06 liberty crd glow plug question

joechristian · **Joined:** Thu Jan 20, 2011 1:30 pm **Posts:** 2

This is my first post on the site and I have a problem with my 06 crd liberty. Check engine light came on...took it to dealer - diagnosed #4 glow plug bad. They told me the part was on national back order...they were cool - did not charge me a thing (Peters Dodge in Longview TX) and they told me that they did not know when the part might be available.... I did a little internet searching found part # 68090434AA a control unit and 4 plugs - from a dealer on the east coast - it is here...but I have been doing some research and it looks like there needs to be some re-programming done at the time these are installed - is this a "dealer only" program - or is it something a shade tree lime myself can do? Thank you! joe c.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Jan 20, 2011 8:29 pm

Howdy Joe welcome to LOST

- yes you need to have new programming - the New are supposed to be 5v vs the old 7 volt - no one's mentioned it from the dealer - email Green Diesel Engineering - Keith tends to have all the info.

Also you might want to post in the CRD Love that Torque section - more folks see that section

joechristian · **Joined:** Thu Jan 20, 2011 1:30 pm **Posts:** 2

Thank you ATXKJ - I just did post this on the other "love the torque" link... maybe somebody there will be able to give me some clear direction on this..jc

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Fri Jan 21, 2011 3:19 pm

There's been several glow plug threads lately and reading them you'll find there's no "clear direction" on them at this time.
It's about 99% that you'll need a engine computer flash to use the new metal ones.

Welcome to lOST and the CRD ownership :POPCORN:

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Fri Jan 21, 2011 5:26 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

There's been several glow plug threads lately and reading them you'll find there's no "clear direction" on them at this time.
It's about 99% that you'll need a engine computer flash to use the new metal ones.

Welcome to lOST and the CRD ownership :POPCORN:

Or stick with the Old Ceramics ordered from other suppliers. Just treat them like you are working with non medical grade (diluted with water) Nitro Glycerin when you remove and replace them and you will be OK. #1 & #4 are the easiest to get to,#2 is a little more work, #3 is a Royal pain in the body, not just the butt, back, or neck.
Needless to say, many of the Techs treated them rough or forced them out of the head with out working the stuck ones back and forth with penetrating oil. When I had a shop, I had to make sure the Techs did not use impact tools on Spark Plugs to beat flat rate. Imagine what will happen to a Ceramic glow plug when using an pneumatic impact tool.

Sunazur · **Joined:** Mon Jan 03, 2011 6:18 pm **Posts:** 33

warp2diesel wrote:

Joe Romas wrote:

There's been several glow plug threads lately and reading them you'll find there's no "clear direction" on them at this time.
It's about 99% that you'll need a engine computer flash to use the new metal ones.

Welcome to lOST and the CRD ownership :POPCORN:

Or stick with the Old Ceramics ordered from other suppliers. Just treat them like you are working with non medical grade (diluted with water) Nitro Glycerin when you remove and replace them and you will be OK. #1 & #4 are the easiest to get to,#2 is a little more work, #3 is a Royal pain in the body, not just the butt, back, or neck.
Needless to say, many of the Techs treated them rough or forced them out of the head with out working the stuck ones back and forth with penetrating oil. When I had a shop, I had to make sure the Techs did not use impact tools on Spark Plugs to beat flat rate. Imagine what will happen to a Ceramic glow plug when using an pneumatic impact tool.

Hello, you might help me to better understand the GPs situation.
Actually the status of my problem is the following :
I do have one burned GP ( have >200 Ohms in the GP 4 pin connector ) . I think I do have the GP3 faulty , if the connector pin are numbered as following : ( the only thing I know is that I have the > 200 Ohms comes from the pin located in the bottom right

[ 1 2 ]
[ 4 3 ]

Here are the question
1) it seems is not good to replace *only* the faulty one , but is better to change them all
2) from the radiator fan onward , which is the order of the cylinder ? 2 , 1 , 3, 4 ???
3) does exist somewhere a tutorial here about how to change them ( pics ) ?? I am pretty concerned about the one located just behind the EGR Intake valve , looks very complicate to remove it , as well it looks difficult the one located behind the Alternator, how I can remove it ??? what about the service belt ? How it can be removed ??

Some help would be very appreciated....

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Fri Jan 21, 2011 7:23 pm

Sunazur wrote:

warp2diesel wrote:

Joe Romas wrote:

There's been several glow plug threads lately and reading them you'll find there's no "clear direction" on them at this time.
It's about 99% that you'll need a engine computer flash to use the new metal ones.

Welcome to lOST and the CRD ownership :POPCORN:

Or stick with the Old Ceramics ordered from other suppliers. Just treat them like you are working with non medical grade (diluted with water) Nitro Glycerin when you remove and replace them and you will be OK. #1 & #4 are the easiest to get to,#2 is a little more work, #3 is a Royal pain in the body, not just the butt, back, or neck.
Needless to say, many of the Techs treated them rough or forced them out of the head with out working the stuck ones back and forth with penetrating oil. When I had a shop, I had to make sure the Techs did not use impact tools on Spark Plugs to beat flat rate. Imagine what will happen to a Ceramic glow plug when using an pneumatic impact tool.

Hello, you might help me to better understand the GPs situation.
Actually the status of my problem is the following :
I do have one burned GP ( have >200 Ohms in the GP 4 pin connector ) . I think I do have the GP3 faulty , if the connector pin are numbered as following : ( the only thing I know is that I have the > 200 Ohms comes from the pin located in the bottom right

[ 1 2 ]
[ 4 3 ]

Here are the question
1) it seems is not good to replace *only* the faulty one , but is better to change them all
2) from the radiator fan onward , which is the order of the cylinder ? 2 , 1 , 3, 4 ???
3) does exist somewhere a tutorial here about how to change them ( pics ) ?? I am pretty concerned about the one located just behind the EGR Intake valve , looks very complicate to remove it , as well it looks difficult the one located behind the Alternator, how I can remove it ??? what about the service belt ? How it can be removed ??

Some help would be very appreciated....

They should be #1 in the front, but some of the Glow plug harnesses are installed backwards. Mine was right and the white ID tag was on #1. I removed the alternator bracket, moved the fuel filter out of the way, took the two bolts out of the lower flange to the EGR valve, removed the 4 bolts holding the flapper actuator on, dropped it down just enough to get the 1/4" extension through, unplugged all I could that was in the way including the vacuum line going to the brake booster, and did the deed. Down load the FSM manual from the link Sir Sam has in the noob section, it does drop a few hints that help a little. I have done mechanic work for many years and this job was not the easiest one I have done, take your time in a comfortable place. I am 6'1" and put concrete half block on the ground so I could reach down to get the flange on the EGR that has to be removed. Summit Racing lists the Glow Plugs if they have not sold out.
Run the engine and warm it up half way, then plug in your block heater to keep it warm, lots of breakage is from removing the glow plugs on a cold engine. Also drop your front skid plate so anything you drop that does not hang up on the engine goes onto the ground. Like I said it is a Royal pain in the body.
The FSM lists .8 ohm for the glow plug resistance, if they are cold the reading is lower and warm it is higher. 200 ohms is junk. My #3 acted like a capacitor when I tested it several times both in the engine and after it was out, needless to say, it was junk.
Good Luck.

Sunazur · **Joined:** Mon Jan 03, 2011 6:18 pm **Posts:** 33

warp2diesel wrote:

They should be #1 in the front, but some of the Glow plug harnesses are installed backwards. Mine was right and the white ID tag was on #1. I removed the alternator bracket, moved the fuel filter out of the way, took the two bolts out of the lower flange to the EGR valve, removed the 4 bolts holding the flapper actuator on, dropped it down just enough to get the 1/4" extension through, unplugged all I could that was in the way including the vacuum line going to the brake booster, and did the deed. Down load the FSM manual from the link Sir Sam has in the noob section, it does drop a few hints that help a little. I have done mechanic work for many years and this job was not the easiest one I have done, take your time in a comfortable place. I am 6'1" and put concrete half block on the ground so I could reach down to get the flange on the EGR that has to be removed. Summit Racing lists the Glow Plugs if they have not sold out.
Run the engine and warm it up half way, then plug in your block heater to keep it warm, lots of breakage is from removing the glow plugs on a cold engine. Also drop your front skid plate so anything you drop that does not hang up on the engine goes onto the ground. Like I said it is a Royal pain in the body.
The FSM lists .8 ohm for the glow plug resistance, if they are cold the reading is lower and warm it is higher. 200 ohms is junk. My #3 acted like a capacitor when I tested it several times both in the engine and after it was out, needless to say, it was junk.
Good Luck.

Thank you, everything is getting more clear ,
today I had time to open the hood and check again the 4 pin connector and the wiring GP schema provided in the KJ Manual .
The burned GP is the one wired with the cable RD/BR ( Brown ) . So, in a lucky situation ( crossing finger ) is the GP# 2 , that is seems to be the one more accessible ( just right after the back of the alternator ) , I will try to take a picture to have confirmation.

I found for my KJ the following GP ( I leave in Europe) : http://www.oscaro.com/bougie-de-prechauffage-jeep-cherokee-cherokee-243-20528-2709-gt
This GPs are definitely not ceramic ( the BERU one e.g. ) and I am wondering if they propose the good choice ( 2007 2.8 crd Liberty ) .
Do they are 7V?? ( the specs mention as well 11.5 ) . :juggle:

On BERU website I got as well the same GPs , so I am tempted to say they are right. : Beru Glow Plug
How I can check if I do have a metallic GPs , it will be enough to see the P/No of the GP Bosch Module ? :juggle:

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Jan 23, 2011 6:00 pm

Sunazur wrote:

How I can check if I do have a metallic GPs , it will be enough to see the P/No of the GP Bosch Module ? :juggle:

The second post down on this thread gives the part number for the GP controler. Comparing the number on yours to what's listed in the post may give you a good indication but read the whole thread :ALONE:

The GP module controls the voltage to the GP's so it should be enough once you've identified what you have.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=57915

DarrylMueller · **Joined:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 1:54 am **Posts:** 5

Does anyone have any of these glow plugs. Dealer wants $1300. for the up date. If someone has used glow plugs that work or new, info on who may stock? I am a buyer? Darryl 925-449-3131 or dmc@darrylmueller.com

jeepdan · **Posted:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 8:55 am

$1,300 Wow, :dizzy:

I'm assuming that would be parts and labor plus the new ECM flash for 5 volts.

Ajamant · **Posted:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:10 am

Wow....1300$ is about what the stealership charges for a timing belt change. That is a ridiculous price...... Parts no more than 200$, can't remember exactly. Do them yourself and have them reflash system for you, normally around 100$. Better yet, spend the money on a GDE tune and you can get the updated flash for the plugs at the same time.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 10:49 am

I cannot speak to the export market KJs although I assume that at least the 2005/6 models have the same 7v ceramic glow plugs as the US/Canadian models. If your ceramic plugs are working you can do nothing or if you are in a warm environment unplug the glow plug power so they don't work as they are not needed in warm areas like mine or you can be proactive and replace them, see comments below. If one or more ceramic glow plugs are bad you can try to find a spare ceramic plug for sale (some forum members have them from time to time but they are no longer available at dealers or any Mopar online suppliers as far as I know) as a replacement or unplug them per the comment above or replace them with upgraded glow plugs, see comments below. Be advised there are some reports of tips of the ceramic plugs breaking and causing engine damage (search around on the forum for chat on this issue) which is why I will likely be proactive fairly soon. I'm still under the 7/70 warranty so I can, per below, jump on the TSB or go with the Etecno1 option when available.

For those that want to be proactive or need to replace ceramic plugs with upgraded plugs there are 2 options at this time. First option - the MOPAR kit #68090434AA (controller and 4 metal 5v glow plugs) which costs ca. $120 mail order or a bit under $200 at a dealer. 2 Notes - 1) do not try buying each metal plug and the controller individually as they are very pricey that way and 2) if you DIY do NOT hookup the new 5v glow plugs to power until you have your ECU reflashed as an unflashed ECU will trigger 7v power to the 5v plugs and likely burn them out. An ECU reflash can be done by the dealer although I understand their rip-off price for the 10 minute job runs $100 or if you have a GDE ECU tune the update is $50; for those of you without the GDE ECU tune I'd strongly recommend getting a GDE ECU tune and considering that the $100 you did not spend at the dealer is a discount on the GDE tune with all its benefits. As to cost of the install TSB 08-005-11 apparently allows 2.5 hours of labor time for the job and there are at least 2 reports on the forum of a $500+a bit cost for those out of warranty. For DIY folks see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=56696&p=630729&hilit=glow+service#p630729 . Second option - Etecno1, is working on a direct 7v metal replacement (see viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62346&p=690168&hilit=tester#p690168) that they hope to have on the market around the 1st of the year. Yes this is a valid company and the testers include GDE. This option does not require an ECU reflash.

Note - GDE (see post at viewtopic.php?f=5&t=59740&p=665035&hilit=glow#p665035) does not recommend using the 11v metal plugs although some are doing so but I don't recall any operational reports.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 4:19 pm

DarrylMueller wrote:

Does anyone have any of these glow plugs. Dealer wants $1300. for the up date. If someone has used glow plugs that work or new, info on who may stock? I am a buyer? Darryl 925-449-3131 or dmc@darrylmueller.com

For part number and procedure tell your dealer to look up TSB 08-005-11 :BANANA:

It tells him the part numbers for the 5 volt metal glow plugs that replaced the 7 volt ceramic ones that are no longer available and the procedures for flashing the engine control modules for both the 05 and 06 model years.
The "kit" part number is 68090434aa and hand written is $248 but the copy I have is from a dealer in Canada so the price might be different.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 4:29 pm

That appears to be an old Canadian price. Current US list is ca. $185 dealer or ca. $120 mail order.

Ajamant · **Posted:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 5:36 pm

185$ is what I paid for the plugs at the dealer. The kids at the counter had no idea they even made a CRD!!!!! They also couldn't understand why I kept refusing to set up a time to reflash the plugs..... I told them I would take care of it (thank u GDE)

DarrylMueller · **Joined:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 1:54 am **Posts:** 5

Dealer says it's not covered, we have the extended warranty, we will call warranty and see why? You would think something that could break off in the engine would at least be notified to avoid a bigger problem. Oh I thought that was a recall? The $1300 is for the new glow plugs or kit, as call out in service bulletin 08-005-11.
With the fact that they could break off makes me want to change to metallic.
Thank you for all the info.

DarrylMueller · **Joined:** Thu Sep 15, 2011 1:54 am **Posts:** 5

Checked again with extended Warranty and will not cover this repair. The kit is $183.00 so we fix. Thanks again!

06 liberty crd glow plug question

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