AC Compressor Replacement - Advice?

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Thu Dec 23, 2010 1:54 am

4:30 AM during a dark, wet commute: Whirrrrrr...Scrrrreeech pahtiiing! Scrinch scrinch scrintch...
There's no sound at idle, but when I lift the hood I notice the AC clutch is no longer engaging the compressor - even with AC on full. I've suspected something for a few months now as it seems to take a long time for internal moisture to clear from the windshield.

So, I'm now the proud - albeit broke - owner of a new compressor, accumulator, filter & fittings. I'm rearin' to go. (Granted, not as much rearin' as required if I take it to the Jeep Stealer.)

Before heading out to assemble my ElCheapo Brand tools, supply of Prozac, the hand suture kit, and my handy foam Tool-Throw Target, I figure it wise to check in for any sage advice regarding this procedure. Perhaps there are things to watch out for, or that might make it easier - or perhaps something I might want to check or replace while the old Gray Mule's guts are hanging out.

The Stealer listed the shop book time as 2.3 hrs. My time is usually their book time cubed. (I inevitably lack special tool #666 and/or break the special-order-only bolt.) My sneaky little suspicions are quoting Total Recall: "Get ready for a big surprise!"
Nonetheless, I'm hoping to finish before Santa makes his annual pit stop at my house to relieve himself down my chimney. I need the car drivable Xmas morning so we can all pile into with our presents and head to Nana & Grampa's house: The picture perfect happy family with the kiddies singing "Jingle Bells Batman Smells Robin Laid an Egg" rhythmically punctuated with screams of protest from flicked boogers. (I'll let my wife drive so I can ingest Family Tolerance Medication - similar to Granny Clampit's rheumatism medicine. :5SHOTS:

)

BTW: The Stealer quoted $1,000+ for compressor R&R ($650 + for OEM Compressor!) which caused a sharp pain in my Business End and very nearly invoked the F word on the phone. But alas! I found brand a new OEM compressor at DiscountACparts.com for $325. For $40 more dollars they threw in fittings, filter and new accumulator. They even said "thank you for your business". (The Stealer has yet to learn that phrase.) Parts were on my doorstep the next afternoon as described.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu Dec 23, 2010 7:52 am

After it's installed the system will need evacuated and a specified amount of oil put in then charged with R-132a. If your not versed in this I would take it to a shop for these "finishing touches" :BANANA:

It might be a good idea to flush out the system and rid it of any debris from the old compressor. That said it's best to recharge a system when the ambient temperature is hot :SOMBRERO:

With the so called global warming this should not be a problem except where I am we're having below normal temperatures from global cooling :jester:

flman · **Posted:** Thu Dec 23, 2010 8:01 am

Joe Romas wrote:

After it's installed the system will need evacuated and a specified amount of oil put in then charged with R-132a. If your not versed in this I would take it to a shop for these "finishing touches" :BANANA:

It might be a good idea to flush out the system and rid it of any debris from the old compressor. That said it's best to recharge a system when the ambient temperature is hot :SOMBRERO:

With the so called global warming this should not be a problem except where I am we're having below normal temperatures from global cooling :jester:

X2 proper evacuation is everything in AC charging, and if the compressor is shipped dry you will need the oil. You should have no problem charging as long as you have a means to weigh in the charge? Like Joe said take it to the shop, or spend another $600 for a vac pump, scale and charging manifold?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 23, 2010 8:46 am

You also must replace the orfice tube which is a whole line in KJ's(3.7's at least) to maintain the warranty on the new compressor.

Oh and it's R134A not R132A.

onthehunt · **Posted:** Thu Dec 23, 2010 1:32 pm

You must have the proper tools to do this. A/c is one of those things you don't want to wing or you will have problems. You need a vacuum pump and a scale that reads in ounces at the minumum. These are not cheap. That's why a/c systems cost so much to fix. I find you can get away with not replacing the orifice tube about 50% of the time. Really depends how the compressor failed. If the clutch just failed, your lucky. If the compressor failed internally you might want to invest in filters for the compressor lines. Make sure you pull a good vacuum for 15-20 minutes. Don't dump all the oil in the compressor if you have to add oil to the system. Push it into the discharge line. Add a little oil to the compressor and spin it by hand before installing. There are so many little things... If you are not familiar with a/c systems I highly recomend that you have a shop do the evac/charging for you.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Thu Dec 23, 2010 3:02 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

You also must replace the orfice tube which is a whole line in KJ's(3.7's at least) to maintain the warranty on the new compressor.

Oh and it's R134A not R132A.

If the compressor is truly trashed, add to that, I would replace the receiver dryer unless you have some clairvoyant way to estimate how much oil is in the system. Too much oil can cause problems or their could be other crap in the receiver dryer that can screw things up. When I evac, I keep the vacuum pump working for at least 1/2 hour to boil out any moisture.

Again, I walk through Casinos, go to the Buffet with out putting a cent into the slot machines.
Others may cut corners and take short cuts, I don't.

Do out CRDs use Ester oil, or PAG?

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Thu Dec 23, 2010 4:23 pm

Oh boy . . . . . :roll:

I found a video showing the procedure. It doesn't look complicated - but I don't have a vacuum pump or the right kind of scale.

The compressor didn't fail, the clutch did - so I'm reasonably confident the system isn't trashed.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu Dec 23, 2010 5:49 pm

The clutch is replacable on many if not all Sanyo compressors. Additionally there's a bearing in the clutch that can be replaced seperatly too.

KeighJeigh · **Posted:** Thu Dec 23, 2010 7:41 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

The clutch is replacable on many if not all Sanyo compressors. Additionally there's a bearing in the clutch that can be replaced seperatly too.

I probably should have checked that more carefully before buying the compressor - but was told by the Stealer the clutch was not available separately.

Oh well.

Based upon the input here, I've decided to take it to a mechanic tomorrow to have it installed. I hate the idea of screwing this up even more than getting screwed-over on the cost.

Time to grab the second credit card.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Thu Dec 23, 2010 10:53 pm

My wife's TDI went through two clutches, then the compressor. I did not catch a bad expansion valve. KJs don't have an expansion valve but an orifice tube that can clog up and trash clutches and the compressor.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Fri Dec 24, 2010 12:16 am

flman wrote:

Joe Romas wrote:

After it's installed the system will need evacuated and a specified amount of oil put in then charged with R-132a. If your not versed in this I would take it to a shop for these "finishing touches" :BANANA:

It might be a good idea to flush out the system and rid it of any debris from the old compressor. That said it's best to recharge a system when the ambient temperature is hot :SOMBRERO:

With the so called global warming this should not be a problem except where I am we're having below normal temperatures from global cooling :jester:

X2 proper evacuation is everything in AC charging, and if the compressor is shipped dry you will need the oil. You should have no problem charging as long as you have a means to weigh in the charge? Like Joe said take it to the shop, or spend another $600 for a vac pump, scale and charging manifold?

X3....if you get any moisture, air pockets or other contaminates in the system and they are not evacuated, your new compressor may go down for the count pretty quick.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 24, 2010 12:23 am

Better read the fine print for the new compressor warranty,you will need to replace the orifice tube(and reciever/dryer/acumulator) and have proof of it being installed before they will honor the warranty,even if to just fix a bad clutch with a intact system.

Just saying.........................

Wobbly · **Posted:** Fri Dec 24, 2010 11:24 am

On many compressors the clutch may be adjusted with shims, or just the clutch itself replaced.

flman · **Posted:** Fri Dec 24, 2010 8:36 pm

KeighJeigh wrote:

Oh boy . . . . . :roll:

I found a video showing the procedure. It doesn't look complicated - but I don't have a vacuum pump or the right kind of scale.

The compressor didn't fail, the clutch did - so I'm reasonably confident the system isn't trashed.

Every one thinks it looks so easy, Until................

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.ph ... sor+damage

MACKJ · **Posted:** Sun Dec 26, 2010 6:26 am

KeighJeigh wrote:

Joe Romas wrote:

The clutch is replacable on many if not all Sanyo compressors. Additionally there's a bearing in the clutch that can be replaced seperatly too.

I probably should have checked that more carefully before buying the compressor - but was told by the Stealer the clutch was not available separately.

Oh well.

Based upon the input here, I've decided to take it to a mechanic tomorrow to have it installed. I hate the idea of screwing this up even more than getting screwed-over on the cost.

Time to grab the second credit card.

Hi KeighJeigh,
Maybe you can help (with future KJs problem clutches) by posting any numbers you may find on the crappy clutch so we can find that sucker elsewhere sans compressor!

AC Compressor Replacement - Advice?

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