Capacities

0311_DoC · **Posted:** Fri Feb 17, 2006 10:41 am

CAPACITIES 2006 JEEP LIBERTY 2.8L 4-cyl VIN Code 5 TurboDiesel
Engine, with filter..........6.4 quarts
Cooling System, Initial Fill..........13.0 quarts
Automatic Transmission, 42RLE Initial Fill..........4.0 quarts[1][2]
Automatic Transmission, 545RFE Initial Fill..........5.0 quarts[3][4]
Automatic Transmission, Total Fill
545RFE..........14.0 quarts
4 speed 42RLE..........8.8 quarts
Manual Transmission, NSG370..........3.2 pints
Differential, Front..........2.5 pints[5]
Differential, with 8.25 RBI Rear..........4.2 pints
Transfer Case,NV231..........3.0 pints
Transfer Case,NV242..........3.4 pints
Transfer Case,NV241..........4.2 pints

Engine Oil
Grade 1......API*
Synthetic 5W-40 European Engine Oil

Do these numbers look right to you guys and oil type? pulled them off of the Amsoil site. And speaking of Amsoil, how to do all feel about there products for fluid and filter replacement needs.

grywlfbg · **Posted:** Fri Feb 17, 2006 11:35 am

Well obviously, owners/service manual are the final word on capacities. I'm not sure what they mean by Initial Fill and total fill for the tranny. this is my first auto xmission.

As for Amsoil - I'm using them now w/ no problems and have used them in my bikes and other cars for about 2 years now. In the CRD I'm using the 5W-30 Heavy Duty Diesel oil. It's more expensive than the European 5W-40 but I like the idea of 25k drain intervals.

Haven't needed to replace the diffs or tranny fluid yet so no comment there.

KJbob · **Posted:** Fri Feb 17, 2006 12:07 pm

When it's time to change the differential oil, transfer case, and transmission fluid, Amsoil is going in. I've had good luck with their products for years. Amsoil's 5w-40 European formula oil is a great choice also.

Oberkanone · **Joined:** Thu Oct 06, 2005 2:34 pm **Posts:** 26

6.0 qts is listed for oil capacity at the dealership for the service manual. :roll:

When I had first oil change the mechanic wanted to talk to me about the oil level after the 6.0 qts listed in the service manual was added and I grabbed my owners manual that states 6.4 qts.
Even with 6.4 qts., the oil level is 1/2 way between max and min.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sat Feb 18, 2006 12:41 am

7 quarts when you throw in the filter. Both times I did mine and changed the filter, 7 quarts put it right on max after running a couple minutes to refill everything.

Apparently service dept at my dealership figured this out too. Gave them two gallon jugs of Rotella when I took it in for service, and got back one jug with exactly one quart left in it.

0311_DoC · **Posted:** Sat Feb 18, 2006 12:51 am

Ok next question. when should I do my first oil change, I have heard all the horror stories about the factory oil??? and I guess I need a special 8mm wrench or hex bit to get the oil drain plug off? any words of wisdom here....

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sat Feb 18, 2006 11:33 am

0311_DoC wrote:

Ok next question. when should I do my first oil change, I have heard all the horror stories about the factory oil??? and I guess I need a special 8mm wrench or hex bit to get the oil drain plug off? any words of wisdom here....

Hold off on the oil change till you can get a FUMOTO oil drain valve and adapter from Greg at LUBESPECIALIST this will help you the next time you change oil as no tool will be required, you can just push up and turn a lever and the oil drains out. I have been using them for years and there has never been a report of a failure in the years I have been using them. The adapters & valves should be ready for sale in about two to four weeks.

If you have the transmission skid plate, that's the first mod you should do to protect back section of cast aluminum oil pad and the oil filter that is mounted top side of the oil pan and is about 1" lower then the pan and easy knocked of even on the highway by a tire tread. The valve will also be protected by the skid plate and if you order the one with the nipple you can put a 3/8" hose on the nipple, run it to whatever you want to catch the oil in, all without spilling any of the nastiest oil you have ever dealt with unless you have been around diesels before. Without this drain valve you will always have a mess on your hands when changing oil. Even the dealer hates diesel oil changes and especially when there are skid plates.

Picture of poil pan off the CRD and picture of oil filter & oil pan with OEM Shid plate installed is at bottom of the page at the link below.

http://mycitycable.com/~noreasons/Oil%20filter%20&%20Skid%20plate.JPG

0311_DoC · **Posted:** Sat Feb 18, 2006 3:39 pm

cool, yea I had a fumto on my power stroke, loved it. I need to get a skid, for I dont have one to protect the oil filter. i have 2.3K on the KJ now so I can still wait?

oldnavy · **Posted:** Sat Feb 18, 2006 4:19 pm

0311_DoC wrote:

cool, yea I had a fumto on my power stroke, loved it. I need to get a skid, for I dont have one to protect the oil filter. i have 2.3K on the KJ now so I can still wait?

I would do the oil change and FUMOTO install first then put the Tranny skid on the CRD at that time. The good news is the OEM tranny skid is only about $40 list from dealer and can be done by one person and only takes about 15 to 20 minutes. The first oil change and FUMOTO install will be easier to do without the skid in the way, but not difficult.

If you are doing any off roading and don't plan on changing oil for a while yet I would get the skid and get it installed. There is nothing protecting the oil filter & back half of oil pan from highway road hazard like tire treads off semi and if you do off roading you could bottom out your oil pan on a rock and could crack or knock a hole in the oil pan or break off oil filter.

longarm · **Posted:** Mon Feb 20, 2006 5:17 am

Any word on when the FUMOTO is going to be ready?

oldnavy · **Posted:** Mon Feb 20, 2006 8:52 am

longarm wrote:

Any word on when the FUMOTO is going to be ready?

No not offically, but my guess is end of the month or the end of 1st wk in March.

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