tjkj2002 wrote: You will loose any HP from that setup in the amps that is drwan from the alternator which makes the engine work harder and robbing more power from it.
Your turbocharged already,not going to get any better.
X2
Opening up the exhaust all the way to 2 1/2" will do as much as the stock turbo can handle. Make sure you get rid of the choke flange on the back of the Soot Fryer (CAT). The choke flange on the back of the CAT produces up to 5 PSI of back pressure with a stock muffler and 0.0PSI with the CAT in tact, straight through muffler and the choke flange opened up to 2 1/2 inches.
I heard of one guy that mounted a manometer like what they use to measure the pressure for natural gas valve adjustment for furnaces in the cab and ran a line to the air box. Then he screwed around putting holes in the air box until there was no air box vacuum.
In most automotive applications we measure vacuum in inches of mercury, manometers for furnace gas valve adjustment are calibrated in inches of water (much lighter).
Now if you want to do calculations: 14.7 PSI = 1 BAR =384 inches of water = 9.75 Meters = ~30 inches of mercury. My guess is that if you play around with the air box, you will be lucky to get rid of ~1-2 inches of water vacuum.
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Thinking of adding an electric blower off my cold air filter to force cold air into my engine..I guess somewhat of a cheap supercharger. Any thoughts on this..its not something I need to do but have a blower motor that will fit perfectly on the air box just past the map sensor. I will hard wire it to run when my crd is turned on or may run it off a separate switch. I will wait to see feed back before doing this..my thoughts are it cant hurt..more air an engine can get the better..but I have heard that on a diesel it can actually be a bad thing to get to much air. I will ad images as soon as I figure out how... 
