In Line Lift Pump Suggestions

Herk · **Posted:** Tue Apr 17, 2012 2:27 am

Well not so good. New Fuel head and filter and in line lift pump and its still flaming out on the highway.During priming no air. Besides the hoses above the tank what was else could cause this? The lines should be here on thursday. :furious:

kidjedi · **Posted:** Sat Jan 16, 2016 6:48 pm

Herk wrote:

Well not so good. New Fuel head and filter and in line lift pump and its still flaming out on the highway.During priming no air. Besides the hoses above the tank what was else could cause this? The lines should be here on thursday. :furious:

Aw, man... what a place for a thread to die! :lol:

Putting in a lift pump soon. Had been planning on spending a lot (comparatively) of cash and time on the Kennedy, but was getting intrigued by the Facet reading this thread. Less than $70 and next to the battery (vs. under the vehicle and tying into the wire bundle under the driver's seat) sounds so much more convenient! Almost cheap and easy enough to give it a shot and not worry too much if it ended up not working and having to go the Kennedy route anyway.

pjigar · **Posted:** Sat Jan 16, 2016 8:48 pm

kidjedi wrote:

Herk wrote:

Well not so good. New Fuel head and filter and in line lift pump and its still flaming out on the highway.During priming no air. Besides the hoses above the tank what was else could cause this? The lines should be here on thursday. :furious:

Aw, man... what a place for a thread to die! :lol:

Putting in a lift pump soon. Had been planning on spending a lot (comparatively) of cash and time on the Kennedy, but was getting intrigued by the Facet reading this thread. Less than $70 and next to the battery (vs. under the vehicle and tying into the wire bundle under the driver's seat) sounds so much more convenient! Almost cheap and easy enough to give it a shot and not worry too much if it ended up not working and having to go the Kennedy route anyway.

One of the weak point in the fuel path is the quick-connect connector near the tank. These connectors can ingest air under suction but not under compression. So any pump AFTER these connectors can still have air-in-the fuel issues if the air is entering from these connectors.

In tank pump install is not bad at all. I was able to do it in 4 hours. Read about my experience in the main thread: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=37868

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sat Jan 16, 2016 8:57 pm

pjigar wrote:

kidjedi wrote:

Herk wrote:

Well not so good. New Fuel head and filter and in line lift pump and its still flaming out on the highway.During priming no air. Besides the hoses above the tank what was else could cause this? The lines should be here on thursday. :furious:

Aw, man... what a place for a thread to die! :lol:

Putting in a lift pump soon. Had been planning on spending a lot (comparatively) of cash and time on the Kennedy, but was getting intrigued by the Facet reading this thread. Less than $70 and next to the battery (vs. under the vehicle and tying into the wire bundle under the driver's seat) sounds so much more convenient! Almost cheap and easy enough to give it a shot and not worry too much if it ended up not working and having to go the Kennedy route anyway.

One of the weak point in the fuel path is the quick-connect connector near the tank. These connectors can ingest air under suction but not under compression. So any pump AFTER these connectors can still have air-in-the fuel issues if the air is entering from these connectors.

In tank pump install is not bad at all. I was able to do it in 4 hours. Read about my experience in the main thread: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=37868

Doesn't really matter as long as the fuel/air is pushed into the high pressure fuel pump by the Facet pump under the hood. Any bubbles will pass through unnoticed. Now a gross air leak of course will matter, but mine's been running with the stock fuel lines and a Facet under the hood for 8 years.

taroo · **Joined:** Sun Apr 27, 2008 2:14 pm **Posts:** 276

Doesn't really matter as long as the fuel/air is pushed into the high pressure fuel pump by the Facet pump under the hood. Any bubbles will pass through unnoticed. Now a gross air leak of course will matter, but mine's been running with the stock fuel lines and a Facet under the hood for 8 years.[/quote]

and to make sure I understand. The Facet goes inline BEFORE the Fuel Filter head? Meaning I plumb the Facet in series before the Fuel Filter head.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Sat Jan 23, 2016 1:25 am

Yes. You want the fuel head pressurized.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Mar 26, 2017 3:32 am

NOTE:

when purchasing an inline fuel pump make sure that it has the following characteristics:

1. It is rated for diesel/biodiesel fuel.
2. it is a FLOW through diesel fuel pump.

This type of pump has a check valve that allows the fuel to continue to flow even if the pump fails. If the pump fails the flow of fuel is not hampered, the flow of diesel will continue to flow through the inoperable pump, allowing the original Bosch fuel pump to take over unobstructedly, permitting the engine to continue to operate and not leave you stranded on the side of the road.

Hence the reason for a positive flow fuel pump.

4wheeldeal · **Joined:** Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:11 pm **Posts:** 70

Is there a list somewhere of recommended inline pumps or can someone post one? Mine left me at the boat ramp with my boat attached. Good times and I want it to be the last time.

Thanks
Mike

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Mon Aug 20, 2018 10:34 pm

Why not do the in-tank version?

Pretty much ends any possible fuel problem, except for fuel gelling in the winter if you haven't used preventive measures, and even then it could make fixing the problem so much easier and faster.

4wheeldeal · **Joined:** Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:11 pm **Posts:** 70

Mainly cost, ease of installation and it works just as well. My jeep needs to last me till spring so dumping anything more money wise into it when I'm sure something else will break in a few weeks or months doesn't seem worth it. I can't seem me getting more than $4000 for it if I fix the rust. It's basically a money pit right now being at the age it is. Everything is leaking fluid. I'll need a u joint soon and most likely something else.

Mainly I haven't found anything yet stating the inline doesn't work well. So why spend 4x the money and 4x the time or more for something that does the same thing?

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Tue Aug 21, 2018 2:51 am

Well, if you are not keeping it, it definitely makes more sense to go the cheapest route.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Tue Aug 21, 2018 4:11 am

Facet 40109. I've had one in my CRD since 2011. Works great.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 21, 2018 6:22 am

ebbnflow wrote:

Facet 40109. I've had one in my CRD since 2011. Works great.

Same here. Works great. No issues.

4wheeldeal · **Joined:** Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:11 pm **Posts:** 70

flash7210 wrote:

ebbnflow wrote:

Facet 40109. I've had one in my CRD since 2011. Works great.

Same here. Works great. No issues.

I think I'll end up getting that one. Need to order one today. Thanks.

4wheeldeal · **Joined:** Thu Mar 15, 2012 11:11 pm **Posts:** 70

CATCRD wrote:

Herk wrote:

Does anyone have pic of the relay box on which pin to put the hot wire on or a accurate description?? Planning to put one in tomorrow. AK

The insulation is just stripped a bit and shoved in with the center pin of the relay.

anyone have the pic of the reply box the link doesn't work anymore.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 22, 2018 7:10 pm

Sorry no pic. But a test light or voltmeter will help you find the correct pin.

In Line Lift Pump Suggestions

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