OK, my CRD has lost power, the 299 code says low turbo boost. I searched the forum and found in may be the vacuum modulator, that I can check by connecting some vacuum lines. I looked at the shop manual and found a vacuum reservoir in the passenger dash, is this the one? I found no mention of a modulator, where is it and what vacuum lines do I connect to test for a bad one?

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O6 Limited CRD 4X4, Frankenlifted II, Magnaflow, EHM, ORM, 245/16 BFG, AllJ's Rear Rack, Lightforce Aux Lights, Tjm front bumper, Tmax winch, Scorpion diesel tuner and Baja Tested.

A split CAC hose and/or EGR valve can also trip this code. The hose is the easiest to check first but I do acknowledge that in the spirit of this forum the hardest thing is in vouge.

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2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.

The P0299 code also can be set at the beginning stages of an EGR valve failure. If the valve has trouble flowing, the ECU commands the FCV (intake throttle) to close more causing a higher differential pressure allowing more EGR gas to flow. When the FCV closes too much it can flag a low boost code since it is cutting off the fresh air flow a bit.

If you do a full throttle acceleration, is the performance good? Do this after clearing the fault or just after starting the vehicle.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
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I bought a CRD with a 299 code. Seems like the dealer tried to fix it with new CAC hoses. They did several things that didn't fix it. They did not clean the boost pressure sensor. Not entirely sure they knew to do that.

Pics of hose cracks seem to show them always on the underside. . . so you've got to pull the hose to find them. I'm with JL, checking those would be the first option.

Mine was the EGR. I got a GDE Eco tune and the light and problems went away.

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'05 Sport CRD 107k miles. NOBODY knows everything.

I tried searching for the EGR valve, but could not find it either, where is that and what does it look like. I did look at the hoses but didn't pull them guess that is next. I makes a loud whooshing sound under full throttle acceleration, would that indicate a hose? Thanks for the responses, my CRD has 92,000 miles and this is the first problem.

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O6 Limited CRD 4X4, Frankenlifted II, Magnaflow, EHM, ORM, 245/16 BFG, AllJ's Rear Rack, Lightforce Aux Lights, Tjm front bumper, Tmax winch, Scorpion diesel tuner and Baja Tested.

Yes, that sound would indicate a split intercooler hose, not an EGR valve. Replace the hose first - much cheaper and easier.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Thanks, I'll pull the hoses tomorrow. The top looks ok but who knows whats under, any better after market turbo hoses available?

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O6 Limited CRD 4X4, Frankenlifted II, Magnaflow, EHM, ORM, 245/16 BFG, AllJ's Rear Rack, Lightforce Aux Lights, Tjm front bumper, Tmax winch, Scorpion diesel tuner and Baja Tested.

Yes, both are now made by Samco sport, due to the efforts of people in this forum we got them to make a silicone kit. I got mine from boostcontroller.com.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.