Allright, let me chime in on this...
First off, call Green Diesel Engineering and talk to Keith. He rents all the tools for $20. See if he has a set available that is not rented out currently adn explain your situation that you are down and in need of the tools to fix ur rig. He may be able to get them out to you ASAP. Also, if you have any questions, he is a wealth of knowledge on the CRD.
Second, (and this is my personal opinion based on my experience doing my timing belt myself, in my garage with his tools) It IS possible to use the cam locking pins to hold the camshafts in place (since I did this accidentally) though it puts alot of stress on the locking pins and the holes they go into in camshafts themselves. I loosened the bolts on the camshaft sprockets using only the pins to hold them in place before I realized that was what the other tool is used for...to NOT put all that stress on the little locking pins (though obviously they are stong enough and it only lightly marred their surface). Again I am not recommending this for the obvious reason that something may break and there are other options to avoid needing the cam holding tool...see below.
Thirdly, and most important of all, it IS NOT necessary to loosen the camshaft sprockets at all if the injection pump is put/left in the original position. This means the third expensive tool is not really necessary if you do not loosen the cam gears. Only the locking pins (or something similar to do the job) would be required...see explanation below:
- The Injection pump is timed, you probably know this. What you may not know is it has 3, yes 3 possible positions that are ok for it to be in when everything else is lined up (because it had 3 pump cycles every rotation). It, however, has only 1 timing mark on the injection pump sprocket to line up with the 1 mark on the housing. When I took my belt cover off and started getting into it, I realized the injection pump did not match the timing mark for it. This is because it has 3 cycles per revolution. Because it has teeth on the sprocket it may not line up with the position of the cam gears when turned to its timing mark, the manual says to loosen the camshaft gears and then time the pump (because of this). This (loosening camshaft gears) can be avoided if you rotate the engine until it is in the correct position for timing it AND the injection pump is on the correct cycle for its mark to line up also(this may take several revolutions to achieve both at the same time - or you might get luck and have it all lined up on the first try). OR, the other option is to use a sharpie or white out to mark the pump pulley exactly where it matches the mark on its housing and then ensure the pulley is in this exact position when putting the belt back on (not really recommended because it is easy to mark at a slight angle and can be difficult to tell if it is lined up right, etc for optimal timing). By doing one of these things you can avoid having to loosen the cam gears and avoid retorquing them when done.
Also, it would be smart to replace the timing belt while in there and if you can afford it the water pump, timing tensioner pulley, and 2 timing idler pulleys so your jeep is good to go for another 100k miles if you have not already replaced those.
Hopefully this helps so you don't have to give up on this project.
May God be with you,
- Mark
|
