EMERGENCY ROAD SIDE HELP

Adanac · **Joined:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:30 am **Posts:** 22

Looking for help. Just lost all engine power and am on side of the road.

Symptoms:

- sudden loss of power and oil light came on. Stopped. Turned key off then on. Jeep started. Drove about .5 km and it died again. Won't start at all now.
- have fuel so not that unless gauge is off
- with key in start position oil and engine lights r both on.

If anyone has ideas to get me going or if I need tow, email me @ scndrl@hotmail.com

Thx in advance.

Adanac

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:35 pm

check oil - but remember it won't drain down for at least 30 minutes.
but there should be something there.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:41 pm

other thing - pump fuel filter pump - see if it's solid - or does it have an air bubble

AJN · **Joined:** Tue Oct 19, 2010 12:42 am **Posts:** 53

After verifying oil in the crankcase, purge air out of the fuel line.

Open the hood, locate the fuel filter mounted next the the brake booster, press the pump repeatedly until it gets hard to press. May need to open the valve in the bottom of the filter to purge any water that may also have collected in the filter.

boilermaker2 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 05, 2011 12:32 am

I agree with AJN's last post w/re to air or fuel in the line. Assuming it works, you should have another llight on dash if their is water in the filter assembly. It is most likely air. While pumping/ make sure fuel does not squirt/seep out of the heater plug just above the filter.

Let us know when you are up and going.

Boilermaker2

painemann · **Joined:** Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:02 pm **Posts:** 607

they already said the most common stuff that would do that but you might want to wiggle the large wiring harness behind the alternator. Mine got rubbed through and cause shut downs.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sat Mar 05, 2011 1:19 pm

Change your fuel filter and bleed the air, then restart.

SLS · **Posted:** Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:28 pm

Soooooooooooooo! Adanac
Did you ever get started?
Are you still out there?
What was the problem and where were you? Was this a gelling issue?
Don't leave us hanging

Adanac · **Joined:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:30 am **Posts:** 22

Hi there,

Well I am at home. No luck getting the Jeep started and had it towed to the local Jeep dealer. They can't get at it this weekend due to work loads. So Monday at the earliest.

I have been reading some of your posts and thanks very much for the help some of you sent me! It got cold quick once the sun went down (-26c last night). Luckily I pack extra warm clothes for such these cases!

If I recall when I was pumping the primer, it had little to no resistance. So I am guessing there is air in there some where? I will do some more searches on the tech page about it and bleeding the air out.

I talked to the guy I just bought this jeep from and he claims never had an issue with it quitting like that. Mind you, this Jeep spent the last year out in lower mainland BC just outside of Vancouver and now it is 3600' higher in Calgary where it is about 20c colder. I am guessing that I may be dealing with some water/moisture issues as well.

I will advise how things go.

Again, thanks for your input. Good to know you guys are out there.

Cheers,

Adanac.
:JEEPIN:

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sat Mar 05, 2011 5:32 pm

if it has the original fuel head - odds are the fuel heater is leaking a lot of air in.
they make a replacement fuel head ~$100 if you order/replace it yourself - dealerships are a lot more.

hope that's it - easiest fix.

flman · **Posted:** Sat Mar 05, 2011 5:41 pm

Adanac wrote:

If I recall when I was pumping the primer, it had little to no resistance. So I am guessing there is air in there some where? I will do some more searches on the tech page about it and bleeding the air out.

:JEEPIN:

I had that problem and had to replace the fuel head to fix it. In the mean time I removed the top banjo bolt and pour fuel in to prime it as a temporary fix.

SLS · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2011 1:07 pm

Thanks for the update. Please keep us posted.
I had to convert the temperature (-26c) you had mentioned. At -14.8 degree Fahrenheit which would be even greater if the wind was blowing.
I carry a bottle of AMSOIL Diesel Recovery for situations like this, in case I need to dissolve gelled fuel, it will thaw frozen fuel filters and you can add the rest to the fuel tank. Gelling could definitely be an issue at sub zero temperatures.
I have seen a number of discussions on the gelling issue.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2011 5:31 pm

SLS wrote:

At -14.8 degree Fahrenheit which would be even greater if the wind was blowing.

Wind chill does not affect inanimate objects.

SLS · **Posted:** Tue Mar 08, 2011 10:36 am

That is correct the only effect wind chill has on inanimate objects, such as car radiators and fuel lines, is to shorten the amount of time for the object to cool. The inanimate object will not cool below the actual air temperature. Windchill affects things that are warmer than the air, and makes them cool faster than if the wind were not blowing, so in that respect it can affect inanimate objects.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 2:37 am

SLS wrote:

That is correct the only effect wind chill has on inanimate objects, such as car radiators and fuel lines, is to shorten the amount of time for the object to cool. The inanimate object will not cool below the actual air temperature. Windchill affects things that are warmer than the air, and makes them cool faster than if the wind were not blowing, so in that respect it can affect inanimate objects.

Thank you for being educated enough to understand this, I feel like I am constantly fighting people who think that because the wind chill was -20, and the air temp was 10, that their vehicle was -20 when they started it.

That and the difference between "advice" and "advise", and "there", "their" and "they're".

But I'll restrain my grammer Nazi now.

Adanac · **Joined:** Fri Jan 14, 2011 12:30 am **Posts:** 22

Well the results are in. Turns out that there was a couple of issues. The first being the fuel filter was loose and allow air into the system. As I understand it, this caused an incorrect reading in the fuel gauge which lead me to just running out of fuel. The previous owner never took the fuel below 1/4 of a tank. I was somewhere between 1/4 and 1/8 a tank when it quit. So the filter was tightened and the system bled and my first stop on the way home was the gas station.

Just wondering how others find their fuel indications? Do you get a fuel low light? Does temp and outside air pressure (diff between sea level and 3600') make a difference on how this indication system works? The dealer did seem to think that it would and recommended that I should keep her @ or above 1/4 a tank.

Being a pilot, I like to know how much use I can get out of my machine with regards to fuel and operational range, so being capped at 1/4 of a tank seems a bit restrictive.

Also, is it normal for the filter to loosen over time? Or was the last filter not installed correctly?

Thanks again everyone. Will be posting pics of my new wheels soon.

Cheers,

Adanac.
:JEEPIN:

PhoenixCRD · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 1:47 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

Thank you for being educated enough to understand this, I feel like I am constantly fighting people who think that because the wind chill was -20, and the air temp was 10, that their vehicle was -20 when they started it.

That and the difference between "advice" and "advise", and "there", "their" and "they're".

But I'll restrain my grammer Nazi now.

And the difference between "then" and "than" and of course pronouncing it "irregardless" :roll:

sorry, had to vent

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Adanac wrote:

Well the results are in. Turns out that there was a couple of issues. The first being the fuel filter was loose and allow air into the system. As I understand it, this caused an incorrect reading in the fuel gauge which lead me to just running out of fuel. The previous owner never took the fuel below 1/4 of a tank. I was somewhere between 1/4 and 1/8 a tank when it quit. So the filter was tightened and the system bled and my first stop on the way home was the gas station.

Just wondering how others find their fuel indications? Do you get a fuel low light? Does temp and outside air pressure (diff between sea level and 3600') make a difference on how this indication system works? The dealer did seem to think that it would and recommended that I should keep her @ or above 1/4 a tank.

Being a pilot, I like to know how much use I can get out of my machine with regards to fuel and operational range, so being capped at 1/4 of a tank seems a bit restrictive.

Also, is it normal for the filter to loosen over time? Or was the last filter not installed correctly?

Thanks again everyone. Will be posting pics of my new wheels soon.

Cheers,

Adanac.
:JEEPIN:

The fuel filter most likely was not installed correctly. Is your fuel head the updated version from Mopar? The new design solves a potential air leak path in the fuel heater circuit. You should be able to run all the way to E and beyond if necessary unless the sending unit in the fuel tank is messed up. The tank has a 'bathtub' inside to keep fuel near the sending unit and the sending unit will hold fuel for a while on a steep incline. The standard Jeep test is to ensure the engine stays running on a 30% incline even with only 2-3 gallons of fuel in the tank.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Mar 09, 2011 4:31 pm

Adanac - to answer your questions. Yes there is a low fuel light, just above the fuel gauge on the left of the dash (look for it to light briefly when you first turn on the ignition) and it is supposed to come on when there is about 2.3gal left. There is no way your fuel filter should loosen over time if it was installed AND tightened properly. If you don't have the new fuel head get it (http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... st/76.page). The head and harness cost about $80 but that gets you a new fuel filter in the package.

That said I cannot understand why a loose filter would cause an incorrect fuel gauge reading as the fuel gauge sending unit simply measures the level of fuel in the tank and is not in anyway connected with the filter. Having come from the diesel days when running out of fuel often ment a trip to the shop to bleed air out of the system I've never tested how correct the low fuel light is and would never run lower than 1/4 tank on the open road unless I had positive knowledge of the next diesel station. I wish I knew the actual capacity of the fuel tank but I don't (FSM says 19.5 gal/owner's manual says 20.5 and neither include fuel in the filler neck) because if I did I'd say fill the tank all the way up to the cap; drive until you hit 1/4 tank; refill and see if the 1/4 reading on the gauge is accurate. I suspect, based on other vehicles, that the fuel gauge reading is adjustable with a dealer scan tool such that if the warning light is not coming on soon enough that can be fixed.

mungewell · **Joined:** Tue Jan 11, 2011 6:04 pm **Posts:** 48

Adanac wrote:

Well the results are in. Turns out that there was a couple of issues. The first being the fuel filter was loose and allow air into the system. As I understand it, this caused an incorrect reading in the fuel gauge which lead me to just running out of fuel.

Glad to hear that it was just a minor glitch... welcome to the 'club' by the way.

Now there's another CRD in Alberta, I'll have to keep an eye out for you ;-)

Simon.

EMERGENCY ROAD SIDE HELP

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