May 28, 2010 5:03 am
Posts: 1421
Location: Hawaii
MicroBruin wrote:
Image
Thanks for this incredible resource! I'm excited to be the new owner of a seemingly well taken care of CRD. Lookin forward to this experience. Hoping I won't regret it. But, then again, my previous trucklet was a pretty modified Suzuki, so I'm used to searching for, and waiting on parts, and shopping to get the best deals on them. It never left me stranded, though...and I'm not sure I will be able to say the same of this truck. Hopefully, an ounce of prevention....
:)


You'll find this a great resource, and yes prevention is great, but don't go overboard or you'll "fix it 'till it's broke."

_________________
Image

05 CRD Sport Dark Kahki

RRO: Adventure Rack/Rails ** MOPAR: Skids/Renny Flares & 255/75r17 (32.1) BFG M/T on JK wheels ** ARB: Bumper/IPF lights/790/948/shocks ** GDE: TCM/Hot Tune ** ROCKLIZARD: Super Sliders/Komodo Bumper

My Build Thread
US Army Infantry


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 2:38 am 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2014 8:51 pm
Posts: 2
This place is a goldmine for CRD owners. Thanks for all of the great info! Looking forward to enjoying my CRD as much as possible. Have only had it for 4 months but I've enjoyed every mile.

06 Liberty Limited
GDE eco tune
173k and counting


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 3:09 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2014 8:51 pm
Posts: 2
Image


Brilliant! Currently waiting on a new Serpentine belt tensioner assembly to arrive tomorrow from IDparts. The original had encountered a broken spring and no longer holds the belt in place. Can't get here soon enough.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2014 3:38 pm 
Offline
LOST Junkie

Joined: Sat Jun 01, 2013 12:39 pm
Posts: 588
Location: North east-central Illinois
http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/

Airtex E7181M In-tank Lift Pump

2005 Jeep Liberty CRD



Total time: 20 hours

For someone with more luck and skill it might take less time, but for me it took about 20 hours spread over 4 days. I'm sure it can be done in 19.

A big thanks to all the L.O.S.T. KJ contributors to these threads:

It's 10pm - where's your lift pump?

my jeep has factory wiring for a lift pump!

And especially: gmctd, dgeist, bill.barg, crdjon and ripster.



Parts List


In-tank Pump

So you want to buy a lift pump? Not so fast mister. There are (were) 3 to choose from:

Dodge 3500 Cummins 5143160AA
Airtex E7181M
Spectra Premium SP7181
I believe all 3 are discontinued awaiting a redesign from Dodge.

Some of the Cummins and the Airtexes might still be available. It took 7 weeks for my Airtex to get to me from Auto Parts Giant back in August 2008, but I only paid $131.71 delivered.


Wiring harness

or

Rewire existing

2006, 56047848AB ~ $52

2005, 56050284AB ~ $36

or

$5


All-weather, cold-shrink tape This tape doesn't stick to anything but itself.

Additional
Connector
terminals (pins)
FCI Apex 2.8mm terminals from NTI. $25 minimum order.

54001800 (female) and 54001801 (male).

You'll need 2 female and one male pin. Hardly a $25 order, but consider ordering some of these high quality, weather tight connectors and parts to use elsewhere.

Order the extraction tool, too. Part 5400ext. For $5 it's one of the handiest tools I have. It's not made by FCI so you might be able to find it elsewhere as, White Products Div (J. R. Greenleaf & Co).

You can order with a credit card, but NTI requires a shipping account. (Easy to set one up for free at UPS.com).


1/4" x 1/2" Bolt w/ Washer & Lock Washer
$1

Milk Crate
Who "buys" these?

Cooler
You've got one already. Not an excuse to get the stainless steel one.
Step 0: Prep

Clean the underside of the carriage before starting. I wish I had.
Make sure your vehicle is safe to work under by reading and following all instructions that came with any lifts, jacks or ramps.
Step 1: Lift Up Rear Seat and Pull Up Carpet

Better pictures than I have can be found here from dgeist.

And a good slide show of the whole process from Bill.Barg here.

Under the soundproofing layer you will find the connector with the pump wire.

The relay and fuse were already installed at the factory.

Step 2: Unplug Connector

Slide the red locking tab over.
Depress the latch, and
Pull apart.
Push the harness out through the floor pan.

Step 3: Disconnect Fuel Lines

First release the fuel lines from the fuel line hanger. I found this very hard to do even after I'd figured out the release mechanism. Basically you drive something to the left of the right-most opening in the top of the fitting. This will release the tab and allow you to pull the two halves apart.



But if the hanger was hard, I found the fuel line "quick disconnects" anything but quick. The tiny "button," flush with the connector, must be depressed fully as shown in this image.



Worse, they are rotated away from you under the chassis, so you have to feel around with your finger tip to locate them. This is hard to do on your back with big, fat, cold fingers and when the connectors are dirty. It took me near an hour to manage the two of them..



Step 4: Disconnect Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS)

And any other connectors on your harness.

Slide red tab back fully..
Depress release tab fully.
Pull.
Step 5: Disconnect Fuel Filler Tube & Vent

I made the mistake of thinking the weight of the tank would pull the hose off the inlet. Not! Disconnect the inlet as soon as you can.

There is also a vent tube to disconnect. Below is a picture shot below and behind the left rear wheel well. As you can see, it's all open. The connector to undo is just out of view in the channel to the right.



Step 6: Release Tank Straps & Drop Fuel Tank

I have the factory tow package and I was able to undo the bolts without removing the hitch using a "wobble" extension on my socket wrench. I was also able to bend the straps to clear the bumper.

I supported the tank on two jacks (a cradle of some kind would be superior).

I then released only the rear bolts holding the straps on.

This allows the tank to "ride" down on the straps to the ground.



I made a number of mistakes:

Too much fuel in the tank (about 8 gallons).
Didn't release filler hose before trying to drop the tank. I thought the weight of the tank would pull the loosened hose right off, it didn't.
I didn't undo the vent tube.
Tankless



Step 7: Add Wires or Modify "Gasser" Harness

There seem to be 3 approaches to the wiring:

Use the harness from a gas model Liberty and rearrange the pins. Here's a link to how to do that from gmctd.
Pull the wires from the gasser harness and transplant them into the existing harness. Here are crdjons' pictures.
Add two new wires.
I chose to simply add two new wires because I found a vendor for the connector (FCI Apex 2.8mm terminals available from NTI). I'd already ordered the harness, but I noticed it had an extra connector. Since it's a 2005, I also have the 5" problem. All-in-all I thought it would be easier to simply add the two wires to the existing harness.



This involves partial disassembly of the harness by removing the hangers and untaping the loom.

Below illustrates two things.

One, using a pick tool to release the binding on a wire hanger, and
Two, why one should wash the undercarriage first.




Here are the two ends of the harness rewired. I used 18 gauge wire; gray for hot and black for ground. As you can see, the 10-pin connector (right) is marked with pin #2 (the pump hot side). It goes to pin #4 on the 4-pin connector that connects to the tank.

The black ground wire terminates in the passenger area and does not use the 10-pin connector.



crdjon has excellent photos of how to add the wire here.

Bill.Barg here.

Ripster too here.

The Apex official instructions are here.

Rewired harness shown below.



Step 8: Reinstall Harness

You will need to connect the ground wire to the chassis. A ground point is provided. I tapped mine out to take a 1/4" fine thread bolt, but you could probably use a self-tapping screw. The metal is soft and I threaded it without cutting oil and only a pair of Vice Grips to hold the tap.



I added a quick disconnect because I didn't leave enough wire.

Step 9: Remove Old In-tank Unit & Swap Float Arms
SAVE O-RING & FLOAT

Swapping floats will ensure your fuel gauge reads correctly.



Step 10: Modify Index Tab

While the tab issue has mostly revolved around the fuel level readings being correct, to me the bigger issue is keeping the same orientation so the pre-formed, plastic fuel lines aren't stressed or rub upon reinstall.

At left below is the new unit. I snipped off the area in red using wire cutters. This works, allowing precise alignment, but the tab is now smaller than the slot. When I hammered the retaining ring back in, it drifted counter clockwise.

Ideally it would help to somehow move the piece or otherwise restore the tab on the other side as shown in blue. Or reduce the size of the slot with epoxy putty or something. The solution to this part is left as an exercise for the reader.





Step 11: Install Lift Pump

The main problem here was that I couldn't get the retaining ring to rotate back into the second notch (i.e. compress the new o-ring).



The new unit came with a shiny new o-ring. I dutifully replaced the old green one, but as hard as I drove the ring with a hammer and screwdriver, I could not get it to seat back in the middle slot.

It is obvious that these rings are not set at the factory with a hammer and screwdriver, so I called the dealer to see if there was a special tool. Indeed there is and even on a Friday afternoon they would let me pop on over and compress the seal for me.

I drove over (did I mention not to start this project without having a spare car?) and after some discussion, because it's a diesel, shepherded me to a back garage. A diminutive older guy with a club foot eyed me wearily. He must be named "Crusty." I told him my problem. "Let's see what we can do," he said turning away and limping off to get what I imagined was the factory tool. I followed him to a tool chest where he slid open a lower drawer to reveal...hammers. Hammers! I almost burst out laughing. "We have the tool, but it doesn't work as well." He held up the hammer and out of no where a towering assistant appeared to take it. "Hammer the ring in for this gentleman would you Igor." [I made up the Igor part].

Well no matter how hard Igor hit the ring it wouldn't seat. They concluded the ring was too fat and suggested I use the old one. This I did and the ring seated with a few taps.

In hindsight I should probably have tried softening the new ring in warm water.

gmctd added....

The correct method of installing the clamp ring with a hammer and drift driver is to triangulate the thrust and parry, which keeps the ring centered: select any slot, tap it, then move to any of the other two slots at 120* angle from the first, alternating the hits between the three slots at 0°, 120°, 240°, 0°, etc, keeping the clamp centered in the tank ears and on the module - can also do 4 slots at 0°, 180°, 90°, 270°, 0°, etc - just takes a little more time - and, since these CRD KJ's are less than three years old, reusing the original gasket is a good option, making installation even easier - the Miller SPX #9340 tool is also easier, tho requiring two people, one to hold the tank, one to compress and manipulate the 1/2" drive break-over bar.



Step 12: Test Unit

Since I had too much fuel in the tank I used the new pump to pump it out. I was thus able to verify that the fuel gauge works correctly. It does. Even with the float misaligned, but float arms swapped.



Step 12: Reinstall Tank

It ain't pretty and it ain't fast...



This was tedious work. The more so because I thought I might break the plastic fuel lines, so I didn't put them on until the tank was half way up. A difficult task in tight space.

Reconnect and re-hang:: Filler Hose, Vent Hose, Fuel Lines, Fuel Pump, VSS.

Step 13: Prime System

Turn key to the "ON" not "Start" then to "OFF". This initiates 20-seconds of pump time. You should hear it whirring away.
Repeat.
Check to see if there is any air to purge from the fuel filter head.
If yes, purge manually.
If no, start your engine
Step 14: Test Drive & Leak Check

Postscript

It works and runs great. My motor used to go "takatakataka." Now it goes "tikatikatika." As other have also reported my FM reception is greatly improved and my bald spot is growing back in. A highly recommended mod.

_________________
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 142,000 miles New engine 2-2014, Green Eco tune, FS2500 bypass filter Weeks elbow, European Torque converter, brakes front UCA's wheel bearing and front hubs. Front hitch OEM lift pump
98 K2500 Suburban 6.5td
96 K1500 " 6.5td
95 2 door Tahoe 6.5td
94 K3500 cc srw 5 speed 6.5td
91 International Model 6 speed spicer 4700


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 8:18 am 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Sun Feb 23, 2014 4:41 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan
Image

_________________
2014 Jeep Cherokee Latitude
V6 4X4


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2014 8:39 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:24 pm
Posts: 36
Hi guys new to diesels jeep world bought a 05 crd 2.8 and love the car just having problems when towing my boat temp shoots to hot when climbing big hills but goes back to half when I get to level ground no prob without the boat on the back boat not that heavy skeeter 170 about 1400 kg living in Australia and can't find anybody that knows what there doing with jeep diesels seems every one just sees dollar signs when you drive in and start asking questions any help would be much appreciated


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 12:44 am 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 5:42 am
Posts: 2044
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Touf1973 wrote:
Hi guys new to diesels jeep world bought a 05 crd 2.8 and love the car just having problems when towing my boat temp shoots to hot when climbing big hills but goes back to half when I get to level ground no prob without the boat on the back boat not that heavy skeeter 170 about 1400 kg living in Australia and can't find anybody that knows what there doing with jeep diesels seems every one just sees dollar signs when you drive in and start asking questions any help would be much appreciated

You might need a new fan clutch. Search here for the Hayden 2905.

_________________
05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Suncoast TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat,
RL super sliders, Frankenlift IIP, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 27, 2014 1:13 am 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Tue Feb 25, 2014 9:24 pm
Posts: 36
Thanks will try that such a helpfull site


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 9:31 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:37 pm
Posts: 73
Just getting my head gasket done with ARP studs.
Chris at Autobahn in Phoenix suggested a Provent after cleaning up my intake.
Since I'm running a GDE Eco-tune would this still be necessary. I thought the eco-tune
shuts off the EGR and CCV?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2014 11:48 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 5:42 am
Posts: 2044
Location: Fort Collins, CO
jtz54 wrote:
Just getting my head gasket done with ARP studs.
Chris at Autobahn in Phoenix suggested a Provent after cleaning up my intake.
Since I'm running a GDE Eco-tune would this still be necessary. I thought the eco-tune
shuts off the EGR and CCV?

If you shut off CCV you will blow out engine seals. It can either be vented to atmosphere or filtered by a Provent (a very nice piece BTW).
If not done it will eventually rot out your intake hoses. A tune can't do this.

_________________
05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Suncoast TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat,
RL super sliders, Frankenlift IIP, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 28, 2014 4:10 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Mon May 03, 2010 12:20 am
Posts: 69
Location: Colorado
[img]http://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/noobguide.jpg

Pretty darn helpfull stuff. I just bought an '05 CRD and because of this site, I was able to make a very informed decision on the purchase, not to mention the most important items to do immediately after the purchase. THANKS!!!

edit: Well, the pasting didn't work, but then, I'm a little challenged in that department.

_________________
Marty

'05 CRD, GDE tune(s), JBA stuff, OME, Weeks Stage I & II +++


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2014 6:09 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2014 12:53 am
Posts: 12
Sir Sam, you should add to the "step 5, change your oil" topic a list of the recommended engine oils. I've spent at least an hour looking, and can't find that info, even though I know I've seen it mentioned in several places before.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2014 6:14 pm 
Offline
LOST Member
User avatar

Joined: Fri Feb 01, 2013 1:20 am
Posts: 154
Location: Denver, CO
GliderGuy wrote:
Sir Sam, you should add to the "step 5, change your oil" topic a list of the recommended engine oils. I've spent at least an hour looking, and can't find that info, even though I know I've seen it mentioned in several places before.


He probably hasn't included that information, because there are whole (and very lengthy/heated) threads dedicated to the debate of which oil/filter and why. FWIW, after researching for days, I ended up going with Mobile 1 Turbo Diesel Truck (5W-40) via Amazon. It was recommended by many, seemed like the best bang for the buck, and was delivered free to my door.

_________________
06 CRD Sport (silver), factory skids, Fumoto Valve, DIY cross bars, LT245/75R16, Hayden fan HD clutch, lift pump, ProVent.

05 CRD Limited (black), factory skids, Fumoto Valve, ARP Studs, Hayden HD fan clutch, EGR delete, Seyfert CRD Stage 2, 225/70R16, EGT gauge


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2014 9:39 pm 
Offline
LOST Addict
User avatar

Joined: Sat Aug 24, 2013 11:36 pm
Posts: 2993
Location: Central GA
kidjedi wrote:
GliderGuy wrote:
Sir Sam, you should add to the "step 5, change your oil" topic a list of the recommended engine oils. I've spent at least an hour looking, and can't find that info, even though I know I've seen it mentioned in several places before.


He probably hasn't included that information, because there are whole (and very lengthy/heated) threads dedicated to the debate of which oil/filter and why. FWIW, after researching for days, I ended up going with Mobile 1 Turbo Diesel Truck (5W-40) via Amazon. It was recommended by many, seemed like the best bang for the buck, and was delivered free to my door.

Very good choice, you can't go wrong with the Mobile 1 Turbo Diesel Truck (5W-40), very good and stable oil for Diesel engines.... :D

_________________
2005 Jeep LibertyCRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stage4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit & Battery Tray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast&Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic. Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat,
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan / Hayden HD clutch
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2014 9:04 am 
Offline
LOST Newbie
User avatar

Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2014 9:50 pm
Posts: 53
Location: Denton, TX
Image

Thank you Sir Sam for this great post. I've read it 5 times in less than a week.

I just purchased my first CRD. I say "my first" because I like it so much, I might keep looking for another.

_________________
2005 Silver Limited Liberty CRD. Purchased with 133k. Rotella T6 5w-40 at Mob1-301. 2nd gen fuel filter head.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2014 8:42 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2014 12:53 am
Posts: 12
I have downloaded the 05 and 06 parts fiches from Colorado4wheel, and can find all the wiring harnesses. What I can't seem to find is section 8W, which appears to have the interconnection diagrams. I see people posting excerpts from it, where are they finding that?

Thanks in advance,
Ed


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 11:16 am 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Sat Aug 30, 2014 10:42 am
Posts: 2
Hi All

Having read this thread due to encountering similar problems I have found it really helpful. My 2.8 crd which has been running absolutely fine for the past few years all of a sudden decided to cut out on me whilst I was on holiday last week with no warning :(

I was in a little country back road in the middle of nowhere going up a steep hill and it just died. It restarted again straight away and I thought it was just one of those things. After a bit of lunch in a seaside village we set off again and going up a steep hill it died and then restarted again straight away.

The next morning it was a struggle to start so I called out the RAC and they could find no fault visible or with the computer scan, I changed the battery and all the basics just to be on the safe side and carried on with my holiday. Knowing I had a long drive home ahead of me I decided to be heavy footed with it to put it through its paces and see if it would do it again. For 200 miles it was fine when we headed back I did about 100 miles all fine and just as I was getting on to the motorway it died again with no warning.

I googled the nearest dealership and headed there to see if they could fix it and they were about as helpful as a chocolate tea pot and couldn't do anything at all as their mechanic was on holiday ! I called the RAC out again and they could find no faults and no faults showed on a scan again.

I took it home via back roads rather than chance cutting out on the motorway and for the whole 11 hour journey it didn't miss a beat. It started up this morning fine and after reading this thread I decided to have a look at the various things people are talking about.

At 100,000 miles I expect my air intake hoses to be dirty but they were clean, just a light mist of oil as you would expect. However the clip at the turbo end of the big intake hose was not tight the hose had been pushed on as its a difficult screw to get to. I have done that up now as the garage I have used obviously couldn't be bothered I expect it could draw air through but I cant see that making it cut out. All the inners of the intake body are shiny a clean as are the fan blades etc, sensors are clean and not coated in soot either so I was scratching my head.

I got the wife to start it up and give it a rev for some reason I put my screwdriver on the fuel filter bleed screw and the engine died. I turned it to see if it was tight and it was but not fully tight, I got another 1/4 of a turn so I wound it out and there was some crap on the o ring. I cleaned this and put back pushed the prime pump up and down a few times whilst I tightened it and it started fine.

The only thing that I can think of so far if this doesn't happen again is a badly seated o ring seal on the filter housing and the other common factor I forgot to mention is each time it cut out I was on a full tank of fuel. My guess is at the moment that with a full tank behind it and putting a full load on the throttle its enough to draw a small amount of air through the o ring????

By the way, on the model I have it differs to the pics on this thread. I have a mopar filter but with a white plastic screw bleed valve and prime pump lifter plus my air box has no sensor going to it as in the pics on this thread. Dont know if thats a differing UK spec.

Plus what make of engine is in the 2003 2.8crd ??? I have been told by different people its a BMW diesel, a Fiat diesel and a Chrysler diesel....how do I tell? Apparently the later ones have a merc lump.

One question I do have is the sensor that goes to the EGR (???) with a paper element filter at the bottom of it continues to buzz or draw air for quite a while after the engine has shut off. Is that normal?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2014 6:32 pm 
Offline
LOST Newbie

Joined: Fri Dec 26, 2014 1:36 am
Posts: 81
Location: west Kentucky
Image

Thanks for all this wonderful info on these awesome engines. Now I can make my GF's jeep better than mine. Lol

_________________
91 yj- 2.5L bored, cammed, ported intake,4.0tb,ford 19lb injectors,2.5 exhaust, Ax5 4.88 gears 3.5 BDSlift 33x10.5 bfg km2 lock right(front diff) 8.8 rear, sye, external slave, Durango steering box, browndog off-road mounts


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 219 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1 ... 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 28 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group. Color scheme by ColorizeIt!
Logo by pixeldecals.com