So, I drove to Colorado to bow hunt Elk. On the second morning of the hunt my shoulder gets dislocated while drawing the bow on an Elk. So a trip to the ER to get it put back in place and on the way back to camp the Alt craps out. Rancher let me charge up at his place so I can get to town. After doing some checks myself, I'm pretty sure the alt is shot. Problem is there is going to be no way to get it in myself with the arm slinged up so time for dreaded dealer visit.

So its gonna be $495 dollars for an ALT at a dealer, but its the only place around i can get one...ANYWHERE except waiting to get one online. So has anyone had problems with their alts? Also, would the decoupler pulley thing I read about cause this? Everything looks to be spinning still internally on the Alt. I just noticed the Chirping recentlyso maybe I'm killing 2 birds with one stone? Anyway stuck in a hotel waiting for a part to come in tomm morning then beginning the 1300mile drive home.

Sorry needed to Rant.

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2006 CRD, 111K, EHM, GDE Eco Tune, BF-Goodrich AT/KO, new alternator.....

I believe that the alternator decoupler becomes noisy as time goes by and requires replacement.

I never heard of the decoupler impeding the alternator from charging the battery.

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2006 Liberty Limited CRD, Deep Beryl Green, Yeti tune, Arp studs, new cams, rockers, lifters, TB. "Green Monster"
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Deep Beryl Green, GDE Hot Tune, ARP studs. "Rocket"
1982 Fiat 124 Spider Convertible. "Fiona"

You may not have gotten your Elk, sorry about that, but with the chirps, it sounds like your decoupler pulley is bad too. Since the decoupler is a sprag clutch, if it slips in one direction and drives the rotor in the other it is most likely OK. If you can get in to the internal alternator fins with a plastic probe like a pen and bump the fins in one direction but not the other. Chances are the decoupler is OK. If you can not turn the fins only in one direction the decoupler is junk.

In "Theory", if there were enough flywheel and harmonic balancer mass, the decoupler would not be needed. A SunCoast converter has more flywheel mass, but it is unknown if there is enough harmonic balancer mass to work with the SunCoast to make the decoupler unneeded.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

When my decoupler/pulley broke a couple of years ago the alternator would not put out any charge at all. So I replaced the decoupler Part # 53013554 AE $53.00 at the local jeep dealer august 08. Oh and the plastic cap was part # 53013559-AA $1.90 hope that helps. Sounds like you need another arm to help. No problem since the new part was put on. The alternator shaft is left hand threads.

Warp, that's pretty much exactly what I was getting from reading about this "intresting" (insert your choice word) Charging system. Oh yeah and no elk, I was at about 3/4 draw when my arm holding the bow Popped back towards me 2-3 inches... Not pleasant.

Kccrd, could your issue been not been charging because it wasn't spinning the internals? Maybe I'll go take another peek at it tonight.

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2006 CRD, 111K, EHM, GDE Eco Tune, BF-Goodrich AT/KO, new alternator.....

Where are you in colorado? There are plenty of us CRD folks in the state and there might be one nearby willing to help swap an alternator.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
RL super sliders, Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

All I remember was when I took the alternator into a alternator shop the guy grabbed it buy the pulley and said that is the problem. He removed it put it on the charge bench and it checked out fine around 14.4 amps he said he very rarely saw any nipendenso alternators come through his shop he told me they were very reliable. So far I have 138k and no more problems with any electrical items on the Jeep. Knock on wood.

Cat, thanks, I know the people on this forum are great, but I'm in Craig, CO and I don't remember anyone seeing anyone on here from Craig area, could be wrong though. The dealer told me like $90, which is a rip but a decent for a dealer, i figured why not Just let them do it so I can get on my way.

Kccrd, yeah I'll see if I can get the old alt, or they may need it for a core, but I know a Guy in Iowa where I grew up that he rebuilds electric motors and alts. I went to the parking lot just a bit ago and I fired it up and the alt is spinning internally, at least from what I can see in the cooling slots. Well Hopefully I'll know more tomm, New alt to arrive at 10:00 AM.

Thanks guys, this is why I like this forum!

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2006 CRD, 111K, EHM, GDE Eco Tune, BF-Goodrich AT/KO, new alternator.....

Bummer you weren't closer, I'd lent you my alternator to get you home. On my last long road trip 1200 miles each way, I got stranded by an alternator on my 92 Nissan Stanza about 300 miles from home. I was fortunate that a truck driver gave my wife and I a ride back home and I picked up a spare alternator and battery and drove my other car out to do the recovery.

I was upset to find out that my alternator failed because of a stuck brush. Once I replaced the brushes, it was good as new and I sold it.

So whats the deal with this pully anyway? I have heard stories of it going out/having trouble with it. I will have to look at mine and see if I can figure out what the possible issue is there.

You are about 5 hours from me in Colorado Springs. I wish I was closer or I had tomorrow off. Might be able to make it up there on the weekend if your still there. Let me know if you run into trouble geting it changed out and need help/tools.

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Mark.
It's got a one way clutch inside of it. It's to smooth out the diesel pulsing at idel and when shuting down. Without one the belt will flap at idel and put stress on the tensioner. Some TDI guys are putting them on too.
Years ago I worked for Royal Typewriter and they used one way clutches on their electrics. As the lubrication dried up they would rust and fail. As I understand there are two types (brands?) used on the CRD's. One has a plastic shield as mentioned and the other doesn't. They can fail one of two ways. They can lock up causing the belt to chirp at idel or free wheel in BOTH directions. When they free wheel I would amagine the rotor would appear to be moving but maybe not fast enough.

Joe

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Thank for the info,

Interesting, sounds like a necessary part, but a potential maintenance issue. I'd try to find a lifetime warranty one from a nationwide parts store like napa, advanced, Autozone, etc if mine ever went out. That way if the clutch was ever an issue again, I wouldn't pay out of pocket or have to do a clutch pully replacement w/o the proper tools while on the road.

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

Well Made it Home to Ohio Late last night after the new alt was put in there were no more problems.

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2006 CRD, 111K, EHM, GDE Eco Tune, BF-Goodrich AT/KO, new alternator.....

Thats what I did, a couple of years ago my alt stopped charging. Went and got a rebuilt autozone unit, rebuilt unit has a failing idler pulley, for about a year now.

I have a timing belt service coming up, at that time I'll replace the alternator(and maybe get your modified thermostat).

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