Inexpensive temporary EGR ORM idea

coyrl · **Joined:** Sat Feb 06, 2010 8:11 pm **Posts:** 15

Here is an idea for discussion. An inexpensive easy to remove ORM. Items: 31/32 drill bit, 3/4 NPT tap, 3/4 threade plug, nickel anti-stick paste, high temperature gasket material. The gasket material is used to create several gaskets to remove and replace the EGR tube.

Drill at the manifold end of the EGR tube then run the 3/4 NPT down as far as possible. Use plenty of cutting oil. Coat threaded plug with nickel paste.

then screw the plug in tight. Attach the EGR tube and instant EGR block off. When we drive back to the road, remove tube, then plug and replace tube.

Thoughts and comments please.

racertracer · **Posted:** Fri Dec 10, 2010 6:34 am

Coyrl,

I can't comment on your modification but I am sure that one of the experts will.

The most important question I and many here have is: have you discovered what the cause of your engine failure was?

CHessMaster · **Posted:** Fri Dec 10, 2010 12:51 pm

How will you stop the EGR code from setting and the check engine light from coming on?

You would need to put some kind of air filter in the inlet (exhaust manifold) side of the EGR valve (the opposite end of the tube you just plugged at the manifold). This would allow the MAF to still see the drop in airflow when the EGR valve opens, and the computer would still think the EGR is working.

If you could put an air tube from this port of the EGR valve into the top of the air cleaner housing (somewhere before the MAF anyway), it would be ideal as the system would get filtered air without having to mess with a separate air filter system.

This would be the ultimate cheap SEGR/ORM system, if you have the engine out or the exhaust manifold removed. It would be a pain to do it otherwise... :2cents:

geordi · **Posted:** Fri Dec 10, 2010 1:33 pm

Much easier, but less "undo-able" solution is what I did on mine:

Remove the metal tube that feeds the EGR.
Cut the tube an inch or so behind the flange, keeping that flange safe and intact.
Fill the end of the tube with welding wire - Welding it solid shut. Too much pressure to just use RTV here, but once it is welded and cool, fill the inside gaps with high-temp RTV.
Do a thin ring of RTV on the flange surface, re-install on the manifold and clamp in place.

Do the same thing on the intake end with the other tube, so as to not lose any boost when under power.

Last step - Install an SEGR and / or GDE tune... Forget the EGR was ever on the engine.

coyrl · **Joined:** Sat Feb 06, 2010 8:11 pm **Posts:** 15

It is not clear what happened to my engine. The engine had a turbo failure prior to my purchase of the vehicle and may have contributed to the failure. One thing is clear, the oil pan was filled with much debris and the 1 and 4 connecting rods got very hot.

My speculation is the previous owner abused the vehicle by aggressive driving and lack of timely oil changes. To me this would explain the extent of the damage and wear in the motor. One thing still puzzles me is the lack of wear in the top end. The camshaft and associated components are in fine condition. I have the head sent out to do a valve job, but the shop said it was not really needed so they're doing a light rework on the head.

Ultimately, the oil may have become so contaminated to eliminate the lubrication of the oil. I wish I knew exactly the root cause of the failure.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sat Dec 11, 2010 11:45 am

With the Acid Head Hippies and their surfs on the pay roll, the more stealth the plug the better. In your case an Allen head pipe plug would look official to the surf doing any inspections, where the hardware store plumbing plug looks tampered with.
For most of us a thin stainless steel plate on the flange going into the EGR would camouflage the modification.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat Dec 11, 2010 4:24 pm

Two things I see that make the inspection discovering something highly unlikely:

First, the droid doing the inspection (who spends his life huffing exhaust) would have to KNOW about our arse-backwards design. With such low build numbers, they are more likely to mistake it for a gasser with a bad lifter knock, or put it on a 2wd roller bed and break something expensive. Will they know where to look for an EGR tube, and be able to identify it (or its lack of existence) on a vehicle they might only ever see 5 of?

Doubtful, methinks.

Second, and this is subject to my own verification... But I believe you can't even see the outlet flange on the manifold without pulling the heat shield. Less of a consideration on the driver's side, where (on mine anyway) I have the OTHER flange plugged in the same method - Using the end of the tube, welded shut. Should anyone ever see / complain about that one, I can just as easily get a replacement tube, route it off into the back of the motor somewhere... And block it again. Or run it properly to the EGR valve, but fail to mention to the inspector droid that the tube is internally welded shut.

These people snort carbon monoxide all day, and are paid less than $10 / hr for the pleasure. Do you think they REALLY give a carp if your vehicle isn't producing visible smoke or stench? If you are super-nervous, run biodiesel for any inspection, and you will pass with flying colors.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sat Dec 11, 2010 10:46 pm

geordi wrote:

Two things I see that make the inspection discovering something highly unlikely:

First, the droid doing the inspection (who spends his life huffing exhaust) would have to KNOW about our arse-backwards design. With such low build numbers, they are more likely to mistake it for a gasser with a bad lifter knock, or put it on a 2wd roller bed and break something expensive. Will they know where to look for an EGR tube, and be able to identify it (or its lack of existence) on a vehicle they might only ever see 5 of?

Doubtful, methinks.

Second, and this is subject to my own verification... But I believe you can't even see the outlet flange on the manifold without pulling the heat shield. Less of a consideration on the driver's side, where (on mine anyway) I have the OTHER flange plugged in the same method - Using the end of the tube, welded shut. Should anyone ever see / complain about that one, I can just as easily get a replacement tube, route it off into the back of the motor somewhere... And block it again. Or run it properly to the EGR valve, but fail to mention to the inspector droid that the tube is internally welded shut.

These people snort carbon monoxide all day, and are paid less than $10 / hr for the pleasure. Do you think they REALLY give a carp if your vehicle isn't producing visible smoke or stench? If you are super-nervous, run biodiesel for any inspection, and you will pass with flying colors.

There are TSA agents in airports doing only what Doctors and Nurses should be doing. Harbor Freight has an inspection camera for $80 now. Train a droid and they can become dangerous!!!!
Of course I expect the TSA agent shoving the inspection camera places on our bodies before the emission inspection droid checks out my exhaust manifold. But you never know what a Brain Fried on Acid, Acid Hippie (the droids big boss) will dream up next.

Cowpie1 · **Posted:** Sun Dec 12, 2010 6:32 pm

Haven't tried the EGR tube block idea on my Jeep CRD, but I did do a block on my '06 Cummins ISX. On that one, where the EGR came into the intake manifold, I put a steel plate there and bolted it back up. Got a 13% overall increase in mpg and my wear numbers and soot on the oil samples dropped considerably. last sample had 8ppm iron, 1 ppm lead, and .1 ppm soot on a 630,000 mile engine and 23,000 on the oil. This mod was done over 240,000 miles ago. Guess it has just been on the back burner to do the Jeep, but will have to make some time to do it.

Inexpensive temporary EGR ORM idea

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