It was a cooler day here in TX and my 233K mi CRD started normally and then died as I took off from driveway. Cranked but would not start. Scan code was P0093 "massive fuel leak". Well, there was no fuel dripping to ground, and no fuel leaking at heater connectors. No diesel fuel seepage seen. Oil level OK.

I reset the error code (via Autozone OBDII/Brake free rental) and then manualy pumped the fuel head for many pumps - and then whoo-la - diesel leakage problem observed oozing at fuel filter gasket connection. Fuel filter turned out to be quite loose and after tightening her back up and a few more manual pumps, Libby then started up after a few cranks with no issue. $0 fix .

Hope this helps somebody!

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2006 KJ Sport CRD 4x4
260K+
GDE Ecotune, Mishimoto Intercooler, Etecno plugs, Optima Red Top, EVIC

If the problem reoccurs again, pull the filter and check if you somehow got 2 of the small inner round gaskets on the threaded pipe the filter screws onto. I know, it sounds weird, but you wouldn't be the first it's happened to.

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'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770

After that "free fix" for a loose fuel filter a few weeks ago, Libby is now 'sucking air' with diesel oozing through the well known fuel head heater connector with burned terminals observed. I am highly suspicious that the recommended practice of pumping the fuel head until hard with the bleeder screw tight, and then loosening the bleeder screw to observe any air until pure fuel is a mistake. My feeling is that the pumping to hard/high pressure before opening the bleed screw can cause the fuel heater connector to rupture due to the much higher than normal operating pressures after pumping to hard. Why? I never had any air in fuel head issues nor any need to use any fuel head pumping in the 2+ years of ownership (56K mile of ownership, 233K on vehicle now), and once I started pumping and bleeding, the infamous fuel head connector leak issue with burnt connector surfaced. Coincidence? I think probably not. New fuel head now on its way... Does anyone have a low pressure fuel bleed method? I am thinking it should be bled more like brakes (loosen bleed screw, pump and hold down, then tighten bleed screw and release pump). Thank you.

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2006 KJ Sport CRD 4x4
260K+
GDE Ecotune, Mishimoto Intercooler, Etecno plugs, Optima Red Top, EVIC

You need to install an in-tank lift fuel pump like so many owners have done.
Air in fuel issues are cured forever and any leaks will be evident very quickly as fuel will leak out instead of air being sucked in.
Next to EGR removal, installing an in-tank lift pump is the second most popular mod on these vehicles and well worth the money.
See this:> viewtopic.php?f=5&t=26385

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Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount
98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve