thegn,
The lowest common denominator in your situation is the dealership. My first and foremost suggestion is to get it out of their hands yesterday. This will be a long post, so bear with me.
Boost hoses do not burst from overpressure by the turbo. They burst from oil, coming from the "hockey puck" dkenny described. The solvents in the motor oil weaken the hoses, which eventually leak or burst. Then, the Jeep will have no power, it will smoke a lot upon acceleration, and display many of the other symptoms you described.
If, at idle with the shifter in park, the engine does not knock or make any noises that are obviously way wrong, then it DOES NOT need to be torn into.
To check for turbo failure, there are a few simple steps to diagnose it. Make sure the engine is off and cool, then with the hood open and standing facing the engine, put your hand on the airbox close on your left. There is a tube that runs from the top of the box to the turbo. Loosen the hose clamp at the turbo and pull the hose off. (it will be kind of cramped in there, but it saves you $$$) Shine a flashlight in there, and you will see the fan part of the turbo that pulls in air. (technical name, impeller) Put your finger on the shaft in the middle of the fan and try to push it in and pull it out, and wiggle it left and right. (not just turning it, it should spin freely) If it has a noticable amount of movement, then the turbo is gone, and you will need to replace it. For that, I would recommend purchasing a turbo kit from GDE and having a local diesel shop do the install. Might as well upgrade if it's broken, right? And it would still be cheaper than the dealer replacing it with a stock unit. (Which IS available - further evidence of the dealership rooking you with that line about parts not being available for over a year now. They just want to lowball you on the trade, sell you another vehicle, then repair your Jeep, send it to auction, and make $$$. They wouldn't offer you $6500 for a Jeep that is catastrophically damaged; they look like they're trying to help you but they are just trying to profit off of you.)
But I digress.
If the turbo shaft has minimal to no play in it, NOW it's time to spend money. Go to Wal Mart and buy a $100 Innova OBDII scanner to pull and clear codes from the engine computer. Follow the instructions, pull the codes, and post here. Most likely you will get a code related to the MAP sensor described by dkenny. At that point, it is time to check to see if it needs cleaning - even though the dealership "cleaned" your intake, I doubt that they took any notice whatsoever of the MAP. Here is a link to instructions for that step: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=22630
Once you've done that and put everything back together, take it for a drive and see how it's working. If my guess is correct, it will drive much more like it did before all of this came up. If that is the case, it's time for the next expenditure.
Get the Green Diesel Engineering tune that dkenny mentioned; it will be the most expensive part of this process, $450. That will make your engine computer as up-to-date as possible, as well as giving you better performance, fuel economy, and driveability. If money is an issue, you can take a free and simple step that will help, but cause you to have a persistent check engine light on. Link here: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=22631 That is another reason to have the scanner I first mentioned.
Provided that there really was no major mechanical damage, (It's hard to diagnose things long-distance) by this time in the process you should be driving a Jeep that performs even better than it did brand new.
Many problems that are common to the CRD Liberty have been solved by this community - many times in response to dealer incompetence. The dealer tends to look for the most expensive and labor-intensive fix for your problem, due to the way their pay-scale and reimburseable rates are fixed. Many a turbo has been replaced that was not broken, but because it was more profitable for the dealer to replace a turbo than to replace boost hoses. (And they say it is because of the turbo overpressuring the hoses, so it must be replaced)
If you are willing to get your hands dirty and not let yourself be taken advantage of, follow the advice in my post and of several posters here, and take matters into your own (dirty and sooty) hands. Here's a link to a post I created a while back that goes into the causes and reasons for these systemic failures: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50930
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I personally had his tune on my Jeep and loved it. It fixes alot of issues the KJ CRD's are known for like dumping to much soot back in the turbo system through the EGR, etc. It fixes other things also like the horribly proportioned fuel gauge, etc. 