Hi Folks

I have noticed recently that whilst driving, the ESP and ABS lights come on intermittently and at one stage felt like the Jeep had gone into a limp mode.

Is it possible that if the break pads or discs need to be replaced that it would trigger this kind of behaviour or is this possibly the wheel sensor?

Ciao

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06 CRD LTD ( Euro )

Now the ABS and ESP lights are staying on permanently.

Any advice guys

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06 CRD LTD ( Euro )

You most likely have a faulty wheel speed sensor. Take it to a dealer or garage to access the ABS/ESP fault codes. Generic aftermarket scan tools will not work in this case. We had this issue on our 2006 and it ended up requiring a new front left wheel hub assembly. It was leaking grease on the internal tone wheel and preventing the sensor from having an accurate reading.

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

Save yourself a trip to the dealer and first check the wires inside the loom going to each rear wheel speed sensor. They tend to break, the right rear seems to be the most common.

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06 LIMITED 100000miles, MAGNAFLOW, HOMEBUILT CCV FILTER, POLAR PAD, 02 AIRBOX, CUMMINS LIFT PUMP, SEGR, PILLAR GAUGE POD, CAT FILTER MONITOR, SPYDER TRAX, ALWAYS A LITTLE TWO STROKE OIL OR BIO, WATER/METH INJECTION

When mine did that it was the left rear wheel speed sensor. The part is only $11-12 here in the states.

Dave

Agree on the wiring, i just had my mechanic do a bunch of work and this was 1 of the issues. I told him to 1st check the wiring cause that is what is usually the culprit, or so ive read on here

Mine did the same thing. Initially intermittent then permanent. It was the wiring to the left rear sensor. The twisted pair wiring they use seems stiffer than 'normal' wire.

http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/abstest.htm

It took me several months to finally fix the problem, and I was surprised how much better the Jeep drove with a functioning ABS system. Apparently the ABS data is also used in the engine/transmission management.

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My Jeep Liberty page

ORM, air filter mod, and less restrictive exhaust has increased my 'everyday' driving 3 mpg.

mine ended up being just the front steering sensor was off after being lifted, after alignment it fixed itself!
but it was weird, took a good 100+ miles to come on after the lift. but once the alignment was done, it took about 10miles and it shut off. been good ever since (crosses fingers/knock on wood)

on a side note, i DID use the website above and tested the rear wires first and they were good on mine (those are my fingers around that plug, figured i'd contribute a pic)

Quick question, is there a sensor on the rear diff or not, on what i have read on some of the other forums is that there are two front wheel and two rear wheel sensors plus a sensor on the diff.

I'm still trying to isolate where my problem is and what is causing the ABS / ESP warning lights to remain on.

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06 CRD LTD ( Euro )

After using Biohazard KJ CRD's write-up on the intank lift pump installation, I see that his '05 has a different harness than my '06.

I have a wheel sensor on each rear wheel (probably due to the '06 ESP traction control) but no diff sensor. So I have a tank connection and 2 wheel connections in my harness. Biohazard's '05 has only 2. One to the tank and so I am guessing the other goes to the diff. Maybe this is what you have read.

Correct, i have the same as you, two rear sensors and no diff sensor, i scanned her yesterday and diagnosis was right rear speed sensor erratic so at least i know where the problem is coming from although i know how wrong that can be as well. I suspect the problem to be the wiring so i'll check for crimping but now the problem is where to look first, under the hood at the ABS module as far as i can go then you get lost at the firewall and then the harness reappears close to the fuel tank, so it is a PITA.

Dealer tells me that you cannot do a continuity test at the sensors nor can you do a test with a voltmeter at the rear connector behind my passenger seat or drivers seat for the majority of you, don't know how correct that is as i'm not an auto electrician but i'm sure that i will get some sound advice from this forum as to what i can and can't do

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06 CRD LTD ( Euro )

You can do a continuity test. Starting from the ABS controller would be the first move. Sorry, I don't have the pin-outs for this. I do have for the connector under the back seat though.

The only thing is my connector is different than Devlish's. The pin by itself is the one I added for a lift pump in the tank (so you won't have it).



Disconnect the connectors from the wheel speed sensors and insert paper clips as Stan Wright shows above.

Devlish do you have a gas Liberty?
Maybe the reason for the different plug.

I removed the right rear sensor and noticed that the mount of the sensor was broken off and the securing bolt was slightly loose, this may have caused the erratic signal as read on the scanner. I cleaned the sensor with my compressor and reinstalled using a large washer that covered the half of the remaining mount that had not broken off.

Seems to be secure so i disconnected the battery hoping that this will clear the fault. Do i need to clear the fault on a scanner or will the the battery disconnect
do the trick

I have ordered a new sensor in the interim and hope that this is the problem with my ABS/BAS and not the wiring

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06 CRD LTD ( Euro )

Didn't work for me. Although, I may have a bad harness too.
For now, I am assuming that the codes were registered when I unplugged the harness and they require a scanner to clear.

I am working on a solution.

Seems to be okay now since i did the battery disconnect, yesterday and today no warning lights yet, back to normal.

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06 CRD LTD ( Euro )

Thank goodness for you people who bother to post....Daughter's Liberty had those three lights come on just a few days before she was to go off to college. All three light full "on" all the time, and the abs pump did not run. Thanks to the idea that it might be a wheel sensor, I disconnected each and checked for 12V in the harness side (key on). Needed some way to check the sensors. Weird, but my little ohmmeter would cause a brief flash of about 100 ohms if I put the leads on in one specific polarity, so i was able to tell that there was no connection from the plug to the front passenger sensor. $42 and 40 minutes later, and the pump came on when I started it. Lights went off after a few seconds with no power disconnect "reset". Apparently, the sensor had been previously replaced, because someone had removed two of the strain relief tabs, allowing the harness to flop around next to the strut! No wonder it went bad again! Had a Mercedes that went nuts when the twisted pair of solid core wires from the right rear wheel sensor rubbed through the insulation and shorted, causing the computer to think the car was in a spin, and apply random brakes, almost throwing you off the road. Apparently this problem is common, and a good place to start looking.