U-joints dying?

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:17 pm

Well, as you know I got my new Euro TC installed and all seemed well. This week my Jeep developed a new issue. :banghead:

It started as a "clicking" or "snapping" noise coming from under the Jeep...mostly audible at slow speed (15-35 MPH). Today...on the way home to Kentucky it became a strong vibration. The vibration is mostly felt between 25-45 MPH and it is very similar to the TC shudder...except it persists throughout that entire speed range, especially under acceleration.

I'm going to crawl under the Jeep in the morning to inspect the U-joints....I think they are the culprit but obviously I am not sure yet. Anybody here that has changed the U-joints help me out? What were your symptoms? Which U-joint in the rear shaft was bad on yours? Was it a pain to swap out? Thanks.

:furious:

This Jeep is definitely living up to the Just Empty Every Pocket nickname.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:22 pm

Haven't done my Jeep yet, but I have replaced a bunch over the years. Undo the clamps and if the joint is bad, you will know right away, unlike our elected officials, they are not good lairs.
Buy the good ones with grease fittings and a hardened cross, not the junk that only is designed to get through the warranty.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:39 pm

My indicator was there was a terrible squeaking when in reverse only and not when I rolled back in neutral. Then the shop broke both front and rear yokes replacing them...... so that pretty much suct.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:43 pm

If I change mine, I'm definitely getting greasable ones. I'd rather pay twice as much for good U-joints since even the good ones are around $20. Much better than this junk. I was afraid that we weren't going to make it home by the end of the trip. The vibration and roaring was that bad. Now I just gotta' pray that the U-joint(s) is indeed the problem and not the new TC or the rear differential. :shock:

RabidRdKill · **Posted:** Sun Apr 11, 2010 9:28 am

Just replaced the one at the rear axle last weekend. I was getting a vibration around 20 and again around 50 mph. Come to find out it's been bad for a while - there was a whirring I wrote off a long time ago as road noise that's gone now too. Definately get a greasable one and it was an easy change. The hardest part was getting the mounting flange holes lined up to reinstall - and that wasn't really that hard either.

I bought both for the rear drive shaft but just couldn't condem the one at the t-case - it was fine so I just replaced the rear.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Sun Apr 11, 2010 9:39 am

shaft..... lol

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Apr 11, 2010 10:59 am

LibertyCRD wrote:

If I change mine, I'm definitely getting greasable ones. I'd rather pay twice as much for good U-joints since even the good ones are around $20. Much better than this junk. I was afraid that we weren't going to make it home by the end of the trip. The vibration and roaring was that bad. Now I just gotta' pray that the U-joint(s) is indeed the problem and not the new TC or the rear differential. :shock:

I have the SAME vibe at 20 and 50. Been noticing some squeaking when backing out of the driveway too. Looks like joints are on my list.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sun Apr 11, 2010 9:17 pm

Welp, I dropped my shaft and checked. It was the rear position U-joint that was bad. Sounded awful just working it around by hand. I went ahead and replaced both U-joints while I had the shaft out. Used Precision U-joints from O'reilly Auto Parts. Made in the USA, cheaper than OEM, and they have grease zerks!!

Cured my problem. Was NOT an easy job though. We ended up cutting the OEM joints out with a torch to prevent damage to the yokes on the shaft. What a PITA job for something so simple...

Now...GDE tune, new TC, new U-joints...where is the weak link going to move to now? :SOMBRERO:

Joe Dirt · **Posted:** Sun Apr 11, 2010 10:38 pm

My rear u-joint went out at 45,000 miles. I wish now that I would have replaced them both but I just replaced the rear one.

RabidRdKill · **Posted:** Sun Apr 11, 2010 11:10 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

Was NOT an easy job though. We ended up cutting the OEM joints out with a torch to prevent damage to the yokes on the shaft. What a PITA job for something so simple...

Wow. Mine came out pretty easily - pressed it out in the big bench vise. Usually up here in Michigan with all the road salt anything that can seize together does. Glad the blue wrench worked for you though.

europachris · **Posted:** Mon Apr 12, 2010 8:29 am

Joe Dirt wrote:

My rear u-joint went out at 45,000 miles. I wish now that I would have replaced them both but I just replaced the rear one.

Ditto - I think ours went to maybe 55k at most. Surprised it lasted that long the way my wife always drives it. :SOMBRERO:

I'm convinced she wants to be the next Shirley Muldowney....

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Apr 12, 2010 12:39 pm

RabidRdKill wrote:

LibertyCRD wrote:

Was NOT an easy job though. We ended up cutting the OEM joints out with a torch to prevent damage to the yokes on the shaft. What a PITA job for something so simple...

Wow. Mine came out pretty easily - pressed it out in the big bench vise. Usually up here in Michigan with all the road salt anything that can seize together does. Glad the blue wrench worked for you though.

Yeah they were a real bear to get out. The rear one was the hardest. It was TIGHT. Couldn't beat or press it out. Was afraid of tearing something up.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Mon Apr 12, 2010 12:53 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

I dropped my shaft

LOL....

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Apr 12, 2010 6:15 pm

I replaced both of my u-joints yesterday too. One end of one axis on the rear joint was totally dry and seized with rust. Got some greasable ones in there and all is well. I rented the ball joint press from auto zone and pressed them out/in. Only problem I had was that the new joints were just a little too wide end-to-end to get the snap rings in without very carefully centering the caps. I greased the slip yoke splines while I was in there and the Jeep is like new.

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sun Oct 24, 2010 8:32 pm

OK so the vibration is BACK. Ran smooth all Summer, now it is vibrating like mad at pretty much any highway speed. Surely the new U-joints aren't shot already. :banghead:

This is getting really old now. Every month it's something new, and I'm still looking at $600 for a 100K service this Winter. Ugh..

What else could a vibration like this be? TC wouldn't do this would it? CV shafts? I figure it has to be the tires or the U-joints. But the tires have been rebalanced twice already and it's still vibrating.

ridenby · **Posted:** Sun Oct 24, 2010 8:38 pm

Not trying to start anything,but,did you grease the U-joints regularly?

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sun Oct 24, 2010 9:58 pm

ridenby wrote:

Not trying to start anything,but,did you grease the U-joints regularly?

Yup, and just pumped 'em full of grease again 3 days ago. Didn't help at all. :cry:

boilermaker2 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 24, 2010 10:27 pm

Mine squeaked in reverse and vibrated in certain speed bands. However, the only time my jeep vibrated all over itself (and I thought it was going to come apart) was when I had ice/snow packed in the wheel. Very disconcerting after battling some deep (to me) snow and finally reaching a plowed road to find out I was no better off.... :ROTFL:

Since I know it hasn't snowed in KY, have you had it out in the mud? :seuss:

Good luck, I KNOW, how frustrating (and expensive) this can be. :banghead:

I'm just trying to point out cheaper alternatives when I can...

:5SHOTS:

B2

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 24, 2010 11:00 pm

LibertyCRD wrote:

OK so the vibration is BACK. Ran smooth all Summer, now it is vibrating like mad at pretty much any highway speed. Surely the new U-joints aren't shot already. :banghead:

This is getting really old now. Every month it's something new, and I'm still looking at $600 for a 100K service this Winter. Ugh..

What else could a vibration like this be? TC wouldn't do this would it? CV shafts? I figure it has to be the tires or the U-joints. But the tires have been rebalanced twice already and it's still vibrating.

Have you checked the front driveshaft? The t-case side CV likes to go bad,torn boot.

Oh and I have seen precision u-joints not lasting.Just because they are greaseable does not mean anything.Sealed u-joints like those from Dana/Spicer are far the strongest.Greaseable u-joints are weaker since they have holes drilled through out for grease.It is a trade off,long lasting(greaseable,if you buy Dana/Spicer) or strong(sealed).

LibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Oct 25, 2010 7:58 am

Well yes, I had been in the mud.

But as soon as I got home from that trip I took all 4 wheels off and pressure washed them clean as new. The tire shop this past weekend also sanded down the inside of all my wheels just to be sure. Then they rebalanced again on a brand new Hunter machine. Vibration is still there.

So... I suppose my next step is to drop the rear driveshaft and inspect my new U-joints back there. If that appears good, I'll drop the front driveshaft. How does the front shaft come out? I haven't actually taken it out yet. Are there standard bolts in there? Or something funky?

U-joints dying?

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