flash7210 wrote:
Assuming you can strengthen the bottom end with better rods, the weak link is gonna be
the aluminum head. Better head bolts or studs my help keep it from "lifting" but you would
also want a thicker deck.
Filling all the coolant passages may help strengthen the head also, but then you are stuck
with a pure drag racer.

Does anyone know the deck thickness of the head? I know head lifting (pissing water) all to well with turboed LSx motors (stock bolt pattern heads) I've dabbled with. I mean that would not be my main cocern at the moment, I just wonder how much can we pick up until till we start to get into problems and limits of stock internals. Then from there work to band aid, or fix them.. Getting head studs made, then how much more can we get? etc I've never actual been inside this engine yet, its gotta be a skirted block right, Im sure? You can do quite a few things, not horribly expensive to prevent main caps from walking. (assuming there of a decent quality form the get go) Whats the make up of the factory rods? Powdered metal? The crank also, cast of forged etc? Alot I don't know about the engine internals. Both can take quite a beating before reaching their limit in some engines, Im just very curious. In my opinion, in the scheme of things a custom forged rotating assembly that can be rebilable and take serious abuse is not totally outrageous compared to the already outrageous prices of just a factory rotating assembly kit... I just want to find out how much power can we get until we got to worry about the engines stock limits.. Then got from there. I'd really like to find out, but I got to get my butt back stateside first haha..