How to put a 2 micron Racor filter on a Mopar head

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Aug 01, 2010 8:28 pm

Adapter kit used to install a 2 micron Racor filter onto a Mopar head. The heater, temp sensor, and WIF have all been reused:

WIF adapter:

Old filter:

Kit:

Center O ring:

Adapter plate screwing on:

Adapter plate screwed down:

Loctite on threads to keep thread adapter in place when changing filter elements:

Thread adapter installed:

Threading on Racor Filter element:

Racor Filter screwed unto Mopar head:

WIF and adapter installed:

Mopar filter head with 2 micron Racor filter installed.

Too much work with out CNC equipment, no plans to produce kits for others.

bakersoil · **Joined:** Fri Jul 23, 2010 5:43 am **Posts:** 68

But why didnt you just put the Cat 1r-0750 filter on? Very easy to make the adaptor.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Aug 01, 2010 8:54 pm

bakersoil wrote:

But why didnt you just put the Cat 1r-0750 filter on? Very easy to make the adaptor.

There were some problems with the Cat adapter that trashed out some (not all the ones with lift pumps do OK) cashy CP3 pumps. The problem was that you had to unscrew the Mopar center thread adapter and the heater puck would not align properly sometimes and allow air to leak in and trash the CP3 pump. My design you do not take the filter head apart, less chance of leaks. If any one copies my design, I recommend a lift pump. In fact I recommend a lift pump any way.
Personally, I prefer the Racor filter over the Cat, more parts commonality and used in a lot more applications. I can screw on a bigger filter element if I want to in the future, just need to extend the WIF sensor wires. Besides, the Cat does not have the WIF sensor capability.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Aug 01, 2010 11:16 pm

Very nicely done.

tonycrd · **Posted:** Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:04 am

Seems a bit pointless to me, the problems with these is the OEM head. Not the filter.

SPN-87 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 09, 2010 3:09 pm **Posts:** 53

warp2diesel wrote:

Adapter kit used to install a 2 micron Racor filter onto a Mopar head. The heater, temp sensor, and WIF have all been reused.......

Yes, the heater, fuel temp sensor and WIF sensor have all been reused.... But, as TonyCRD said - problem is in OEM fuel filter head, not in the filter element.
I used OEM Fuel Filter head assembly for 3 years and aftermarket OEM (Mopar) filter head for 6 monthes - both of them had the same problem (air/fuel leaking).

audiboy86 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 02, 2010 10:12 am

Just spend the money on the Racor set up it is proven to work with and without a lift pump. Plus at about the same cost as replacing the stock head. The only thing i suggest is getting a few filters when you order it and they are about the same cost as the Mopar filters.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 02, 2010 3:54 pm

tonycrd wrote:

Seems a bit pointless to me, the problems with these is the OEM head. Not the filter.

I have 36K miles on my stock Mopar Filter head, get rid of the air suck problem by adding a lift pump, no hot spots and heater burn out problems.
Unplug the heater relay and put it into the console, heater can't fail.

I have done both.

What I don't like about the stock filter is the ~3 micron to ~10 micron rating, 2 micron is much better.

SPN-87 · **Joined:** Tue Mar 09, 2010 3:09 pm **Posts:** 53

warp2diesel wrote:

I have 36K miles on my stock Mopar Filter head, get rid of the air suck problem by adding a lift pump, no hot spots and heater burn out problems.
Unplug the heater relay and put it into the console, heater can't fail.
I have done both.

My stock fuel head was failed last december when it was cold ( -25 C ). New redesigned head was failed at the end of february when it was cold too ( -30 C ). Without fuel heater it`s impossible to start crd in the morning ( after -32/35 C at night )

warp2diesel wrote:

What I don't like about the stock filter is the ~3 micron to ~10 micron rating, 2 micron is much better.

Are you sure ? I thought stock filter element is 10 micron as a best rating. Am i wrong ?

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Aug 02, 2010 8:01 pm

SPN-87 wrote:

warp2diesel wrote:

What I don't like about the stock filter is the ~3 micron to ~10 micron rating, 2 micron is much better.

Are you sure ? I thought stock filter element is 10 micron as a best rating. Am i wrong ?

Some of the stock aftermarket filter elements like Wix are rated at 10 micron. The KJ FSM which may be wrong as it has been more than a few times says the Mopar element is rated at 3 microns. That is why I used the ~ symbol. Cat, Navistar and Duramax diesels that have ~175,000 Miles are having injector wear problems caused by particles larger than 2 microns, that is why I went to the 2 micron filter element.
If I lived where it got -35F I would go to the Racor head with their heater that I believe has a thermostat switch that shuts off at 85F. For my part of Illinois, the heater is useless until it gets colder than -15F, then I can plug in the relay. Last winter I did not cover my fuel cooler and had no issues such as loss of power that happens when the filter starts to gel up.
I made the adapter kit to show it can be done and have no plans of selling any kits. I don't want the liability and with my work and my wife, I don't have enough time to make any kits. If the stock head shows any signs of going bad, I will replace it with a Racor head.

UFO · **Posted:** Tue Aug 03, 2010 11:25 am

Yes, I too would like a better filter element. I intend to get the Racor 2 micron as well, but the primer on my factory filter head is popped, so I will soon be installing the Racor head too.

TDIwyse · **Joined:** Fri Aug 14, 2009 7:44 am **Posts:** 91

Nice fab work warp.

Another option for 2um elements is the Stanadyne Fuel Manager. I have this setup on my 2 Cummins engines and have a bunch of filters so I used that to replace the stock head/filter. The pics show a 5um element (it came with the new head) but I've got larger sized 2um elements now. Also the stock bolt locations fit the head.

The clear see thru bowl on the bottom I drilled and taped to fit the stock H2O sensor connector, wired in the stock heater supply to the FM100 head, and used a 3rd party temp probe (IOmega) for the stock fuel temp connection. Also added a simple in-line fuel pressure gauge so I can check my lift pump pressure. Pretty simple setup.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10201173@N ... otostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10201173@N ... otostream/

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Tue Aug 03, 2010 3:23 pm

tonycrd wrote:

Seems a bit pointless to me, the problems with these is the OEM head. Not the filter.

I agree. Anybody here know of a CRD in a Jeep, Dodge, or any other vehicle that has died because the owner used the factory fuel filters? I don't.

This is a lot of work that could have been spent on a lift kit. :mrgreen:

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Aug 03, 2010 5:13 pm

Or money spent on a lift pump.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Aug 03, 2010 7:36 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

tonycrd wrote:

Seems a bit pointless to me, the problems with these is the OEM head. Not the filter.

I agree. Anybody here know of a CRD in a Jeep, Dodge, or any other vehicle that has died because the owner used the factory fuel filters? I don't.

This is a lot of work that could have been spent on a lift kit. :mrgreen:

Duramax engines with 175,000 Miles have had trashed injectors by using a stock fuel filter larger than 2 micron. Both our CRDs and the Duramax are common rail engines. Using a 2 micron filter is CHEAP INSURANCE.

Lift kits more than Boilers 3/8" shims, NO THANKS1!!

Thanks to Guinness for the inspiration, more inspiring than Kool Aid.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Aug 03, 2010 7:41 pm

racertracer wrote:

Or money spent on a lift pump.

I have a lift pump.
I recommend a Lift Pump.
I rip Chrysler and accuse them of doing BEAN COUNTER ENGINEERING for not using a lift pump in the OEM design.
What part about Lift Pump in my writings don't you understand :?:

I have no plans to make the kits or sell them, but I will consider licensing the design to a Michigan company.
Then I predict, you would buy it from them and brag about it.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Aug 03, 2010 10:39 pm

TDIwyse wrote:

Nice fab work warp.

Another option for 2um elements is the Stanadyne Fuel Manager. I have this setup on my 2 Cummins engines and have a bunch of filters so I used that to replace the stock head/filter. The pics show a 5um element (it came with the new head) but I've got larger sized 2um elements now. Also the stock bolt locations fit the head.

The clear see thru bowl on the bottom I drilled and taped to fit the stock H2O sensor connector, wired in the stock heater supply to the FM100 head, and used a 3rd party temp probe (IOmega) for the stock fuel temp connection. Also added a simple in-line fuel pressure gauge so I can check my lift pump pressure. Pretty simple setup.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10201173@N ... otostream/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10201173@N ... otostream/

Another solution to the 10 micron filter problem and parts commonality between your rigs. :BANANA:

Squeeto · **Posted:** Wed Aug 04, 2010 10:39 am

Nice work. Makes me want more shop equipment when I see things like this (lathe, milling machine, drill press).

With the 2 micron filter, how often will you change it? The oem fuel filter needs to be replaced every 40,000 km.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Aug 04, 2010 5:31 pm

Squeeto wrote:

Nice work. Makes me want more shop equipment when I see things like this (lathe, milling machine, drill press).

With the 2 micron filter, how often will you change it? The oem fuel filter needs to be replaced every 40,000 km.

Some say every 10,000M/16,000KN I may switch to a larger filter element if it will fit to get a longer service life.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Wed Aug 04, 2010 6:38 pm

40k seems to be too long to go without a fuel filter change anyway.

How to put a 2 micron Racor filter on a Mopar head

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