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Sam's CRD Noob Guide:
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=54207
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Author:  Grotsoldaat [ Mon Jun 25, 2018 8:15 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

Very useful topic this one. As I eliminated the EGR, it's time to clean the MAP!


Image

Author:  k9adv [ Mon Jul 02, 2018 11:11 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

Image

thanks !

should be embarking on all of this soon.

Author:  WWDiesel [ Mon Jul 02, 2018 11:21 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

k9adv wrote:
thanks !
should be embarking on all of this soon.

Good for you!
If you need help with anything, just ask, plenty of good experienced people on this forum more than willing to answer any questions and offer advice.... :wink:

Author:  k9adv [ Sun Jul 22, 2018 12:09 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

WWDiesel wrote:
The IAP sensor on the inlet side of the air cleaner housing is commonly referred to as the "Mercedes Sensor". It is located in front of the MAF sensor as you described.

IAP sensor - 05101120AB (pressure sensor on side of airbox)
air inlet air pressure comparator pressure sensor on the side of the air box; referred as the Mercedes sensor.

:SOMBRERO:


Thanks !

And...
The Bosch part number for this is 0261230189.
And it is also known by Mercedes OEM Code: A0051535028
Dodge OEM Code: 05101120AB.

It is commonly named in sales listings as a "Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor" (hence why auto parts stores know it as a MAP Sensor).
Such as here: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-0261230189 ... B00P076S8G

It is also called known as a "Turbo Boost Sensor" at Autozone, for example (open link to see title):
https://www.autozone.com/engine-managem ... 28_22737_0

I just purchased a Bosch 0261230189, due to a P1854 code my CRD has.

Author:  stonymaness [ Sat Sep 29, 2018 5:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

[img][/imghttp://colorado4wheel.com/images/misc/noobguide.jpg

Author:  stonymaness [ Sat Sep 29, 2018 5:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

Great guide....06 CRD 146000Miles Just replaced with ARP, new rockers (hydraulic function was not working at all in old rockers, new head gasket, samco, map, stage 1 and 2 ear delete, gp's, timing belt/tensioner/pulleys etc, harmonic balancer, serpentine idlers, serpentine belt, Alterator clutch pulley) Running like a champ now. onto suspension.
What caused going in so deep was pulling out #4 GP and the tip was broken off...not being sure if i had caused this to drop into the cylinder I felt it safer to pull head and inspect. As it turns out there were a few nicks in the piston and head where it must have passed the pieces....cylinder and everything looked fine. This board has been outstanding! I'm a decent mechanic but was good to have so many guides out there for this great little SUV.

Author:  GordnadoCRD [ Sat Sep 29, 2018 7:06 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

stonymaness wrote:
Great guide....06 CRD 146000Miles Just replaced with ARP, new rockers (hydraulic function was not working at all in old rockers, new head gasket, samco, map, stage 1 and 2 ear delete, gp's, timing belt/tensioner/pulleys etc, harmonic balancer, serpentine idlers, serpentine belt, Alterator clutch pulley) Running like a champ now. onto suspension.
What caused going in so deep was pulling out #4 GP and the tip was broken off...not being sure if i had caused this to drop into the cylinder I felt it safer to pull head and inspect. As it turns out there were a few nicks in the piston and head where it must have passed the pieces....cylinder and everything looked fine. This board has been outstanding! I'm a decent mechanic but was good to have so many guides out there for this great little SUV.

If you suspect it passed the pieces through the exhaust, you need to pull your turbo and make sure nothing was captured or damaged there in the exhaust turbine side. If this happened while it was running at power, it will have made definite impact events. And (if it's completely stock) it passed on out into the exhaust it will have been caught in the inlet chamber of the Catalytic Converter, and is contributing to restricted exhaust flow there.

Author:  WWDiesel [ Sat Sep 29, 2018 10:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

GordnadoCRD wrote:
And (if it's completely stock) it passed on out into the exhaust it will have been caught in the inlet chamber of the Catalytic Converter, and is contributing to restricted exhaust flow there.

And if it is a large enough piece, it could fly around in the CAT and beat the crap out of the honeycomb and eventually stop the CAT up. :(

Author:  Alexporze [ Mon Feb 04, 2019 1:13 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

can someone point out the glow plugs in that first picture of the engine block?
Alex

Author:  TKB4 [ Wed Feb 06, 2019 4:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

They can't be seen in the picture. The first one is just behind the alternator in the picture. they are on driver side of head beneath the overhanging intake valve cover and hidden also by intake calc hose and flow control valve.

Author:  WWDiesel [ Wed Feb 06, 2019 10:07 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

GP's 3 & 4

Image

Author:  BonezTheGoon [ Fri Mar 01, 2019 12:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

This is my first post to these forums.

[Edit] UPDATE!!!! Skip my graphic and see the next AWESOME post instead! (the rest of this post preserved for thread continuity only) [/Edit]

I haven't been able to find something like this ANYWHERE and I've been searching quite a while. I'm not certain I have this correct so please correct me (hopefully without flaming me) if I am wrong. I'm posting it here in the Noob guide as I am a Noob and if it isn't shot down entirely I feel like other Noobs like myself might benefit from it.

Serpentine Belt routing.

Image

Author:  WWDiesel [ Fri Mar 01, 2019 5:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

The water pump is driven by the timing belt.

Belt Routing Diagram:

Image

Author:  BonezTheGoon [ Sat Mar 02, 2019 12:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

WWDiesel THANK YOU!!!!! Sooooo awesome! Did you buy some fancy shop manual to get such a glorious diagram? That is exactly what I was looking for!

It was baffling to me that a water pump would be on the serpentine belt. I've never seen a "heater pump" (per se) before and since I could see it clearly was connected to coolant lines I made the best assumption I could without better information.

Thank you for taking the time to politely correct me and provide a MUCH more useful resource!!! I really cannot express how much I appreciate when a community comes together to help one another!

Author:  WWDiesel [ Sat Mar 02, 2019 4:12 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

BonezTheGoon wrote:
WWDiesel THANK YOU!!!!! Sooooo awesome! Did you buy some fancy shop manual to get such a glorious diagram? That is exactly what I was looking for!
It was baffling to me that a water pump would be on the serpentine belt. I've never seen a "heater pump" (per se) before and since I could see it clearly was connected to coolant lines I made the best assumption I could without better information.
Thank you for taking the time to politely correct me and provide a MUCH more useful resource!!! I really cannot express how much I appreciate when a community comes together to help one another!

No problem,
I have hundreds of colorized drawings, diagrams, and pictures on file for the Jeep 2.8 CRD.
If you need something, just me a shout, if I don't have it, I can sometimes find it or at least draw it on computer. :wink:
That is what makes this forum so great, helping each other whenever possible.

This link may be of help to you for future reference?
Save it,
Index of /manuals/Jeep/KJ
http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

:SOMBRERO:

Author:  jeepmichelle1 [ Fri Apr 12, 2019 2:06 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

After reading your guide, i think i have torque converter shudder. Ive had my CRD for about 5 years and i experience a shudder in my engine whenever my vehicle is trying to shift-- only going up steep(er) hills, in between 2000-2500 rpms. Ive been thinking its the tranny going bad, or such. But now im thinking it might be this. What exactly would be the symptoms of torque converter shudder and would it occur at the same rpm every time?

thanks!
Michelle

Author:  GordnadoCRD [ Sat Apr 13, 2019 9:28 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

jeepmichelle1 wrote:
After reading your guide, i think i have torque converter shudder. Ive had my CRD for about 5 years and i experience a shudder in my engine whenever my vehicle is trying to shift-- only going up steep(er) hills, in between 2000-2500 rpms. Ive been thinking its the tranny going bad, or such. But now im thinking it might be this. What exactly would be the symptoms of torque converter shudder and would it occur at the same rpm every time?

thanks!
Michelle

Shudder happens when the engine torque is greater than the friction resistance of a clutch. With the CRD, the transmission clutches are usually overkill, and the clutch that most commonly slips, is the lockup clutch in the torque converter.

Usually this happens under acceleration, and unless modified somehow, maximum engine torque happens around 2100rpm.

The CRD torque converter clutch locks/unlocks at about 48-52mph. If you are accelerating when this happens, and the shudder starts about there, then it's the torque converter lockup clutch.

The trans usually does the 3-4 upshift around 43-44mph. when you feel this shift, push the throttle hard but don't floor it, and keep the speed under the trans lockup speed. Just hard acceleration for a very brief moment. If it shudders, then it's a transmission problem. I use this loosely, as it could be a hydraulic solenoid sticking, a bad electrical connection, or a bad clutch. Unlikely, but it does happen.

Find a stretch of road that isn't high traffic, and test it to find out the exact circumstances and speed that it happens.

Also, the speeds I mentioned are the speeds per my speedometer. If you have different tires or (?) your numbers could possibly be a little different.

Author:  WWDiesel [ Sat Apr 13, 2019 11:45 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

GordnadoCRD wrote:
jeepmichelle1 wrote:
After reading your guide, i think i have torque converter shudder. Ive had my CRD for about 5 years and i experience a shudder in my engine whenever my vehicle is trying to shift-- only going up steep(er) hills, in between 2000-2500 rpms. Ive been thinking its the tranny going bad, or such. But now im thinking it might be this. What exactly would be the symptoms of torque converter shudder and would it occur at the same rpm every time?
thanks!
Michelle

Shudder happens when the engine torque is greater than the friction resistance of a clutch. With the CRD, the transmission clutches are usually overkill, and the clutch that most commonly slips, is the lockup clutch in the torque converter.
Usually this happens under acceleration, and unless modified somehow, maximum engine torque happens around 2100rpm.
The CRD torque converter clutch locks/unlocks at about 48-52mph. If you are accelerating when this happens, and the shudder starts about there, then it's the torque converter lockup clutch.
The trans usually does the 3-4 upshift around 43-44mph. when you feel this shift, push the throttle hard but don't floor it, and keep the speed under the trans lockup speed. Just hard acceleration for a very brief moment. If it shudders, then it's a transmission problem. I use this loosely, as it could be a hydraulic solenoid sticking, a bad electrical connection, or a bad clutch. Unlikely, but it does happen.
Find a stretch of road that isn't high traffic, and test it to find out the exact circumstances and speed that it happens.
Also, the speeds I mentioned are the speeds per my speedometer. If you have different tires or (?) your numbers could possibly be a little different.

Below normal line pressure can also be a major factor in TC clutch slippage that can be caused by wear issues in the transmission front pump housing along with clutch lining embrittlement due to wear and age. :(
Low line pressure can contribute to below normal holding force on the TC lockup clutches when the TC is in the lockup mode of operation.

Author:  GordnadoCRD [ Sun Apr 14, 2019 2:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

WWDiesel wrote:
GordnadoCRD wrote:
jeepmichelle1 wrote:
After reading your guide, i think i have torque converter shudder. Ive had my CRD for about 5 years and i experience a shudder in my engine whenever my vehicle is trying to shift-- only going up steep(er) hills, in between 2000-2500 rpms. Ive been thinking its the tranny going bad, or such. But now im thinking it might be this. What exactly would be the symptoms of torque converter shudder and would it occur at the same rpm every time?
thanks!
Michelle

Shudder happens when the engine torque is greater than the friction resistance of a clutch. With the CRD, the transmission clutches are usually overkill, and the clutch that most commonly slips, is the lockup clutch in the torque converter.
Usually this happens under acceleration, and unless modified somehow, maximum engine torque happens around 2100rpm.
The CRD torque converter clutch locks/unlocks at about 48-52mph. If you are accelerating when this happens, and the shudder starts about there, then it's the torque converter lockup clutch.
The trans usually does the 3-4 upshift around 43-44mph. when you feel this shift, push the throttle hard but don't floor it, and keep the speed under the trans lockup speed. Just hard acceleration for a very brief moment. If it shudders, then it's a transmission problem. I use this loosely, as it could be a hydraulic solenoid sticking, a bad electrical connection, or a bad clutch. Unlikely, but it does happen.
Find a stretch of road that isn't high traffic, and test it to find out the exact circumstances and speed that it happens.
Also, the speeds I mentioned are the speeds per my speedometer. If you have different tires or (?) your numbers could possibly be a little different.

Below normal line pressure can also be a major factor in TC clutch slippage that can be caused by wear issues in the transmission front pump housing along with clutch lining embrittlement due to wear and age. :(
Low line pressure can contribute to below normal holding force on the TC lockup clutches when the TC is in the lockup mode of operation.
Yes, but I wasn't trying to diagnose the cause of the shudder at this point. Only to help determine if her problem 'Is or Is Not' converter shudder.

Author:  jeepmichelle1 [ Mon Apr 15, 2019 1:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Sam's CRD Noob Guide:

GordnadoCRD wrote:
jeepmichelle1 wrote:
After reading your guide, i think i have torque converter shudder. Ive had my CRD for about 5 years and i experience a shudder in my engine whenever my vehicle is trying to shift-- only going up steep(er) hills, in between 2000-2500 rpms. Ive been thinking its the tranny going bad, or such. But now im thinking it might be this. What exactly would be the symptoms of torque converter shudder and would it occur at the same rpm every time?

thanks!
Michelle

Shudder happens when the engine torque is greater than the friction resistance of a clutch. With the CRD, the transmission clutches are usually overkill, and the clutch that most commonly slips, is the lockup clutch in the torque converter.

Usually this happens under acceleration, and unless modified somehow, maximum engine torque happens around 2100rpm.

The CRD torque converter clutch locks/unlocks at about 48-52mph. If you are accelerating when this happens, and the shudder starts about there, then it's the torque converter lockup clutch.

The trans usually does the 3-4 upshift around 43-44mph. when you feel this shift, push the throttle hard but don't floor it, and keep the speed under the trans lockup speed. Just hard acceleration for a very brief moment. If it shudders, then it's a transmission problem. I use this loosely, as it could be a hydraulic solenoid sticking, a bad electrical connection, or a bad clutch. Unlikely, but it does happen.

Find a stretch of road that isn't high traffic, and test it to find out the exact circumstances and speed that it happens.

Also, the speeds I mentioned are the speeds per my speedometer. If you have different tires or (?) your numbers could possibly be a little different.



thank you muchly! yep this is literally exactly what is going on. And you got the RPM spot on, too. It only happens when accelerating up a steep hill AND (i forgot) when accelerating towing a heavy load.
I am looking into a new torque converter asap. appreciate the well thought out explanation.

Michelle :jester:

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