How To: CRD Timing Belt Replacement - NOW WITH VIDEO!

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Nov 20, 2012 11:22 pm

racertracer wrote:

FeedBack:

Excellent.

Now we need one on the glow plug replacement.

I would like to do more how-to videos, the more I make the more I can post on youtube and hopefully more views = more revenue from youtube ads. It's not much but its something!

Randy B · **Posted:** Sat Nov 24, 2012 8:05 am

Just had the time to watch all 5. Very nice Sir Sam

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat Nov 24, 2012 6:41 pm

Randy B wrote:

Just had the time to watch all 5. Very nice Sir Sam

Thanks for watching.

kjjet · **Posted:** Sat Nov 24, 2012 11:39 pm

The timing marks on the pump and cams where put there on the original NON CRD engine for pump timing to each injector and are not used for the CRD pumps. It will not hurt anything if its lined up or not. As stated in the manual.

kjjet · **Posted:** Sun Nov 25, 2012 12:22 am

FYI... There is a timing mark on the crank next to the bolt. If you turn the engine by hand untill he cam pins line up and the crank timing mark is at 3:00 which is 90 deg past top dead center. Then the pin for the flywheel will line up correctly.

The crank timing mark is a good thing to allways make sure its at 90 deg past TDC or 3:00!

Hexus · **Posted:** Sun Nov 25, 2012 9:04 am

I watched the videos and followed Sam, many thanks. I'll be delving into this soon.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Nov 26, 2012 12:15 am

kjjet wrote:

FYI... There is a timing mark on the crank next to the bolt. If you turn the engine by hand untill he cam pins line up and the crank timing mark is at 3:00 which is 90 deg past top dead center. Then the pin for the flywheel will line up correctly.

The crank timing mark is a good thing to allways make sure its at 90 deg past TDC or 3:00!

Dude, this is news to me.......got a picture?

97SpecR · **Joined:** Sat Sep 22, 2012 12:17 pm **Posts:** 7

Its a good right up but why dont you guys show exactly how to do the t/b tensioner? I am literally doing mine right now, if I was to do the tensioner like you say, I get slop in the belt. I also pushed the tensioner upward (notche towards center of spring) and my belt went right on.

Just trying to figure out how this tensioner works.

Thanks,
Travis

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:35 pm

97SpecR wrote:

Its a good right up but why dont you guys show exactly how to do the t/b tensioner? I am literally doing mine right now, if I was to do the tensioner like you say, I get slop in the belt. I also pushed the tensioner upward (notche towards center of spring) and my belt went right on.

Just trying to figure out how this tensioner works.

Thanks,
Travis

What belt are you using. I have never had a "belt go right on" they always fight you to the last scraped knuckle.

arengant · **Posted:** Mon Feb 18, 2013 4:36 am

Sir Sam wrote:

97SpecR wrote:

Its a good right up but why dont you guys show exactly how to do the t/b tensioner? I am literally doing mine right now, if I was to do the tensioner like you say, I get slop in the belt. I also pushed the tensioner upward (notche towards center of spring) and my belt went right on.

Just trying to figure out how this tensioner works.

Thanks,
Travis

What belt are you using. I have never had a "belt go right on" they always fight you to the last scraped knuckle.

After releasing all the tension in the tensioner (rotating the cam lobe) and using your trick with the extra tooth on the crank pulley, my gates went on smoothly

Roostre · **Joined:** Sun Oct 24, 2010 3:57 pm **Posts:** 195

Did my timing belt and water pump today.

Wanted to say THANK YOU!!! for the work you put into this guide. Made my day a breeze.

103K and the belt still looked pretty good, but the water pump was seeping:

I owe you a cold frothy beverage of your choice.

Wyojake · **Joined:** Mon Apr 20, 2015 6:55 pm **Posts:** 2

Well just did a timing belt change as well as the waterpump/thermostat on my 05 crd. Soo if I'm out of time just a little will I be replacing rocker arms?

Steevo · **Posted:** Tue Apr 21, 2015 6:44 am

Depends on how much "just a little" is.

flman · **Posted:** Tue Apr 21, 2015 6:51 am

Sir Sam wrote:

So it looks like 60 or so people have watched or at least checked out all 5 parts of the video......any feedback for me?

I looked at the first one, why pull apart the front end of the vehicle, not really that tight in there once the fan and shroud are out of the way?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Apr 21, 2015 8:49 am

Some folks like to do that because it really opens things up to do the work. Some folks don't do that because there is adequate room once the fan and its shroud are out of the way.

Of course first time removal of the fan and its shroud is a real pain hence my typical recommendation is to do a fan shroud mod (easiest is cut shroud just below bolt tabs and throw away the bottom 1/2) before reinstalling it regardless of whether or not you take apart the front end stuff.

Also IIRC Sir Sam's intercooler had to come out for repair.

Wyojake · **Joined:** Mon Apr 20, 2015 6:55 pm **Posts:** 2

Steevo wrote:

Depends on how much "just a little" is.

I can get all three pins in but I have a bind on at least one of two pins. It's either a bind on exhaust cam or the flywheel. I will be loosening the cam gears tonight to try and get it a bit closer.

Thanks for all the info on the timing belt change fellas. Really good videos sir Sam. Saved me a lot of $$$$$. Priced at my local dealership for $3700.00 to change both the timing and serpentine belts/tensioners, rollers, waterpump, thermostat, and the fan clutch.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Apr 21, 2015 9:41 am

I would strongly recommend removing the CAC (intercooler) when doing a timing belt replacement and inspect it good for leaks and thoroughly wash and clean the insides. :wink:

If you do not have a ProVent or Racor filter in your CCV system, good changes are there will be oil accumulated in the bottom of the CAC. When I pulled mine for the first time in 100,000+ miles while doing the TB job, I drained about a pint of oil out of CAC. :shock:

To clean, I simply filled the CAC with a mixture of strong degreaser soap and hot water and let it soak overnight. Drained and flushed it good and then dried it out with air...
Of course I added a ProVent coalescing filter to stop the oil vapors from getting into the CAC and condensing. :idea:

kjdieselfever · **Joined:** Mon Oct 28, 2013 4:49 pm **Posts:** 24

WOW!! Very informative. Thank you very much.

How To: CRD Timing Belt Replacement - NOW WITH VIDEO!

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