thread on Old Man Emu for CRD...help

Topan · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 12:45 pm

Hi there,
i am about to order an old Man Emu suspension lift kit for my 2005 CRD.
I guess there are plenty of threads on that....could not find any... :-)r

Any recommendation on the best stiffness? Easiness to mount? site to buy from ? :banghead:

My CRD has no bullbar, no wrench, just stock (almost CRD), so i am aiming at medium stiffness.
I just want to benefit from the better handling and the 4cm (...aprox. 2inch) lift.
Thanks in advance

chrismc · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:00 pm

Are you looking at the CRD Frankenlift II Premium kit from All J Products? That's definitely the past way to pick up all the correct OME parts (I think one is only available through them) and the other little extras you'll need.

I have this kit on my CRD, with no bull bar or winch, and it rides beautifully. Actually, it rides WAY better than stock even with the lift and taller tires.

Topan · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:10 pm

yes, must be that kit !! great! :JEEPIN:

gonna see if they ship overseas...

Topan · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:21 pm

chrismc wrote:

Are you looking at the CRD Frankenlift II Premium kit from All J Products? That's definitely the past way to pick up all the correct OME parts (I think one is only available through them) and the other little extras you'll need.

I have this kit on my CRD, with no bull bar or winch, and it rides beautifully. Actually, it rides WAY better than stock even with the lift and taller tires.

forgot to ask: what stiffness do you have ?

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:38 pm

The 790 front springs and 948 rear springs are what's recommended by others here. Personally, I'm afraid that the 790s might be too stiff. But when money allows, I'm going to give them a try.

Topan · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:45 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

The 790 front springs and 948 rear springs are what's recommended by others here. Personally, I'm afraid that the 790s might be too stiff. But when money allows, I'm going to give them a try.

good to know, as i use the KJ daily and drive a lot, I will definitely not go for a stiff spring... :dizzy:

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:49 pm

From what I've been told by a member here:

OME 927 = 400 lb. springs
Stock CRD = 410 lb. springs
OME 790 = 500 lb. springs

So if that's true, the 927s are softer than factory and might sag over time.... but on the other side of the coin the 790s are WAY stiffer than stock and might ride too rough.

I don't have experience with either so I cannot say for sure... I'm just speculating. But yeah... everybody says go with the 790s for the front.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 2:58 pm

You will want the 790 front coils,they will not be stiff,they will be more firm giving better control while driving without being bone jarring.With better tires added in you will be thinking why did it not come from the factory this way.

Topan · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:17 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

You will want the 790 front coils,they will not be stiff,they will be more firm giving better control while driving without being bone jarring.With better tires added in you will be thinking why did it not come from the factory this way.

Makes me want to place the order!
and you agree with the figures above?
OME 927 = 400 lb. springs
Stock CRD = 410 lb. springs
OME 790 = 500 lb. springs

actually it would mean the 790 are 25% stiffer than stock....not taht much stiffer, sounds good to me !

Topan · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:33 pm

...and how about the rear ?....

chrismc · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:38 pm

Topan wrote:

forgot to ask: what stiffness do you have ?

There's an easy joke in here somewhere... :twisted:

The CRD Frankenlift II that I linked to only has one level of stiffness, they don't use different spring rates for the CRD's. The CRD engine adds quite a bit of weight, so I think that was taken into consideration when they chose the springs for that application.

Shipping to Switzerland might be a bit pricey, as the box isn't all that light. You can get a $125USD credit back from them for returning some of the parts that you take out, but I'm not sure that it would be worth the shipping cost to return them. Send them an email or give them a call if you can, they're very friendly and helpful and will definitely be able to answer your questions.

Topan · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 4:52 pm

Great info.thanks .
I wil call them tomorrow to see if they can ship to CH.
...i'll keep you posted!!!

now i got to see if it is easy to mount...

chrismc · **Posted:** Thu Sep 30, 2010 7:28 pm

Topan wrote:

now i got to see if it is easy to mount...

Its not too bad at all if you've done wrenching on your vehicle before. If I remember right, you don't need any special tools aside from normal mechanics tools (ratchets, wrenches, etc...), and the instructions were pretty good. I think you might need a drill for either the bumpstops or the brake relocation bracket. Its been over three years since I did it, so its a little fuzzy. You'll definitely want a set of jack stands to set the vehicle on while you're doing the work. It takes a bit of time just because there's a fair amount of work to do at all 4 corners, but I did the whole thing by myself in 8 hours or so with stops for food and beers in there. Make sure you plan to take it to an alignment shop after doing the install.

Topan · **Posted:** Fri Oct 01, 2010 4:27 am

chrismc wrote:

Topan wrote:

now i got to see if it is easy to mount...

Its not too bad at all if you've done wrenching on your vehicle before. If I remember right, you don't need any special tools aside from normal mechanics tools (ratchets, wrenches, etc...), and the instructions were pretty good. I think you might need a drill for either the bumpstops or the brake relocation bracket. Its been over three years since I did it, so its a little fuzzy. You'll definitely want a set of jack stands to set the vehicle on while you're doing the work. It takes a bit of time just because there's a fair amount of work to do at all 4 corners, but I did the whole thing by myself in 8 hours or so with stops for food and beers in there. Make sure you plan to take it to an alignment shop after doing the install.

Really appreciate the advice. i already got a new set of jack stands, the tools i got. and i will ask a buddy to help me.
Do you need to remove totally the swing arms for the front ?
i would imaginte the drilling is for relocating the brake.

Have you noticed that it really lifted up the KJ by a few inches ?

kapalczynski · **Posted:** Fri Oct 01, 2010 5:28 am

chrismc wrote:

Are you looking at the CRD Frankenlift II Premium kit from All J Products? That's definitely the past way to pick up all the correct OME parts (I think one is only available through them) and the other little extras you'll need.

I have this kit on my CRD, with no bull bar or winch, and it rides beautifully. Actually, it rides WAY better than stock even with the lift and taller tires.

Agreed, Rides better than stock, less front end bounce. I think this is due to the fact the CRD's use the same factory shock as the regular liberties but came with a heavier spring. Made them bounce from the factory...the new heavy duty shocks are better.

I purchased mine from All J too. Not sure about the spring rate, but went with the "CRD" front springs. Great customer service, no issues.

I also ended up ordering the 1/2" spacers for the rear from All J and a strut spacer for the front from this site to get the right factory raked look: http://www.rocky-road.com/kjsus.html

Front Strut Trim Packer.
This little piece can be added to the
front strut for an extra 9/16" boost
to help level your Jeep.

The result was a perfect ride height for me and no issues wth CV's. Lift has been installed over a year now and I have put over 15k miles on it since.

Prior to the strut spacers and rear 1/2" poly spacers, the front seemed too high compared to the rear. I added the rear spacers, rear was too high, I added the front strut spacers and left the rear spacers in and it evened out perfect to where the bottom edge of the jeep sits probably 1/4" less (just guessing here) on front edge than the rear edge of the running board.

Took alot of trial and error figuring out the right setup, but it works great for me. Here are some pictures to look forward to:

(The last 3 pictures were with 225/75-16 factory size tires for reference)

Good luck!

- Mark

Topan · **Posted:** Mon Oct 04, 2010 7:22 am

kapalczynski wrote:

chrismc wrote:

Are you looking at the CRD Frankenlift II Premium kit from All J Products? That's definitely the past way to pick up all the correct OME parts (I think one is only available through them) and the other little extras you'll need.

I have this kit on my CRD, with no bull bar or winch, and it rides beautifully. Actually, it rides WAY better than stock even with the lift and taller tires.

Agreed, Rides better than stock, less front end bounce. I think this is due to the fact the CRD's use the same factory shock as the regular liberties but came with a heavier spring. Made them bounce from the factory...the new heavy duty shocks are better.

I purchased mine from All J too. Not sure about the spring rate, but went with the "CRD" front springs. Great customer service, no issues.

I also ended up ordering the 1/2" spacers for the rear from All J and a strut spacer for the front from this site to get the right factory raked look: http://www.rocky-road.com/kjsus.html

Front Strut Trim Packer.
This little piece can be added to the
front strut for an extra 9/16" boost
to help level your Jeep.

The result was a perfect ride height for me and no issues wth CV's. Lift has been installed over a year now and I have put over 15k miles on it since.

Prior to the strut spacers and rear 1/2" poly spacers, the front seemed too high compared to the rear. I added the rear spacers, rear was too high, I added the front strut spacers and left the rear spacers in and it evened out perfect to where the bottom edge of the jeep sits probably 1/4" less (just guessing here) on front edge than the rear edge of the running board.

Took alot of trial and error figuring out the right setup, but it works great for me. Here are some pictures to look forward to:

(The last 3 pictures were with 225/75-16 factory size tires for reference)

Good luck!

- Mark

sorry for being slow... :juggle:

So the final set-up as you show on the pics is:
Front: Strut spacers
Rear: 1/2 Poly spacers
correct ?

grywlfbg · **Posted:** Tue Oct 05, 2010 6:33 pm

I'm running 790 springs w/ NS131 struts up front and 948 springs w/ N132L shocks in back. Rides like a dream. I'm running slightly larger tires (can't recall off the top of my head and wife has the Jeep at work) but they fit when the suspension was stock.

Anyway, Jeep is MUCH more composed now and although the ride is firmer it is not jarring in any way. I bought mine here:
http://jeepinbyal.com/prod-OME_1_50__lift_kit-634.aspx

Total lift was actually ~2 inches. I can take pics if you want.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Tue Oct 05, 2010 8:24 pm

I was thinking something today. For 5 years folks on this forum have proclaimed, "Spacer lifts are trash. Do it right the first time and get the Frankenlift!" But what is the Frankenlift? It's a spacer lift! :-)r

Now, I will admit that I barely passed Calculus and Analytic Geometry in college... but even I can see that dropping $1,000 dollars for the FRONT suspension alone... and still coming away with a spacer lift of some form or fashion is not the most intelligent thing in the world to do.

You see, one of the reasons the ride gets stiffer and of lower quality when we lift is because the geometry changes in the front end. Instead of the A-arms being parallel to the ground, they are now at an angle. So when the tire needs to rebound, some force is applied laterally into the chassis, rather than most all of it being applied vertically to the A-arm. So...by keeping that height exactly the same as what I've got with my Daystar/conduit washer lift.. I'm not helping myself at all.

The other factor obviously is the stiffness of the coils and struts/shocks. Well, the Frankenlift uses stiffer coils and stiffer struts/shocks too. So.. you are keeping the same angles on the A-arms, you are still keeping a spacer (which can't help absorb shock like the coil can), and you are simply replacing your factory CRD springs with even stiffer springs, and your factory CRD struts with even stiffer struts. And you're paying a GRAND for this...and we haven't even gotten to the rear end of the Jeep yet.

So to each their own... but NO THANKS. I will keep my current spacer lift which I have a total of about $75 invested in. When money allows.. what I will do is buy the OME coils, some struts of my choosing, and use that alone with the factory isolators and top plates. This will drop my front end just slightly... but my tires will still fit just fine, meaning I lose ZERO ground clearance, and this is the only way I will truly achieve a better riding Jeep. Did I mention that doing it that way will also save me $600 on the front end alone?

Just my :2cents:

The ONLY way the Frankenlift is worth it is if you have no possible way whatsoever of doing the assembly of struts yourself or having a friend do it for you. If you are totally out of options and you NEED it pre-assembled.. then that might change the ball game a bit because you would then otherwise pay a shop for labor.

To borrow a line from the infamous JL.. "Just sayin'..."

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 05, 2010 11:05 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

I was thinking something today. For 5 years folks on this forum have proclaimed, "Spacer lifts are trash. Do it right the first time and get the Frankenlift!" But what is the Frankenlift? It's a spacer lift! :-)r

Now, I will admit that I barely passed Calculus and Analytic Geometry in college... but even I can see that dropping $1,000 dollars for the FRONT suspension alone... and still coming away with a spacer lift of some form or fashion is not the most intelligent thing in the world to do.

You see, one of the reasons the ride gets stiffer and of lower quality when we lift is because the geometry changes in the front end. Instead of the A-arms being parallel to the ground, they are now at an angle. So when the tire needs to rebound, some force is applied laterally into the chassis, rather than most all of it being applied vertically to the A-arm. So...by keeping that height exactly the same as what I've got with my Daystar/conduit washer lift.. I'm not helping myself at all.

The other factor obviously is the stiffness of the coils and struts/shocks. Well, the Frankenlift uses stiffer coils and stiffer struts/shocks too. So.. you are keeping the same angles on the A-arms, you are still keeping a spacer (which can't help absorb shock like the coil can), and you are simply replacing your factory CRD springs with even stiffer springs, and your factory CRD struts with even stiffer struts. And you're paying a GRAND for this...and we haven't even gotten to the rear end of the Jeep yet.

So to each their own... but NO THANKS. I will keep my current spacer lift which I have a total of about $75 invested in. When money allows.. what I will do is buy the OME coils, some struts of my choosing, and use that alone with the factory isolators and top plates. This will drop my front end just slightly... but my tires will still fit just fine, meaning I lose ZERO ground clearance, and this is the only way I will truly achieve a better riding Jeep. Did I mention that doing it that way will also save me $600 on the front end alone?

Just my :2cents:

The ONLY way the Frankenlift is worth it is if you have no possible way whatsoever of doing the assembly of struts yourself or having a friend do it for you. If you are totally out of options and you NEED it pre-assembled.. then that might change the ball game a bit because you would then otherwise pay a shop for labor.

To borrow a line from the infamous JL.. "Just sayin'..."

The CRD Frankinlift has no poly spacer like the gas Frankinlift as it would be to much lift for the CRD's front CV's.There is a core charge for the OEM upper plates and isolators used which you will get back when/if you send your upper plates and isolators back to AllJ's.Your also paying a little extra since the front coilover is already assembled making install a breeze and not having to mess with compressing those heavy rate coils.

chrismc · **Posted:** Wed Oct 06, 2010 9:29 am

LibertyCRD wrote:

I was thinking something today. For 5 years folks on this forum have proclaimed, "Spacer lifts are trash. Do it right the first time and get the Frankenlift!" But what is the Frankenlift? It's a spacer lift! :-)r

The CRD Frankenlift has no spacers. It is composed of new springs and shocks/struts on all four corners, and is entirely complete and ready for installation out of the box. I believe you can add spacers to the CRD Frankenlift if you want a little more boost (and All J will install them for you), but it makes installation more difficult and is not recommended due to added CV joint stress.

All J is a 4wd shop that provides excellent service and does due diligence to find the best solution for a specific problem (lifting KJ's, in this case), not a parts house reseller that drop ships someone else's product. They have overhead costs and are not running a charity. You get what you pay for.

thread on Old Man Emu for CRD...help

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