Front End Clunking While Turning...

Billy M · **Posted:** Tue Oct 27, 2015 10:44 am

I've read a BUNCH of threads on this. I've heard everything from motor mounts, sway bar, CVs, front driveshaft, ball joints, steering rack, etc.

Here is what I have. I installed new wheels/tires, brakes/rotors, L&R CV axles (old boots were torn, axles were fine), L&R lower ball joints and a small clevis lift on the front end. Not that it matters, but I installed new brakes/rotors, 2" spacer lift, and wheels/tires on the rear. I have an ugly clunking in the front end while coming into a corner hard (braking while turning seem to aggravate it more). I can turn easy, run in circles all day, not a sound. It's a multiple/constant clunk when it happens. I removed the front driveshaft (rear CV needed replaced). The front driveshaft had the usual disintegrated boot/dirty CV syndrome. Removing the driveshaft did fix the 3-4 light clicks right before coming to a complete stop. I have a replacement CV I'm installing on the existing driveshaft. I replaced the motor mounts a couple years ago. I find it hard to believe it's the sway bar, as it isn't moving up/down in a constant G-force turn. I'm going to check the motor mount bolts. UCA's looked/felt fine (looked newer, like they have been replaced at some point). The front left CV at the diffy did seem to have a "catch" while spinning the wheel with the front driveshaft installed. That has seemed to go away with the removal of the driveshaft. I was hoping that was my clunk, but it wasn't. Thoughts, suggestions? Thanks all in advance.

Billy

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Oct 27, 2015 11:42 am

I had a clunk coming from my front suspension.
Found the LF lower clevis bolt was loose.
Tightened it up, no more clunk.

So any of those bolts, sway bar, clevis, shock mounts, etc., will cause a clunking noise if loose.

Billy M · **Posted:** Tue Oct 27, 2015 12:17 pm

Thanks flash. I guess I'll go through and double check everything. It can't hurt. I'm going to loosen and re-tighten all the sway bar hardware while I'm at it. I'll confirm everything is to spec. I have a busy week, so I may not get to it until this weekend. I'll post my results.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Oct 27, 2015 12:33 pm

Try the transmission motor mount, it is a big rubber pad above the crossmember. A cheap way to fix it for a test is to get a couple of the 2" square rubber "furniture foot pads" from Home Depot (in the aisle with the casters) and jack up the transmission tail housing an inch or so to flex the mount, and shove them in the space that appears.

If the noise is gone, then that is your answer: The transmission mount is shot. You can either leave the pads in place or replace the whole mount.

Billy M · **Posted:** Tue Oct 27, 2015 3:16 pm

Thanks geordi. I'll check that as well. I like the "bad noises" comment in your sig! I'll take these noises over engine noises any day! Those tend to get reaaaly expensive!

Billy M · **Posted:** Mon Nov 02, 2015 11:03 am

Update...

The only suspect thing I found was the lower shock/strut/clevis bushing was pretty worn out. Could this be causing the clunking? Both sides were bad, driver's side worse than passenger's. The center of the bolt was very close to the outer bottom of the bushing/hole. I took a pic, but this site has no efficient way of uploading pics. I may replace the lower controls arms, as the other 2 bushings are probably worn as well. They must not be too bad though. I just had it aligned 500 miles ago.

Billy M · **Posted:** Fri Jan 15, 2016 1:28 pm

Update again...

My Libby has 146K miles. The front end parts had some wear so I didn't mind changing them to try to eliminate this horrible clunking. I replaced the CV shafts, front diffy (had a "catch" in it), lower control arms (uppers look to have been replaced at some point), sway bar links, rear CV on front driveshaft, ball joints, rear end wishbone (bad bushings), and brakes/rotors. I checked the motor mounts. They were tight (and replaced 40K miles ago). The transmission mounts were fine and steering rack was checked also. I retorqued the sway bar as well.

It's still clunking like heck (no better, actually a little worse), now randomly doing it going in a straight line down the road over 45 MPH. I've had it on the rack at my mechanic's shop. We both visually checked/pushed/pulled everything under it and everything looked good. He worked at a Jeep dealership before he started his own shop, so he's very familiar with Libbys and CRDs. This has him baffled as well.

My question is, can a motor mount fail internally and cause this much sound and clunk? My Libby would rattle a little at shutdown before I replaced the motor mounts, but nothing as bad as this. Front shocks would another guess.?? You can feel it in the steering wheel and floorboards when it does it. The clunking is very loud and transmits well. It's definitely worse while cornering hard, but doesn't do it at all cornering gently. I'm running out of options and sanity. :banghead:

Diver1430 · **Posted:** Sun Jan 17, 2016 9:52 pm

Had similar on crd1. Ck bracket on exhaust pipe. It will hit frame when turning. Sounds like it's coming from engine compartment.

CGman · **Posted:** Sun Jan 17, 2016 11:07 pm

UCA bushings can do that after changes to the front end height. Bolts need to be loosened until front end has full wt on it, then retighten, otherwise they can bind.

Rustydiesel · **Joined:** Thu Dec 17, 2015 11:44 am **Posts:** 1

Billy,
MY 06 CRD (65k miles) has a clunk mostly when turning left. Needs to be hard enough to have at least a little body lean. Had it up on a hoist and all was tight. Mechanic was stumped. Watching closely for your results.

Billy M · **Posted:** Sun Feb 07, 2016 8:23 pm

Update...I replaced the front shocks. Definitely worn out, but not the cause of my clunking. I'll check the exhaust bracket and UCAs. I'm busy this coming week. I'll post my results after. Thanks again for the suggestions. My sanity and liver is suffering.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sun Feb 07, 2016 9:26 pm

I finely narrowed down my clunk last year to the right upper ball joint! Replaced both upper control arms and noise is gone... :BANANA:

It was very difficult to track down the small amount of movement in the joint that was causing the clunk every time the tire made any sudden movement while going down the road. I first thought it was the boomerang arm on top of the rear axle making the noise and replaced it.. :banghead:

Billy M · **Posted:** Wed Feb 17, 2016 11:45 am

Update...My motor mounts looked a little "squatty" so I thought I would try replacing them, although they only had a little over 40Kish miles on them. I replaced the transmission mount at the same time, as it was showing plenty of wear as well. My old motor mounts were a full 1/4" shorter than the new mounts. Amazing how much wear in 40Kish miles. No change in the clunking though. The UCAs are the only thing I haven't changed. I lifted the Jeep under the LCA on both sides (to keep it at a normal ride height) and hit around the tire with an 8lb sledge hammer while holding on to the UCA. I felt 0 movement/contact/looseness in the UCA. It was tight as can be. The UCA is the only part I haven't replaced, so I may go ahead and try it.

It's current state...no noises while engine/driveline has stress applied to it. I can accelerate and drive down the highway just fine (as long as my foot is slightly in the throttle). Not a peep. As soon as I let off the go pedal, brake, or turn hard (while not accelerating), random clunking. I would describe it as someone randomly tapping/hitting my firewall with my 8lb sledge. Very loud, very noticeable, very annoying.

WWDiesel...the outer bushings on the wishbone on the rear axle were shot on mine. My mechanic had just swapped out a rear end on a Libby and gave me the good used one off of that. I swapped it out on mine. I did notice a difference in handling and ride, but it wasn't my clunking problem either.

I'm taking it to my mechanic's shop on Thursday to give it another look on the rack in his shop. As I've said before, he is a former Jeep dealership mechanic and is very familiar with the most of the issues the Libbys had. His is just as stumped as I at the moment, and has been very helpful as he wants to find the culprit for his own knowledge. I'll post an update next week. In the meantime...alcohol will help. :5SHOTS:

Late update...I just took it for a test drive down the highway. Clunking like heck going in a straight line on smooth highway pavement (minimal-suspension movement). I'll post next week what I come up with.

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

I got the clunk when after I replaced my pax side axle (cv half-shaft or whatever you call it). I think I got a gasser CV half-shaft which is a bit longer than a stock CRD one from what I've read. Regardless, my clunk occurred after I replaced it.

VAdave · **Posted:** Tue Feb 23, 2016 2:40 pm

I am having the same issue on my 05 CRD with 130000 miles. Turning left at 35-50mph is the most pronounced clunking. I looked around and couldn't find anything so I took it to Les Schwab and their mechanic didn't notice anything either. I am curious as to what fixes this issue.

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thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Feb 23, 2016 4:15 pm

Is the noise coming from a specific side, or its from the center? I'm also tracing a clunk on mine on the front left/driver, sounds like the lower ball joint is getting loose, and it only does it on turns or when getting on the driveway, if I brake lightly, it doesn't.

Will also check the bolts, just in case one got loose... I did replace all front end suspension couple years ago. So far I blamed the caliper, but I'm not 100% sure that's it. I removed the rubber boots inside and thought the clunk came from the caliper moving around...

Billy M · **Posted:** Wed Mar 02, 2016 10:15 am

Well, my mechanic and I have narrowed it down to the new CV axles I installed. They seem to be binding and causing the clunk. We put it in 4WD and drove it around the parking lot at his shop. It popped and raised all sorts of he!! when turning. It did the same clunking as before when driving straight.

I've read some threads on aftermarket axles being too long. I think this may be the case. I can feel bumps in the roads more than I could before, even with all the new suspension components. The axles may be compressed too far, causing these issues.?? I still have my OEM axles. I'm going to compare when I get these out. I talked to my local parts shop and they are going to let me return these axles. At least I won't be out too much money for replacements. I just have my time in it to do the work. At least I can do this stuff myself. I pity the person that would have had to pay a shop to do all that I have done to this!

Side note...I did removed the clevis lift, rear lift, and installed my old factory wheels/tires to eliminate any possible driveline angle/stress issues. Still does it.

So...what axles have you guys had luck with? Hopefully this works!!

Quick update...I just called my local NAPA. They said they have no CV axles available for my Liberty at the present time. Savage has only one side available. WTH?! Are others having the same issue as I am?

tomasnc · **Posted:** Thu Mar 03, 2016 11:24 pm

Billy,

I am finding the same issue here in NC. If you go back several years on this forum people were using NAPA rebuilt axles. Cardone was their supplier. Cardone has no rebuilt axles.
I have heard that OReillys has some rebuilt ones on hand. The Chinese new axles are suspect indeed. I have to replace the intermediate axle and the passenger side CV axle. The axle I have is sadly import. I am going to try and find a domestic 6 ball CV to go back in my CRD. The Chinese are selling 3 ball joints.

Thanks and good luck.

Tom

Billy M · **Posted:** Fri Mar 04, 2016 3:00 pm

Thanks Tom. I called the dealer and they only had one side available as well. They said they were on backorder to Chrysler and would be a week or so before they got them in. They recommended me to a driveline shop in Dayton, OH, that they use when axles are on backorder to them. They had some aftermarket axles in stock. I had them compare them to my old OEM axles. They were not the same length either! The shop is rebuilding my OEM axles for me. My axles weren't bad, the boots were torn and slinging grease. They are going to fix them up with new CVs. Hopefully this will fix the Libby. I'm really tired of wrenching on it.

Side note...I'm wondering if the dealer charges the same $317 per axle when they get the aftermarket ones from that driveline shop?! Hmmmmm??? Those aftermarket axles were $70 & $80. It doesn't make much difference when they don't fit!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 04, 2016 3:29 pm

Most shops don't realize that the V6 Liberty and the 4cly Liberties have different length front CV axles.
There are shops that specialize in rebuilding CV joints. If the local parts store can't get replacement CV axles take your old ones to a shop who can rebuild them for you.

Front End Clunking While Turning...

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