Well......Had to be towed to the transmission shop

Hydraulic Jack · **Posted:** Tue Mar 22, 2011 5:08 pm

It just quit going in any direction.........He hasnt had a chance to get it on the hoist but when he was pushing it in the engine died and it was making noise out of the bell housing.......Has anyone had a Suncoast TC come apart on them??? He thinks this may be the problem.........I'll know more tomorrow.....HJ

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Mar 22, 2011 5:10 pm

Keep us posted :POPCORN:

flman · **Posted:** Tue Mar 22, 2011 6:33 pm

Loose TC bolts?

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Wed Mar 23, 2011 7:36 am

flman wrote:

Loose TC bolts?

X2 It's happened to several and not just on SunCoast tc's :dizzy:

The Euro TC's have been coming with bolts that have blue locktite already applied :SOMBRERO:

Hydraulic Jack · **Posted:** Thu Mar 24, 2011 4:34 pm

Bolts....And he did use the red locktite....Maybe not torqued right?...So no money out of my pocket.........Still in the shop tho..........I want my baby back! HJ

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Fri Mar 25, 2011 8:56 pm

Make sure he uses Red Loctite and new grade 8 bolts.
Make sure the flex plate did not crack, it should ring like a bell if you tap it with a hammer. Can't tell you what the note is but it does sound like a crabby bell, but not like a cracked bell.

Hydraulic Jack · **Posted:** Sat Mar 26, 2011 7:29 pm

Here's what he did....HJ

"After reviewing the bolts that sun cost provided and observing the depth and threads in the converter, I'm convinced this is faulty by design, or at least can be improved.
I spoke to someone at sun coast, explaining what happened and asked if it was alright to re drill 4 new holes rather than trying to helicoil the existing damaged holes. They assured me that it was ok. We decided to use a larger diameter bolt. The original is a fine thread 1/4"? bolt, and the depth did not go deep enough into the converter. The holes in the flywheel from the factory are much larger. I had 4 3/8 fine threaded holes machined onto the converter. I attached some pictures so you can get a idea of the damaged and improved holes. We machined the bolts to get maximum depth into the converter, but sill have plenty of clearance as not to bottom out (this step is important).
If you look closely at the pictures, you can see the area of missing thread and remaining undamaged thread, and how little the bolts go into the converter. I suspect the material on the back of the converter is much softer in hardness, than the material used on a stock torqueconverter. This is probably why you read on line (I am assuming you read this) to use "red" locktite. I suspect others have experienced the same problem."

sota · **Joined:** Fri Aug 07, 2009 7:44 pm **Posts:** 379

sounds like you got a shop there with some brains in their skulls. hopefully you buy them a case for their troubles.

flman · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 6:52 am

Hydraulic Jack wrote:

If you look closely at the pictures, you can see the area of missing thread and remaining undamaged thread, and how little the bolts go into the converter. I suspect the material on the back of the converter is much softer in hardness, than the material used on a stock torqueconverter. This is probably why you read on line (I am assuming you read this) to use "red" locktite. I suspect others have experienced the same problem."

Wheres the pictures? Do we go with our imagination on this one? :jester:

Hydraulic Jack · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 10:53 am

Here ya go...HJ

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Mar 28, 2011 8:22 pm

Hydraulic Jack wrote:

Here's what he did....HJ

"After reviewing the bolts that sun cost provided and observing the depth and threads in the converter, I'm convinced this is faulty by design, or at least can be improved.
I spoke to someone at sun coast, explaining what happened and asked if it was alright to re drill 4 new holes rather than trying to helicoil the existing damaged holes. They assured me that it was ok. We decided to use a larger diameter bolt. The original is a fine thread 1/4"? bolt, and the depth did not go deep enough into the converter. The holes in the flywheel from the factory are much larger. I had 4 3/8 fine threaded holes machined onto the converter. I attached some pictures so you can get a idea of the damaged and improved holes. We machined the bolts to get maximum depth into the converter, but sill have plenty of clearance as not to bottom out (this step is important).
If you look closely at the pictures, you can see the area of missing thread and remaining undamaged thread, and how little the bolts go into the converter. I suspect the material on the back of the converter is much softer in hardness, than the material used on a stock torqueconverter. This is probably why you read on line (I am assuming you read this) to use "red" locktite. I suspect others have experienced the same problem."

Original bolts are 5/16" NF Grade 8, 3/8" should work as long as Loctite is used.
Judging by the pics, looks like the original bolts were installed dry like the flawed FSM says to do.
When I did my SunCoast upgrade, I tested the original torque converter welded on tabs, they were mild carbon steel, just like the steel used on the Sonax front cover SunCoast uses.
I also tested the original bolts for the yield torque where the bolt torque would not go any higher. I posted the results but can't remember the value.
Holes in the flex plate are larger to allow the torque converter to center its' self with the slip in hub that goes into the center of the flex plate. Over sized holes are very common, not a screw up.

Well......Had to be towed to the transmission shop

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