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 Post subject: Turbo Boost Gauge?
PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2005 6:23 pm 
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Anyone thought about adding one of these?

I want to add one to mine just for the cool factor, but I also want to have one just for the fact that I know it's working and when it's doing it's job. Just a guy thing I think ........

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 8:58 am 
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I bought a pyrometer and a boost gauge...but haven't figured out where to install them yet. I'm looking for a nice (cheap) solution.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 10:12 am 
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Pyros: Drop your exhaust pipe, drill a hole in it, weld a fitting over the hole, install the thermocouple, your done. If you bought an infrared you just point it at the exhaust manifold, on a bracket and your done.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 4:25 pm 
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Ideally the EGT probe should be installed pre-turbo. With my 2003 RAM 2500 w/CTD the gauge aids me more at shut-down....I always allow the truck to idle until the EGT's hit 300* F or less before turning off; I would guess the CRD's are at or near the same if I were guessing, based on the amount of idle time recommended in the owner's manual. Maybe we'll get lucky and EDGE will have the Juice w/Attitude out for the CRD soon.....I have one in my CTD and love it.
Greg

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 Post subject: Turbo timer
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:16 pm 
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All,

This brought up a question I have. On my 3rd Gen RX-7 (twin-turbo) it was common to add a "turbo timer" which would idle the engine for 2 minutes before shutting it down to allow the turbos to cool. On my Subaru WRX it has a passive water cooling system that cools the turbo even after the engine is off so I haven't thought about needing to do anything special for the turbo. Do I need to worry about the CRD's? My wife is already giving me grief about how "complicated" the CRD will be (having to find diesel stations, pausing for the glow plugs on start-up, etc). If I try to tell her she has to idle the Jeep for a couple minutes before shut-off she's not going to be happy.

Any advice?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:30 pm 
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I've never idled my Crd is this bad? What will happen? It seems that the turbo would cool down just sitting there wouldn't it? You don't really have to wait for the glow plugs I've personally never even seen the light.

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 Post subject: Turbo idling
PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2005 6:48 pm 
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On the RX-7 (and many others) the turbo is only cooled when the engine is running (turbo Porsches and such have electric oil pumps that circulate oil when the key's off - my Subaru has a passive water-cooler) so if the engine is shut down when the turbo's are red hot the cast iron turbo housing can become brittle and crack (basically, parts of the housing will cool at different rates causing stresses to build up which can damage the housing).

I don't know if this is a problem on diesels or the CRD in particular.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 8:50 am 
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I should have been more clear...

I know where to install the probes...I haven't decided where/how to install the GAUGES themselves in the cabin. Any suggestions on that?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 9:03 am 
As far as letting the engine idle to cool the turbo:

YES, you have to do it. Look in your user manual and there is a chart for the CRD that lists different cool down times in minutes based on use of the vehicle for that particular drive (i.e. heavy towing versus unloaded city driving). It varies from "less than one minute" to "5 minutes". In most cases it appears that daily driving will involve a 1 or 2 minute cool down. :roll:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 1:22 pm 
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I can't find any suppliers selling gauge cluster housings for the Liberty, so I think it's going to have to be fabricated. I see three homemade options for installing a nice gauge cluster in the Liberty.

1) Replace the driver's side OS handle on the A-pillar. That would give you two nice predrilled mounting holes and a depression in the existing panel to recess things a bit. A cluster housing is going to be a pain to match to that material/color/texture though, unless you're talented in plastics fabrication.

2) Set the gauge(s) below the driver's side A pillar OS handle. Mount to A-pillar or dash. Either mount point is going to have the same plastic-housing fabrication problem listed above though.

3) Space 3 VDO gauges a bit apart and slightly above the two center air vents. Opens up opportunity for a couple more gauges and the more utilitarian dash material would be easier to replicate. The utilitarian material also opens up more of an opportunity to have a less "finished" mounting technique.

And, I suppose, (4) just bolt it to your hood with a stainless L bracket. :-)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2005 2:45 pm 
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FarmDiesel wrote:
I should have been more clear...

I know where to install the probes...I haven't decided where/how to install the GAUGES themselves in the cabin. Any suggestions on that?

Yeah, do a search on this forum for Gauge pods. There is a link somewhere on this site to a cool website selling A-pillar Gauge Pods.

Edit: Try here: http://www.gaugepods.com/

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2005 8:51 am 
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As with most Liberty mods...02-04 ONLY.

Any other suggestions? I'm thinking the L bracket idea works.

I'm waiting for someone to suggest Peanut Butter.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 2:05 am 
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FarmDiesel wrote:
As with most Liberty mods...02-04 ONLY.

Any other suggestions? I'm thinking the L bracket idea works.

I'm waiting for someone to suggest Peanut Butter.



Haven't seen any newer posts on this so here goes. The part numbers on the A-piller for '04 are the same as the '05 Liberty. I ordered mine form Lo-tek (gaugepods.com). I just got mine so I haven't had a chance to see how it fits. I going to install a EGT and a Boost gauge. I'm going to install the EGT in the exhaust just after the turbo. As for the boost gauge I haven't figured that one out yet. Anybody have any ideas as to where to connect?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 10:02 am 
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Having just selected my pyrometer and boost gauge, I am in the process of mapping the same functions. Ordering the A pillar two gauge mount to house the autometers. Ken (n3qik) did an excellent boost gauge installation write up complete with pictures a while back. I believe he drilled the ball stud mount for the engine cover and used that for the tubing connector.

I'm thinking of drilling the intake tube (the round aluminum tube on the drivers side of the engine) between the intake manifold and the anti-shudder valve. I don't know if that tubing is thick enough to stand the stress of a threaded 1/8" fitting. For the EGT probe, I'm planning on installing the probe on the exhaust manifold itself, in line with the turbo. My reasons are that should any problems develop, the intake tube and the exhaust manifold are less expensive to replace than a turbo and the intake manifold.

Looking forward to seeing the temps and boost readings, especially in summertime temps climbing the
Blue Ridge parkway.

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 Post subject: Boost Gauge - Electric versus Manual
PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 11:20 am 
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Does anyone have any experience with electric boost gagues? I'm trying to decide between the two types. Electric has a sender unit that converts from air pressure to an electrical signal, which is connected to the gauge itself, instead of tubing running all the way to a mechanical gauge. Electric boost gauges cost more, but I like the idea of running wire instead of tubing to the interior gauge pillar.

My question is how accurate is the electrical boost gauge? Response time? Less bounce? Slower/Faster response?

Anyone?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 12:11 pm 
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Guys, check out http://www.bd-power.com or http://www.genosgarage.com. They have a unit called the BD X-Monitor. One version of it has a universal dash/steering column LCD display that can display 2 (egt/boost) or 3 (egt/boost/trans temp) readings. It's about the size of a pack of cigarettes, and should fit nicely right on the steering column without blocking off your view of it. Lists for about $400, kinda pricey, but then you're paying for 3 gauges in one. I was going to pop for one, but decided to wait when I heard that Edge and Bully Dog would eventually be coming up with something. If they keep putting it off though, I might just get tired of waiting and go ahead and get one installed.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 12:29 pm 
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Turbo cooldown is not just for the housing, but also for the oil lubricated (and cooled) bearings. If they're too hot when you shut down, the oil that's left in the bearings can end up being cooked and forming a sludge (I believe it's called coking) that can end up clogging up the oil passages to the bearings, and with no oil those bearings will eat themselves in short order.

I've already seen a report on one thread, where someone not only used the wrong oil, but didn't follow the cooldown table, and ended up trashing their turbo. They probably could have gotten way with using the wrong oil IF they had followed the cooldown table.

Perhaps I'm a little anal about it, but on startup as well, I always let it idle for 10 to 15 seconds before putting it in gear, to make sure it's had time to get some oil up to that turbo.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2006 5:36 pm 
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Mitch is correct here for sure. I use that start up time to put on seat belt and a look at the gages.

Same on shut down, if I came right off the highway I let run a couple of minutes and may exit the vehicle and stretch the legs or get the kinks out of the back that sort of thing before shuting of the engine. If I am fueling just off the highway I leave it running while fueling.

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