MOTOR MOUNT REPLACEMENT Help needed

FormerlyBankNote4x4 · **Posted:** Sat Nov 20, 2010 10:21 pm

Flman and everyone else: I think with information on my questions below I can get this done:

1. Is it best to jack the engine up from the pan? Could you pull up on the engine with an engine crane instead?

2. Did you have any issues with wiring on top of the tranny when lifting the engine?

3. Could you do it on the ground? Or on small ramps under the front tires?

4. What did you have to remove to get access?

5. What tools did you need?

6. Are there any other parts advisable to replace associated with the mounts?

7. What's a good source for the parts?

I think, and really hope, this is what the problem has been with my crd. So if you, or anyone, could give some insight so I can do this I would really apprecia :JEEPIN:

te it!!!

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Sun Nov 21, 2010 12:09 am

Great questions. Add to that where you bought them.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sun Nov 21, 2010 8:37 am

I bought mine at Mopar Parts America about $50-60 each with shipping.

when GDE's website comes back up they have step x step for the Passenger side
(this is a link to the link)
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=607100#p607100

I'd do the drivers side at the same time - because I had to loosen the passenger side to get enough space to pull the old one out.

I did the jack under the engine with a 2x4 to spread the force.

and I did get the Harbor Freight ratchet - it was cheap, available and easier.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=616868#p616868

I did have to pull the front skid - however I have enough room under mine that I don't need ramps

flman · **Posted:** Sun Nov 21, 2010 9:45 am

Did mine yesterday,

on ramps

disconnected battery ground

loosened fan shroud so it could move, left fan on

removed skids

removed top mount bolts

removed lower mount bolts

used 4x4 lumber and a bottle jack to raise engine

pushed the mounts upward to clear the shorter bottom stud

tilted the bottom on the mount forward towards the grill till I got enough clearance to pull the top stud out

it was tough to turn the nut on the lower left mount even with a universal joint, I could not turn it a complete turn

I was going to look at the GDE write up, but his website is down, so I got some info with a search on lost

This thread was helpful viewtopic.php?f=5&t=49882&hilit=engine+mounts :google:

Got mounts here http://www.moparonlineparts.com/
Part numbers left 52129011AD, right 52129374AC

FormerlyBankNote4x4 · **Posted:** Wed Dec 15, 2010 9:16 am

Thanks guys! I got mine replaced last weekend, it took long enough that I got sick from the kerosene heater but it was worth it since the passenger side had failed. I wanted to give some feedback on the experience to help others that don't want to pay for careless labor.

I'm pretty sure the mounts are the same on both sides except for the heat shield which can be transferred easily on the passenger side so save yourself the money and get 2 lefts.

The. Indexable socket driver from Harbor Freight worked perfect on the drivers side lower bolt.

The torque spec on GDE's write up should be 82, but the write up is excellent and pretty much how I did it exactly.

Other tools needed include 3 long socket driver extension bars, a deep 18mm socket, I used a round joint thing from Harbor Freight that is like a universal joint but less flexibility.
The block of wood needs to be fairly small to fit in the space when raised- a 2x4 cut to maybe 4 or 5 inches long.

To get at the top nuts I removed the CAC hoses on both sides, unbolted the turbo vacuum actuator, power steering reservoir, and removed the air filter box on the passenger side, and the battery and popped the large bundle of wires next to it loose on the drivers.

It seems my passenger side mount fractured along the bottom and had the death rattle, I didn't cut into it but am pretty sure the fluid is gone so the fracture must be fully through the rubber.
The driver side was neither fractured or had the rattle but since I had the replacement and it did show some wear(small cracks) I replaced.

I shopped 4 or 5 online mopar dealers to get both mounts for $85 with shipping. If I remeber right the passenger side was 10-15 more.

Symptoms were excessive vibration in the steering wheel and shaking and bouncing while driving. And a clunk sometimes when shifting into gear, and sometimes when the trans shifted. I Couldn't see any visual signs of failure when inspecting before removal and the vibration didn't seem worse in drive or reverse.

Much better now, and I can add one more auto procedure to my resume and move on to the next thing on the never ending list of issues: putting the dial indicator to the rotors and hubs and hoping the hubs are slightly angled so I can shim the vibration out of the front end.

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

We will update our engine mount proceedure to reflect the torque discrepancy on the engine mounts. Strangely enough, the 2005 KJ service manual states 82 ft*lb for the torque on the upper and lower through bolt nuts and the 2006 KJ service manual states the nuts should be torqued to 40 ft*lb. Not sure why the two service manuals are different, but the bolts are large enough to handle the 82 ft*lb of torque. Thanks for the heads up on our replacement proceedure.

CRD Joe · **Posted:** Sun Dec 26, 2010 6:41 pm

How do you know whether youre having problems with your mounts?

flman · **Posted:** Sun Dec 26, 2010 6:46 pm

CRD Joe wrote:

How do you know whether youre having problems with your mounts?

Clunking when going from reverse to forward, noisy drive train.

http://www.greendieselengineering.com/f ... t/115.page

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Tue Dec 28, 2010 2:55 pm

CRD Joe wrote:

How do you know whether youre having problems with your mounts?

I just changed mine and it raised my engine almost 2 inches. I've been listening to them rattle for about 30K miles trying to decide whether it was the mounts. Finally my engine began hitting the cross member when I went over bumps and that made me decide to change them both. As it turned out both were bad. It may be possible to determine bad mounts from the distance between the cross member and the oil pan. Mine was about 1/16 inch shy of two inches clearance after changing them, and about 1/4 inch of clearance with the bad ones. I don't know whether they settle over time or just when failed though. Both of my bad mounts rattled when shook after removal.

dieseldoesit · **Posted:** Sun May 01, 2011 9:55 am

I just replaced mine last night. It wasn't too bad, except for getting to that bottom drivers side nut. Dangit that sucked!

One thing to note for those that are doing both, it is best to only do one side at a time, leaving the other side completely attached. I was trying to go fast and doing both at the same time, but it is difficult to get the engine high enough when both mounts are undone at the same time.

Hope this helps.

edit. I should note that my passenger side motor mount makes a clanking noise when shaking it. It was definitely bad. The other mount, done for good measure it seems.

europachris · **Posted:** Mon May 02, 2011 9:23 am

dieseldoesit wrote:

I just replaced mine last night. It wasn't too bad, except for getting to that bottom drivers side nut. Dangit that sucked!

One thing to note for those that are doing both, it is best to only do one side at a time, leaving the other side completely attached. I was trying to go fast and doing both at the same time, but it is difficult to get the engine high enough when both mounts are undone at the same time.

Hope this helps.

There is a little bracket that mounts on the left side of the front diff - 3 small bolts that go into the diff housing and 1 bigger bolt through a rubber bushing that mounts to the frame. Removing that bracket just barely allowed me to get to the bottom nut on the drivers side with two 10" extensions and a impact universal joint. Otherwise it looked like I'd have to get out the gas can and a match and make myself a Car-B-Que.

+1 on the one-side-at-a-time process. I started out with both loose and that wasn't gonna work. I didn't loosen the fan shroud, though, and that is where I found I ran out of clearance first...fortunately BEFORE I kept jacking and made bad crunching noises.

MOTOR MOUNT REPLACEMENT Help needed

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