I did not have to touch the fuel filter either time I went after #4.

I just changed glow plugs at about 68,000 miles. All 4 were bad. I can't believe the Jeep started as well as it did.

I did make great use of the snake light/inspection camera.

What are the torque specs for the 3 bolts on the alternator bracket - I have 14 ft lbs for the vertical bolt by the alternator with the 15 mm head and 12 ft lbs. for the 2 horizontal bolts with the 13mm heads. Seemed a little light, but that is what I found for torque specs for them.

The nuts on the 6mm x 1 studs?

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2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 142,000 miles New engine 2-2014, Green Eco tune, FS2500 bypass filter Weeks elbow, European Torque converter, brakes front UCA's wheel bearing and front hubs. Front hitch OEM lift pump
98 K2500 Suburban 6.5td
96 K1500 " 6.5td
95 2 door Tahoe 6.5td
94 K3500 cc srw 5 speed 6.5td
91 International Model 6 speed spicer 4700

I'm looking at doing this on our CRD Liberty. Can anyone offer the part number for the gasket that the OP above says is required, relating to the vacuum hose or intake elbow? Thanks a million!

I am not 100% sure which gasket the OP is referring to but here is a kit that contains both that I believe he is referring to though you might be able to reuse the gasket or make gasket with a tube of gasket maker or put a little gasket maker type material on the old gasket and replace. If you go to ID parts where this link is to its in intake section you can get gaskets separately if needed for about $5 to $6
https://www.idparts.com/intake-elbow-ga ... -3663.html

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden

Thank you.

135K miles.
3rd owner.
Bought it with ~ 116K, so even though it's 'mostly' intact, I find little things like the steering/autotrans shifter interlock having been removed to be exciting enough for me.

With my luck - I'd wring off a seized GP trying to remove one.

I've got half a mind to pull the head, have it tanked, replace the valves and rockers, and have it put back together.

I'm getting too old for the drama, mirth and merriment of trying to make it all work out right on the first go round by just swapping the stock 7 volt GPs for the 5 volt GPs I have on a shelf.

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'06 Liberty Limited CRD.
149K miles.
- Timing belt done.
- Weeks Kit Stage 1.
- Weeks Kit Stage 2.
- JBA 2.5 inch Silver kit and UCAs installed at 125K miles.
- Weeks supplied Samco Intercooler Hoses and clamps.

Waiting for time, limber fingers, and good weather to do my HDS Model 001 Thermostat unit swap.

If it were mine I would decide on whether or not to take a calculated risk mainly depending on whether or not I knew for sure that the Timing Belt (TB) and water pump replacement had been performed . Next whether or not I was going to do the work myself or pay someone else to do it.

If its proven that TB and water pump have been replaced prior then I would probably just attempt to replace the glow plugs now and while doing this block egr pipe and unplug mass air flow sensor (the off road modification ORM ) or you could add tune either GDE or free from LOST. Then when its been about 70 to 80 thousand miles since TB maintenance or at about 170,000 miles on jeep I would plan on removing valve cover change to arp studs, replacing rockers, and valves and TB and water pump maintenance.

If TB info is unknown or not provable , I would proceed with all of above now or just change the glow plugs and (ORM) and or EGR block off.

Why not try and replace glow plugs you have nothing to loose, if you were going to remove head anyway. If you break one machine shop should be able to remove, Just soak with pb blaster get 6 star sockets, expose as much as possible and try to get extensions etc to get as straight a shot as possible to GP s and use firm but steady force and it may help to try to tighten slightly to get it broken loose. If they don't come out try soaking again with PH Blaster or similar and trying again. It helps to use something like a long curved needle nose plier to pull the wires off the GP s. Don't forget to use anti seize on the GP threads when reinstalled.

Of course there are all kinds of other stages of work or options that could be done. A lot is the cost benefit ratio and how many miles you plan on driving it. Remember no matter how many miles TB only good for up to 7 years.

Disregard part of this just realized you have already done the weeks kit and TB but the rest still holds true. Also will be a lot easier to get to the GP s !!!

Good Luck!

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05 Blu LIM, OME GDE Tbo, wk II 245/75/17, KC Lights, bull bar, 195K H TC
05 Blu Lim, Dayton, GDE HT, 255/75/18 , 210K , H TC
06 Bla Lim, GDE Eco, Destination AT 245/75/17, 151K, H TC
06 D Khaki Lim 126K wkII Eur TC
05 D khaki Lim 145k refurbishing
All CRDS: Fumoto, Lift , Fan Shroud mod, fuel head Gen II, SAMCOS,self TB, 2 Mic filt, Hayden