I have had to pull out into traffic several times on a busy highway to get onto the main road and noticed my Libby is slow to respond at first then kicks into high gear..seems the turbo takes a second to catch then picks up fast speed. I have clean her with sea foam and done several of the mods. I do have a check engine light to do low boost pressure and bad egr valve but have removed the sensor on the air box to turn off the EGR..any ideas is this normal..I would thing it would respond a lot quicker to full pedal to the ground than an almost 2 second delay before turbo spool up??

Your egr pipe could be loose at the exhaust manifold end - this will allow low rpm exhaust pressure bleed (thus minimise boost) but gets overcome when the engine picks up abit). Pull your heat shield up and you should be able to eyeball the connector clamp.

I had a factory defect in my intercooler...a wonderful boost leak. Its a possibility you could check into.

If you're getting a low boost code theres a great chance you have a leak somewhere in the system...intercooler, hoses, etc.

You can plug or cap the system and pressurize it to check for leaks. You may have to invent some of your own fittings to do this or take it to the dealership. I used PVC end caps, drilled a hole in one, installed a tire valve stem, and pressurized the system. I pressure tested my intercooler to 30psi. Probably more than necessary since we only hit around 20-22 I believe. I would recommend pressure testing it to 20psi at least. If you have a leak you'll know right away because you will not build pressure at all with that setup and a air pump since it pumps so slow.

I posted a few pics awhile back when I replaced my intercooler. On this thread:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50589

Good luck!

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

That's how mine reacted before I put a lift pump on it.

Try bleeding your filter head and see how much air you get out. Us with lift pumps don't get any. Those without will get some air. Those with a air leak somewhere in the fuel system will get lots And a crd won't run too well on air The fuel lines from the tank are from the gas KJ's and they have a pressurized system and have no problems. We have a vacuum system and using the same cheap plastic with o ring connectors back by the tank and they tend to leak air

For me it was expecially bad in warm/hot weather. On a hot day in Kentucky I stopped at a station and filled up. It was on a busy 4 lane road and I needed to turn left. I saw a break in the traffic and pushed the pedal down. Those two seconds were the longest in my life It always had what was assumed to be turbo lag. With a lift pump I have no such problems. I bought this CRD new over 4 years ago and have been a member here since.

Early on this problem was overshadowed only by the early torque converters. And long before fuel filter heads started melting probably because there was air instead of fuel in there. I still have my original filter head. Jeep must have known about it because the control logic is in the ECM, the relay and fuse are in the fuse panel under the hood and most of the wire is allready there

You can try one by using Black Liberty's method first. It will cost $50 or less and be done in less then an hour. Them you'll want to put the dodge/Cummins pump in the tank when you feel the results.

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

I have the same issue but I just had the dealer do the TB, Therostat, serp belt, WP, IP, filter head and tranny service while I was in Germany. Now I have turbo lag and puffs of black smoke when I try to accelerate for a stop. Dealer asked if I could bring it back and I will this week. The real witch is that it stalled in traffic this morning while in an intersection. I hate taking anything to the dealer but I was out of options on this one.

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No longer a CRD or Jeep owner. Selling everything I have, needs to go as I need the room for a project.