How To: CRD Timing Belt Replacement - NOW WITH VIDEO!

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Wed Jul 18, 2012 11:36 pm

Racer,

It's Saturday, not tomorrow. Hope you can make that....

DOC

striperman36 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 19, 2012 12:56 pm

yes it's saturday 7/21, Rix has been on his honeymoon so he's totally distracted.

We are going to start around 0900 until wrenches down, we are right across from the Brewery so I hope we can finish in time to replenish the grog pitcher.

racertracer · **Posted:** Thu Jul 19, 2012 1:16 pm

I'll bring a few six packs along for good measure.

striperman36 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 21, 2012 8:57 am

I'll report back with the outcome :SOMBRERO:

striperman36 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 22, 2012 2:35 am

Two 2006 CRD's received their Sir Sam #2 timing belt treatment yesterday and today....

In attendance were the two patients with RacerTracer's and DOC4444's looking on for morale support. DOC4444 was also fully stocked with his fuller Miller set, FSM and all the published T-Belt writeups.

RixRam's tug and my Mule both are now members of the we dun it the Sir Sam way timing belt change, taking from the bumper back out, with the except of the a/c system to gain access and room to work on the Vmotori

Most of the work was straightforward, until

Understanding the use of the Miller locking bolts for the camshafts and the flywheel. Thank fully. Geordi still takes Racertracer calls of which there were too numerous to count until the process of locking the flywheel and the cams were fully understood.

Also use witness marks on cams, IP and crank. All four must line back up every 6 full rotations of the crank to insure correct placement.

Pulling slack out of the T-Belt in the correct location is a friggin B----H!!! Numerous trys were needed to get the slack in our out to get the belt and te above rotation working. Given enough time, Rixram aced it out and pulled both machines T-belts to a T.

You will have some serious pucker factor when you pull the key after you align the T-Belt. Which should do before you button it back up.

Bring enough coolant, I believe we both probably ran out about 2.5 - 3 gal of coolant with pulling the radiator, dropping the lower hose and cranking over the motor to validate the T-Belt alignment.

Once the T-Belts were completed, pulling it all back on and cranking it down was just a wrenchfest, make sure you store your bolts with the right part.

I also would tape those darn nuts into the radiator with tape next time to make sure the stay in.

My turbo input house was NOT degraded with oil and soot, I was able to reuse it

The minimum Miller tool are the 3 alignment bolts AND 9660 to tension the t-belt tensioner.

I also highly recommend arranging for someone how as done this before to be ON-HAND. Only with Geordi's generosity over the phone and Sir Sam's excellent written guidance were we even able to pull this off with DOC4444. RacerTracer, RixRam and I all having wrenches in our hands at times.

I cannot say enough about the total generosity and input of the people on this board, this is a great community. Thank you LOST for existing, I would NOT own this wonderful machine without this board in existence.

Thank you RacerTracer for driving 10 hours round trip to hang out, DOC4444 for having the patience to work with a NOOB like me and to my friend who I owe ALOT of beer to, RixRam, for not only working a 7-430 day but hangin in and buttoning both of us up when I couldn't get a friggin piece in and driving away happy at 0030 after locking down Newport BioDiesel.

I'm good for another 90K, after I do the rest of the stuff I need to do on this little Mule. But now I need to really really take a shower.

Striperman36

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 22, 2012 4:30 am

In the end, it's all about the people.

DOC

striperman36 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 22, 2012 8:24 am

DOC4444 wrote:

In the end, it's all about the people.

DOC

Indeed, thank you all.

ChooChooman74 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 22, 2012 8:37 am

Definitely wish I could have experienced it. Mine should be due by the end of fall.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jul 22, 2012 8:47 am

Thanks to Captain RixRam, Striperman36 and Doc444 for being part of the show, quality friendships were made yesterday.

The captain kept all of us on course and was the hands on mechaninc, Doc was the info guy, Striper attempted at wrenching, I was on the tech line with Geordi.

It was time well spent and a rewarding learning experience.

The Biodiesel Plant was state of the art and it was also a great learning experience.

Sorry we had no time for a beer break, but maybe we could all do that some other time after Striper fishing.

striperman36 · **Posted:** Sun Jul 22, 2012 9:19 am

racertracer wrote:

Thanks to Captain RixRam, Striperman36 and Doc444 for being part of the show, quality friendships were made yesterday.

The captain kept all of us on course and was the hands on mechaninc, Doc was the info guy, Striper attempted at wrenching, I was on the tech line with Geordi.

It was time well spent and a rewarding learning experience.

The Biodiesel Plant was state of the art and it was also a great learning experience.

Sorry we had no time for a beer break, but maybe we could all do that some other time after Striper fishing.

Oh yeah.. I have to work on my Johnson 90 today. Not happy with the trim. No beer till thats done and the truck totally checked out in full sun.

Rixram · **Posted:** Sun Jul 22, 2012 6:49 pm

striperman36 wrote:

racertracer wrote:

Thanks to Captain RixRam, Striperman36 and Doc444 for being part of the show, quality friendships were made yesterday.

The captain kept all of us on course and was the hands on mechaninc, Doc was the info guy, Striper attempted at wrenching, I was on the tech line with Geordi.

It was time well spent and a rewarding learning experience.

The Biodiesel Plant was state of the art and it was also a great learning experience.

Sorry we had no time for a beer break, but maybe we could all do that some other time after Striper fishing.

Oh yeah.. I have to work on my Johnson 90 today. Not happy with the trim. No beer till thats done and the truck totally checked out in full sun.

Fellas:
Thank you all very much for everything yesterday. Both Striper and I drove our respective rides home. That wouldn't have happened were it not for all the team effort. Again, thanks for being patient with me as I wasn't able to really do anything until I was done with the biodiesel production for the day, but that certainly didn't stop the 3 of you, and I am grateful.

As for my addition to the guide, I would add the Serp Belt Tensioner ID numbers, and make it be a recommended replacement. Or if I missed that in the guide, my apologies.

Sam: THANK YOU!

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 23, 2012 7:21 am

Rix,

So what condition did your serpentine belt tensioner end up being in when you installed it?

DOC

Rixram · **Posted:** Mon Jul 23, 2012 9:10 am

DOC4444 wrote:

Rix,

So what condition did your serpentine belt tensioner end up being in when you installed it?

DOC

It was a little crunchy. The engine has a metallic "ting" to it when operating. I also may need to reseat the bolts for my bell housing as well. I had a heckuva time getting those lined up straight. And since I'll need to replace the coupler for my alternator anyway, I just need it all to hold together long enough to get the replacement parts in. By the way, do you have the coupler and tensioner part numbers again? The post it note you had written them on fell into anti-freeze. Oops.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:51 am

I think it makes sense to go with a new alternator from Advance or Autozone for roughly $150. The tensioner is on the ID parts site. I am debating myself whether to go with Crown for $60 or Mopar for $260. I am not sure how hard it is to change the decoupler itself without the Miller tools. I got the part numbers by searching this site.

DOC

dupko · **Joined:** Mon Aug 13, 2012 7:12 am **Posts:** 1

DOC4444 wrote:

I think it makes sense to go with a new alternator from Advance or Autozone for roughly $150. The tensioner is on the ID parts site. I am debating myself whether to go with Crown for $60 or Mopar for $260. I am not sure how hard it is to change the decoupler itself without the Miller tools. I got the part numbers by searching this site.

DOC

MOPAR for 260$

PLS :ROTFL:

racertracer · **Posted:** Mon Aug 13, 2012 7:36 am

DOC4444 wrote:

I am not sure how hard it is to change the decoupler itself without the Miller tools.
DOC

Doc,

Some members were able to remove the decoupler with an impact wrench on the correct size hex key and a quick twist snap off.

R

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Fri Nov 16, 2012 2:23 pm

EDIT #3: There is a video now online! In 5 parts on youtube! It should take you through the process in a fair bit of detail.

CLICK ME!

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Nov 19, 2012 7:10 pm

So it looks like 60 or so people have watched or at least checked out all 5 parts of the video......any feedback for me?

xhizzous · **Posted:** Tue Nov 20, 2012 9:14 am

I did this job Saturday on my 06 with the help of jeepdan at his shop. I would never have been able to do it without his expertise and tools. It is definitely necessary to have someone that has done the job before.

We were able to do mine without taking out the radiator or front of the jeep although we did protect it with a couple layers of cardboard. If done this way you will need a mirror so you can see the timing mark on the fuel pump. It took us quite awhile to get it timed correctly as well. I guess you have to move the mark off on the fuel pump 1 tooth or 1/2 tooth ahead when you start cranking it so when the slack is removed between the crank and the fuel pump it ends up in time.

Something I will remember for the next one.

racertracer · **Posted:** Tue Nov 20, 2012 9:29 pm

FeedBack:

Excellent.

Now we need one on the glow plug replacement.

How To: CRD Timing Belt Replacement - NOW WITH VIDEO!

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